The factory blower is 1.0L so a 2.4L that puts out a cooler charge air is a very serious upgrade. Probably not worthy of street use. I would say a 1.6L would be about as big as you would want without having to do any serious block and internal work.

 

im anxious for a blower upgrade!! my buddy just got done with his KB 2.4 swap and the damn thing sounds like a jet!!

 

has anybody looked into twin charging with a paxton novi? this might be a viable solution considering they have reverse directional units. the only problem i've seen yet is my torque damper being in the way(sorry ahead of time if someone has allready posted a thread about this idea)

 

and then you'd have TWO superchargers stealing power from your engine in order to make power. Wouldn't make much sense. Although I could see swapping to a larger Novi unit and then exchanging the M62 for a custom upper plenum to bolt on in its place, leaving the aftercooler and probably making some more room for the Novi as well. With enough engineering to it, the plenum itself could be a power upgrade as well. Twincharging is a waste really... the only situation I see it making any sense is on something with awd wearing slicks because that seems to be the only way you'd be able to use all the low end it would give you. For the average street car/track racer, you never need full power below 4000-ish rpms anyway, so why go through all that effort to make power down there?

Bang for your buck, I think a whipple/lysholm would be the best idea for a blower swap. M90, well I think it would take a Gen 5 to be worth it and those are almost the cost of a whipple the last time i checked anyway.

 

nice write up

 

the twin screw whipple seems like the way to go.

 

The twin screw will make more power, esp. in the upper rpm's than the roots blower's in addition to keeping iat2 temps and heat soak down

 

Did this idea go anywhere or just die off?

 

+1 Id cut a hole in the finder if i had to

 

Actually a twin screw would heatsoak worse since it always compresses the air while a roots only compresses the air when the BPV is closed ie. while accelerating. It can be compensated by increasing the HE surface area by approx. 30% from what I have researched.

 

Hood needs to change
Throttle plate and adapter plate
Engine rebuild for power
New fuel system, recommend 70# injectors
New tune (very custom)
New - Tires/Brakes/Axles/Engine mounts/Tranny mounts/wheels
More parasitic loss
Less RPM on the pulley
A bunch of other stuff I am too tired/lazy to go look up from my book right now.

But it is worth it.

- SK

 

Not entirely true.
-There is clearance if you use the proper size twin screw. They are actually not as tall as the M62 with the adaptor plate it as about the same height. That also depends on how you place the s/c in the engine bay. Although you would bennefit greatly from a properly desinged heat extraction hood.

-yes you will need something to adapt the TB and the manifold to the new blower as you would with any other blower/turbo swap.

-You wouldn't have to rebuild the engine unless you intend to shove a lot more air in the engine. Then I would recommend a stronger head gasket, head studs, and forged pistons.

-The fuel system, like the engine, depends on how far you want to push it. A 2.6" pulley only pushes the 60#s to ~75% Duty Cycle w/ 101 octane on Blow 4-banger's car leaving a little room for improvement.

-Yes a re-tune but that is a given whether you merely add a CAI or change blowers and injectors.

-Tires/wheels/brakes/enginemounts/transmounts/axles are kinda optional although it is highly recomended that the axles and mounts be changed. Most people that would look to this extreme of a mod to make power would have performed most of these already I would hope. If not they will have to soon enough.

-More parasitic loss during off boost compared to a roots, but while under load a proper sized twin screw can produce 22psi while only consuming 40hp which is about as much, if not less than, the amount consumed by the M62 w/ stock pulley does under boost.

-yes less rpm because of its significantly higher volumetric efficiency. Even at 30psi it has a higher VE than an M62 at 10psi

-About the only thing you are missing is the facts that it makes constant heat because it is always compressing air, but because it has internal compression it makes half the heat a roots style blower does to create the same boost level. The constant heat can be compensated by increasing the surface area of your Heat Exchanger or adding additional Heat Exchangers to increase the surface area by ~30%. Using HP Tuners to make the fan constantly at 30% and the IC pump constantly run full-speed would probably work aswell. (Blown 4-banger's car already bennefits greatly from both the additional HE and the Fan/IC pump mod)

 

I have been talking to a company here in california about a whipple supercharger swap.

How many people would be willing to pay $3500 for a whipple kit?

That means tuning and all the parts.

 

Whipple doesn't make the proper size supercharger any more. They stopped last year.

 

LMAO! The m90 wont work man, youll end up losing hp because of its gearing. itll take more HP to spin it! The only real swaps that can be done is using the kenne bell 1.33 or just wait for the TVS units to come out next year.

 

If people thought outside the box sometimes many questions can be answered through research. I found the following answers to many of the questions for this swap. Follow my thought process here.

Q: Who made the blower designs for Whipple?
A: Lysholm

Q: Do they still make them?
A: Why certainly they do. (Google is your friend)

Q: What size Lysholm blower would be good for our application?
A: Why the Lysholm 1200AX would be perfect. (E-mail Lysholm direct, received reply)

Q: Who made the design for the KB blowers?
A: Autorotor (Google is your friend)

Q: Do they still make them?
A: Yes, they do. (Google is your friend)

Q: What size blower would be great for our application?
A: The Autorotor QA3133. (Knowing and PMing people on these forums is key to intel sometimes)

Info: The swap has already been done with the KB 1.33L

Q: Has anyone seen it personnally?
A: Why yes if you dig into it and check with the locals near the car that has been swapped, whom also post on these forums.

Thought: It must be hard to mount that blower on the manifold while still being able to hook up a bypass valve to function properly and not cut into the hood.

Q: How was this swap done?
A: Think outside the box when it comes to mounting the blower/making adapter pieces. Twinscrews can be mounted on top (chevys), upside down (older mustangs), sideways (PT crusier) .... (Google Images is your friend now)

Q: What would be the easiest for the space i have to mount my setup?
A: I figured it out and have rough diagrams made already, can you?

Facts: I'll hook you guys up with some answers that are hard to find that you cannot get through normal channels. The stock fuel system supports the 1.33L KB blower with the addition of 60LB injectors. HPTuners will allow you tune the car properly for the setup. The pulley size is roughly 3.25" - 3.35" in diameter. The car put down 350ish whp and 360ish wtrq on a completely stock engine and exhaust. Remember these are proven facts, not fiction.

I know this was long, but maybe it'll help some of you guys out that are still lost on the whole swap ordeal. I have many hours of research into this, and the only thing preventing it from happening for my own reality, is money and being deployed currently.

 

Any pics or updates for that swap ?

 

No. He made a deposite for the Tag Racecraft LYS1200AX swap that has been unspoken of for sometime now. I started working on a conversion, but stopped last December when Tag announced their conversion. I think I may need to try start that up again.

 

sticky please

 

In all honesty...No.

The purpose of a Piggyback or a Standalone system is only to tell the computer that "Hey...You cant be tuned...so im going to trick you"..

In short, for vehicles where they do a engine swap which is in no way compatible to the original car/computer that its going into...few piggybacks will handle it..but a Standalone would cover it.


The 2.0L SS/SC Cobalts/ION Redlines computers are designed to see boost. The only problem I can really forsee is that maybe the stock computer will say "Wait a second...your pushing a **** load of air in for this RPM"...and might throw a code.

but with the advent of HPTuners, you can easily modify the stock computer to change its A/F ratios, as well as if needed your injector settings.

 

holyyyyyy ancient thread.

but still valid information.
and sadly. 2 years later. were still stuck with the flamethrower, and no valid blower swap kits.

 

The eaton isn't a flamethrower. An eaton spinning at 16,000 rpm making 19-20 lbs of boost IS a flamethrower. The eaton is a very efficient setup (in terms of a roots style), how its only efficient up like 12-14 lbs of boost. Then it makes more heat than anything else. Lower the boost to 12-14 lbs and you should be in good shape.

 

yeah. and barely above stock hp :P

its a flamethrower if you go much past stage 2. lets put it that way.

 

i was always under the impression that the tvs can just fit right in.....

 

I was thinkin more like increase ENGINE flow, so I doesn't give the blower a chance to build 20 pound of boost worth of air in the manifold.