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Finished up my lighting projects!

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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:44 PM
  #26  
britt's Avatar
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From: Lebanon, IN
why not.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 10:21 PM
  #27  
Shibito's Avatar
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Joined: 06-03-08
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From: Michigan
I like the set-up a lot! Very nicely done.

I like how people keep coming into ANY thread they see with lighting in the topic just to say it looks like rice. Can't we have a rule that says don't go into a topic to just say rice?
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 11:29 PM
  #28  
Cptn Pants's Avatar
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From: NJ
Alright, he's the basics.

Equipment used:
4x 12 Inch Neon tubes (Under dash / Under seat lighting)
2x 3 Inch Neon tubes. (Under gauge cluster / under arm rest)
8x 2mm 120 Degree angle LED's (4 in each cup holder)
2x 9 Inch LED strips (Door pocket lighting)
2x 12 Inch LED strips (Under door lighting)
1 Resistor (I cant remember the values on this but it's used to drop standard 12v to the 2.24v that the LED's needed to work properly.)

Under the dash Neons (Would have use LED tubes but i got these for free):
This one is easy, basically all I did was get a fuse tap and put that in the fusebox where the ignition fuse was, now i have 1 fuse for ignition and 1 fuse for lights. I ran that new power cable through the firewall into the car under the drivers side dash to a panel mount switch i put in that little compartment where the trunk release is. Then i took the voltage out put from the switch and split it 5 ways originally. I ran a ground to the firewall then to the switch (All power needs a ground and a hot wire to work). I paired those wires up and ran them under the front dash. Then I took the other 2 and ran them under the center console and under the back part of the seats. Zip tied the light tubes in place and boom done!

The cup holders:
where a hole lot harder. I had to find a wiring diagram online. But basically I took that 5th set of positive and negative wires and ran them to a resistor and then to 8 LED's that i had on the end of 8 pretty long sets of wires. I popped out the cup holders and drilled 4 holes in each and then used some LED holders to keep them in place, then hot glued that **** up. Link! Keep in mind, where that guy put 2 LED's in I used 4.

Gauges:
Easy all you gotta do is get a 3 inch neon tube and mount in on top of the steering wheel, i spliced into the same wires as the neons and that was that.

Doors:
Man this took like... a day and a half. I had to take off the door panels to do this. The ones under the door are easy to wire because you don't have to run a negative from the firewall. All you gotta do, and it works out better this way, is run a negative from the door closed switches (not sure what they are called). This way when that button is pushed in the light is off and not wasting any power. I also ran the positive into a fuse tap on the interior lights so that it can get power without the car having to be on. The worse part is snaking the wire through that stupid flexible thing between the car and the door. I mounted the LED strips using automotive grade M3 dual sided tape, but i may glue them in place if they ever come loose. Keep in mind I used very thin LED strips so that i didn't have to recess them in the door at all, there is about 5mm of clearance between the underside of the door panels and the running board thing.

If anyone has any specific questions PM me or post here. I keep my eye on this treat even if I don't post a lot.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #29  
britt's Avatar
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Joined: 03-09-08
Posts: 698
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From: Lebanon, IN
Originally Posted by Cptn Pants
Alright, he's the basics.

Equipment used:
4x 12 Inch Neon tubes (Under dash / Under seat lighting)
2x 3 Inch Neon tubes. (Under gauge cluster / under arm rest)
8x 2mm 120 Degree angle LED's (4 in each cup holder)
2x 9 Inch LED strips (Door pocket lighting)
2x 12 Inch LED strips (Under door lighting)
1 Resistor (I cant remember the values on this but it's used to drop standard 12v to the 2.24v that the LED's needed to work properly.)

Under the dash Neons (Would have use LED tubes but i got these for free):
This one is easy, basically all I did was get a fuse tap and put that in the fusebox where the ignition fuse was, now i have 1 fuse for ignition and 1 fuse for lights. I ran that new power cable through the firewall into the car under the drivers side dash to a panel mount switch i put in that little compartment where the trunk release is. Then i took the voltage out put from the switch and split it 5 ways originally. I ran a ground to the firewall then to the switch (All power needs a ground and a hot wire to work). I paired those wires up and ran them under the front dash. Then I took the other 2 and ran them under the center console and under the back part of the seats. Zip tied the light tubes in place and boom done!

The cup holders:
where a hole lot harder. I had to find a wiring diagram online. But basically I took that 5th set of positive and negative wires and ran them to a resistor and then to 8 LED's that i had on the end of 8 pretty long sets of wires. I popped out the cup holders and drilled 4 holes in each and then used some LED holders to keep them in place, then hot glued that **** up. Link! Keep in mind, where that guy put 2 LED's in I used 4.

Gauges:
Easy all you gotta do is get a 3 inch neon tube and mount in on top of the steering wheel, i spliced into the same wires as the neons and that was that.

Doors:
Man this took like... a day and a half. I had to take off the door panels to do this. The ones under the door are easy to wire because you don't have to run a negative from the firewall. All you gotta do, and it works out better this way, is run a negative from the door closed switches (not sure what they are called). This way when that button is pushed in the light is off and not wasting any power. I also ran the positive into a fuse tap on the interior lights so that it can get power without the car having to be on. The worse part is snaking the wire through that stupid flexible thing between the car and the door. I mounted the LED strips using automotive grade M3 dual sided tape, but i may glue them in place if they ever come loose. Keep in mind I used very thin LED strips so that i didn't have to recess them in the door at all, there is about 5mm of clearance between the underside of the door panels and the running board thing.

If anyone has any specific questions PM me or post here. I keep my eye on this treat even if I don't post a lot.
so what would i need to do if i wanted to do JUST the underdash lighting..you said you split the switch 5 ways. pictures? im just not very good at wiring stuff
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #30  
Cptn Pants's Avatar
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Joined: 02-16-07
Posts: 517
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From: NJ
Well I didn't really split it as much as I just put 5 wires onto the switch lol. It's pretty getto looking if i could ever get a picture of it. Ill see what i can do after work.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #31  
M-Dub's Avatar
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Joined: 12-19-05
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From: Raleigh, NC
NE-ONS..... are just play EWWWIE!


Rice I dunno... but dumb yes!
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 02:52 PM
  #32  
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Joined: 08-15-06
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From: Griffin Ga
look good to me !! , personaly if that car was black on black , red or green would look pretty kool !!

Last edited by Brucesblack; Aug 12, 2008 at 11:07 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #33  
Cptn Pants's Avatar
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Joined: 02-16-07
Posts: 517
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by Brucesblack
look good to me !! , presonaly if that car was black on black , red or green would look pretty kool !!
Tell me about it! But when i bought this car, I really really needed a car right away and they didn't have it in the color i wanted with the options i demanded. So I got silver and got all the options i wanted for a price lower then they originally quoted me since i was being such a dick about the color. Over all, I'm very happy with my car and how it's turning out.


Ps. I know Neon's are dumb, i should have gotten LED tubes.
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