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Paint dash trim with color match auto paint?

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Paint dash trim with color match auto paint?

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Old 10-06-2018, 02:24 AM
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Paint dash trim with color match auto paint?

Hello all,

I painted my dash a few months ago in some awful plastic paint from Walmart that despite sanding, priming, painting, and clear coating properly over the course of 3 days to let each coat dry, completely ruined itself. It bubbles, peeled, cracked, scratched and looks absolutely terrible. So iíve Seen a few people use color matched auto paint to paint their dash trim and the results look quite amazing, but Iím curious if anyone knows how well it holds up over time. The last thing I want to do is work on the trim for another 3 or 4 days and it comes out amazing at first but looks like a junkyard car after a week. On amazon I found matched paint called Spectral Paints by Spectrum Paints that comes with with 1 can of primer, base coat, and clear coat for $50; worth it or nah?
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Old 10-06-2018, 09:26 AM
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Did you use a primer before the plastic paint?
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ECaulk View Post
Did you use a primer before the plastic paint?
Again, ďdespite sanding, priming, painting, and clear coating properly over the course of 3 days to let each coat dry, it completely ruined itself.Ē

Plastic paint does not work on interior parts due to the high heat inside of the car and it constantly being touched and handled. My question is simply whether the auto grade exterior color matched paint will hold up or not if the whole process of sanding, priming, painting, and clear coating is restarted; as others on the forums have achieved what seems to be great success when using the auto paint instead. Iím just curious to find out if it holds up from anyone who has accomplished this.
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:23 PM
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Don't use Krylon (the Walmart ****). Use Rustoleum. I painted my trim several months ago (it's somewhere in the What have you done with your Cobalt" thread) and it still looks like I just painted it.

If you want good results, get good product
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ProfDNS View Post
Don't use Krylon (the Walmart ****). Use Rustoleum. I painted my trim several months ago (it's somewhere in the What have you done with your Cobalt" thread) and it still looks like I just painted it.

If you want good results, get good product
I despise Krylon, I agree it is indeed junk paint. I used Rustoleum gold color paint and Rustoleum primer before that and let it dry in a de-humidified room and it still gave me nothing but issues. It was fine for the first week and then it started to get scuffed, the door handles started cracking and it went all down hill from there.
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadhog117 View Post


I despise Krylon, I agree it is indeed junk paint. I used Rustoleum gold color paint and Rustoleum primer before that and let it dry in a humidified room and it still gave me nothing but issues.
Humidity + Paint = No bueno. Water (even in the air) will cause paint issues.
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ProfDNS View Post
Humidity + Paint = No bueno. Water (even in the air) will cause paint issues.
Iím sorry, autocorrect. De-humidified room.
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:38 PM
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I just want to say, the whole reason I started this thread is to see if anyone has had long term success with auto paint on there interior trim. I did not start this thread to try and figure out why my paint messed up. Iím trying to buy the best product, using the best knowledge I know on how to paint it properly. Iím not cutting corners, Iím not doing this the easy way, Iím doing it the right way and I know for a fact I did it the right way the first time and it turned out like crap because of the paint I used. Hence the reason Iím considering spending the $50 for auto grade paint to redo the dash.

Please donít take this post in an offensive way because thatís not how I mean it at all, and I really do appreciate the posts; however, I really just want to find out if the $50 investment will be worth my while this time if applied properly.
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:39 PM
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If you believe your prep is good (sanding and primer), then all there's left that would cause paint issues is your painting technique (barring any faulty paint cans/etc).

When I painted my trim, I did 2 light coats, waited 10 minutes per coat, and my 3rd coat was a medium coat. If I missed a spot, I would do a final light coat after that dried for 10 minutes.

I also did 3 light coats of UV/yellow resistant clear coat.
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ProfDNS View Post
If you believe your prep is good (sanding and primer), then all there's left that would cause paint issues is your painting technique (barring any faulty paint cans/etc).

When I painted my trim, I did 2 light coats, waited 10 minutes per coat, and my 3rd coat was a medium coat. If I missed a spot, I would do a final light coat after that dried for 10 minutes.

I also did 3 light coats of UV/yellow resistant clear coat.
I sanded, cleaned it, sprayed 2 coats of primer with an hour between each coat, 3 light coats of base, waiting 2-3hrs between coats, and one final heavier coat and waited 24hrs before applying 3 light coats of clear with 2-3 hours between each.

All of this was done in an enclosed room with a large dehumidifier, and a warm temperature of around 80 degrees.
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:52 PM
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That's why. You're letting the paint dry too long. 10-15 minutes tops per coat to dry.

So:

1st light coat of primer
- wait 10 minutes to dry
2nd light coat of primer
- wait 10 minutes to dry
3rd medium coat of primer
- wait 1 hour to dry

+ Optional: Sand primer for smooth finish

1st coat of paint
- wait 10 minutes
3nd coat of paint
- wait 10 minutes
3rd medium coat of paint

- wait 15 minutes
Do above with clear coat.

This was the best result I got.

Edit #2: You need to let the paint bound to the surface and to itself for a smooth finish. If you let the paint sit too long, instead of bonding your layers, you're creating separate tiers of paint. So if one layer fails, they all fail, hence your cracking/bubbling

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Old 10-06-2018, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ProfDNS View Post
That's why. You're letting the paint dry too long. 10-15 minutes tops per coat to dry.

So:

1st light coat of primer
- wait 10 minutes to dry
2nd light coat of primer
- wait 10 minutes to dry
3rd medium coat of primer
- wait 1 hour to dry

+ Optional: Sand primer for smooth finish

1st coat of paint
- wait 10 minutes
3nd coat of paint
- wait 10 minutes
3rd medium coat of paint

- wait 15 minutes
Do above with clear coat.

This was the best result I got.

Ahh ok, I guess that makes sense because if it dries before the second coat, it probably causes the chemicals in the paint to not mix properly with each other. Thanks for the help, Iíll probably pull the trigger on the color matched paint soon so it will match my exterior at any rate. Thanks again 👍🏻
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Old 10-06-2018, 03:01 PM
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Awesome. When you're done, show us some pictures here
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Old 10-06-2018, 07:05 PM
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You waited to long between coats. 10-15mins between primer coats and the color coats. Your paint hardens and starts to off gas and can cause adhesive issues.

Try priming one day and the next sand smooth, dry and then color coat with 10-15mins between coats, first really thin to promote better attachment and then thicker for 2n and 3rd.

I used this method with the duplicolor auto rattle can paints with success, handled the high heat and wear just fine. If you really want protection get a 2k clear, it will be harder and will stand up to most solvents. Find a paint shop near you and see if they can mix 2k custom cans and then you dont have to worry about clear.
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Old 10-06-2018, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ProfDNS View Post
That's why. You're letting the paint dry too long. 10-15 minutes tops per coat to dry.

So:

1st light coat of primer
- wait 10 minutes to dry
2nd light coat of primer
- wait 10 minutes to dry
3rd medium coat of primer
- wait 1 hour to dry

+ Optional: Sand primer for smooth finish

1st coat of paint
- wait 10 minutes
3nd coat of paint
- wait 10 minutes
3rd medium coat of paint

- wait 15 minutes
Do above with clear coat.

This was the best result I got.

Edit #2: You need to let the paint bound to the surface and to itself for a smooth finish. If you let the paint sit too long, instead of bonding your layers, you're creating separate tiers of paint. So if one layer fails, they all fail, hence your cracking/bubbling
I really need to get to the second page on mobile before posting lol. Your close, the top layer hardens and then starts off gasing and prevents the next layer from attaching correctly and then the lower layer doesnt dry correct either
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Old 10-08-2018, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ECaulk View Post
If you really want protection get a 2k clear, it will be harder and will stand up to most solvents. Find a paint shop near you and see if they can mix 2k custom cans and then you dont have to worry about clear.
So, I spent the last couple days calling around and the only paint place that mixes aerosol cans is Napa at 1 location, and the location is currently closed due to damage from hurricane Florence. Would it be worth it to buy 2k primer, base coat, plus 2k clear? It would be pricey for sure, but if it would last longer I''ll spend the extra.

The other option would be the $50 package on Amazon with 1 can of non 2k primer, auto grade color matched base coat, and non 2k clear.


Update:

I called Sherwin Williams, PPG, Carquest, they all claim to not mix automotive paint. Should I be asking if they mix urethane instead?

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Old 10-08-2018, 12:29 PM
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iirc you don't need a 2k base if you're going to put a 2k clear. Most 1k should play nice with 2k clears. Try Eastwood products online, they def carry the 2k clear. A single can of 2k clear will be enough for 3 coats on the interior trim pieces.
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Old 10-08-2018, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ECaulk View Post
iirc you don't need a 2k base if you're going to put a 2k clear. Most 1k should play nice with 2k clears. Try Eastwood products online, they def carry the 2k clear. A single can of 2k clear will be enough for 3 coats on the interior trim pieces.
After looking at prices, for 1 can of SprayMax 1k primer (368003) $17.93 on eBay, Touchup Express WA913l urethane paint $28.98 on eBay, 1 can of SprayMax 2k clear (368-0061) $18.10 on Amazon; for a total of $65.01 before tax. Vs buying the $50 package with non 1k and 2k products.

Is the finished product, in your opinion, worth spending the extra $15-$20 to get the 1k primer and 2k clear?
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Old 10-08-2018, 01:59 PM
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If you're going to keep the car a long time (>3yrs) it's def worth a stronger paint. The package is likely 1k products (no hardener added) acrylic or urethane.
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ECaulk View Post
The package is likely 1k products (no hardener added) acrylic or urethane.
I thought there was a difference between regular primer and 1k primer? If not then I'll just get regular primer instead of $18 worth of 1 can of the 1k primer...
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:29 PM
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The AC Delco touch up paint works great so far for me. You can grab a can for around $20 on amazon guaranteed to match your car with the proper paint code. DupliColor automotive paint deserves a decent look too. I've had great success with both.

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Old 10-09-2018, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Mythical SS View Post
The AC Delco touch up paint works great so far for me. You can grab a can for around $20 on amazon guaranteed to match your car with the proper paint code. DupliColor automotive paint deserves a decent look too. I've had great success with both.
Thanks for sharing your experience and for the post! I checked it out and they don’t carry my paint code in spray can form though, only a half ounce paint pen. My paint code is the Sunburst II Metallic or 56, WA913L.
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:32 AM
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This is all I have ever used except for the interior silver.
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt Colors of Touch Up Paint

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Old 10-09-2018, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by HGT View Post
This is all I have ever used for the interior silver.
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt Colors of Touch Up Paint
Wow, I've never seen that site before; that's good stuff! It's a bit cheaper than the others I've found as well. You're like omnipresent or something; you're all over this site and super knowledgable lol. My car is running again thanks to you
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:00 AM
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Should I be looking to spray plastic adhesion before primer? if so, how long is the cycle between the adhesion and primer coats?
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