Autocross and Road Racing Road racing is not “street racing”

2.5 deg camber, too much, not enough?

Old Aug 4, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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2.5 deg camber, too much, not enough?

Moved the subframe center to the car and slotted the hub mounts.

Camber - 2.5 deg,
Toe + 1/16th.

What do you guys think?


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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 03:24 PM
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Only one way to find out: Take her back the the track and whoop on her some more!
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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Haha, you guys got a little crazy after I left?

Im interested to know this, lets see what the pro's have to say.

I am thinking I might go pay scott a visit and get him to do the same for me.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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It is gonna be all about driver preference, what is good for one person could suck for another.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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Don't you have a OTTP sway bar? I would think the combination of the two would make it pretty tail happy. Judging by the Cobra in the pics I think you may be used to that
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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wow how'd u get that much i only got -1.1
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 11:22 PM
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He opened up the bolt hole where the strut mounts into the hub.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Illini_06SS
Only one way to find out: Take her back the the track and whoop on her some more!
Yep, Aug 22/23 is only 3 weeks away

Originally Posted by ogc
Haha, you guys got a little crazy after I left?

Im interested to know this, lets see what the pro's have to say.

I am thinking I might go pay scott a visit and get him to do the same for me.
I wanted 1.9-2.0 but Scott talked me into 2.5 You can take your car to him for sure, I drove 1.5 hrs to have him work on my car.

Originally Posted by steddy2112
It is gonna be all about driver preference, what is good for one person could suck for another.
I agree 100%
Was just wondering if anybody els is running this much camber.

Originally Posted by jboogie
Don't you have a OTTP sway bar? I would think the combination of the two would make it pretty tail happy. Judging by the Cobra in the pics I think you may be used to that
Yes, but I am going to run a couple laps on Mosport (Aug22) without the bar first and then add it for the practice Sunday morning. The front end feels really tight now, so she might be a little tail happy we'll see.
And yeah I have no problem hanging the rear end out after racing the Cobra for the past 5 years

Last edited by venom09; Aug 4, 2009 at 11:53 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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Pics look good!
We are not allowed to slot that much for stock class autox.
Doesn't look like that matters for you since you do track stuff.
I suspect your car will be faster and easier on tires at the track now.
FM
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by AlbertaTurbo
let us know how it feels on your next track visit, my 09 ss/tc coupe is in prep mode for the track next year, anything and everything I can learn here will absolutely be helpful to my season next year. Solo 1&2 plus a little rally cross, just TSD events for now tho.
If you are new to open track I would leave it stock for a couple events. It is easy to drive fast and VERY forgiving at the limit.
Once you add a rear swaybar and front camber she might be faster through the corners but also more 'twitchy' (not sure if this is the word I am looking for) at the limit.
Then again that is just my opinion, ogc seems to like his rear swaybar and he is fairly new (competition wise) to open track.

Originally Posted by Fastmike
Pics look good!
We are not allowed to slot that much for stock class autox.
Doesn't look like that matters for you since you do track stuff.
I suspect your car will be faster and easier on tires at the track now.
FM
Thanks!
I had to claim 1 PIP for non OE camber and 1 PIP for rear swaybar. Now I am maxed out in GT3
All I need is 0.1 sec per corner (x 10 corners) to take the laprecord on Mosport for GT3

Last edited by venom09; Aug 5, 2009 at 12:11 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 12:12 AM
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Nice SVT R, but weren't they all red?
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by slowswap
Nice SVT R, but weren't they all red?
Mine is a 03 Cobra with all the Cobra R goodies and some for handling...

see vid in my sig

Thanks!
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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Another full second? Hmmm...I don't know if you are going to get it with JUST the camber. You might lose a little traction under acceleration coming out of the corner due to wheelspin but hopefully corner speed will make that moot.
What tires are you running?
FM
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastmike
Another full second? Hmmm...I don't know if you are going to get it with JUST the camber. You might lose a little traction under acceleration coming out of the corner due to wheelspin but hopefully corner speed will make that moot.
What tires are you running?
FM
Actually I need .735 of a sec!
Mosport GP is all about cornerspeed with T5b the slowest corner where traction could be a problem.

Here is a vid of me in the Cobra doing some testing on Mosport, note the sweeping corners.
http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...Mosportavi.flv

Tires: Nitto NT05
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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I want to do this, but I am unsure what is required. Since you have the experience, would you recommend doing front and rear, or could I just get away with doing the rear? I put the NT05 on in a 245, and they are a HAIR too wide in the back...
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mkriebs
I want to do this, but I am unsure what is required. Since you have the experience, would you recommend doing front and rear, or could I just get away with doing the rear? I put the NT05 on in a 245, and they are a HAIR too wide in the back...

Personally I love the stock setup in the rear, very easy to drive at the limit. Just play around with tire pressures to dail it in.
My 235's are too wide for our rims already, so I suspect the 245 might be a problem at the track when it comes to handling. Look out for uneven wear and use a tire pyrometer to see if you are getting that balloon effect where the center is taking all the load. Mine was borderline btw.
Are you rubbing on the rear?
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by venom09
Personally I love the stock setup in the rear, very easy to drive at the limit. Just play around with tire pressures to dail it in.
My 235's are too wide for our rims already, so I suspect the 245 might be a problem at the track when it comes to handling. Look out for uneven wear and use a tire pyrometer to see if you are getting that balloon effect where the center is taking all the load. Mine was borderline btw.
Are you rubbing on the rear?
It doesn't seem less stable or anything, but I realize that 235's would have been the better choice. I only rub on one side for some reason, which is why I am thinkin about dialing in some more camber in the rear. Obviously, something isn't right. I am also lowered on sportlines, which is a problem with the wide tires.

Did you get any pictures of what you customized in the front to do this?
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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From my experience. You should be able to hold high speed corners much better, but the car may not want to turn in under tighter slower corners. I've ben running just over 1° of camber max on stock adjustment and it seems to work great all around.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mkriebs
It doesn't seem less stable or anything, but I realize that 235's would have been the better choice. I only rub on one side for some reason, which is why I am thinkin about dialing in some more camber in the rear. Obviously, something isn't right. I am also lowered on sportlines, which is a problem with the wide tires.

Did you get any pictures of what you customized in the front to do this?
No, sorry I did not take any pics but it was pretty straight forward. All we used was a rotary burr on a drill and slot it until we got 2.5deg.

Let me know how it works out for you.

Originally Posted by Large W
From my experience. You should be able to hold high speed corners much better, but the car may not want to turn in under tighter slower corners. I've ben running just over 1° of camber max on stock adjustment and it seems to work great all around.
Yes, the car feels pretty good now midcorner (running the offramps). I will know more this weekend

Last edited by venom09; Aug 18, 2009 at 01:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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-2.5 should be fine. I run -2.9 on my Mac strut 08 Si which wasn't quite enough for high speed AutoX at 39PSI on 245/40/17 dunlop star specs. the tires did roll over a little more than I thought they would.

turn-in wasn't that great but I had slow weight transfer b/c of my OEM suspension. The rate of weight transfer can really dictate what camber settings are optimal for corner entry/mid/exit. The sooner you transfer the weight, the more your camber will help your turn-in b/c the tire will be seeing deflection earlier.

On our heavy cars with Mac struts, even lighter Celica GTs, I beleive -2.5 to -3.5 is ideal depending on power and shock valving/spring rates.

I've gotten confirmation from a few people that the NT05s have a more stiff sidewall than Dunlop SS, RE11s, Kuhmo XS, Toyo R1R and the new Hankook RS3(yokos are too expensive to mention lol). The NT05s might become the tire to have on our heavy FWD cars that can be camber challenged to fit big tires.

I want to see a SS TC with Nt05s in 265/35/18s front and 235/40s rear with Konis on 500/600 spring rates tear up the track. That's got to equal an amazing ride!
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by berny2435
-2.5 should be fine. I run -2.9 on my Mac strut 08 Si which wasn't quite enough for high speed AutoX at 39PSI on 245/40/17 dunlop star specs. the tires did roll over a little more than I thought they would.

turn-in wasn't that great but I had slow weight transfer b/c of my OEM suspension. The rate of weight transfer can really dictate what camber settings are optimal for corner entry/mid/exit. The sooner you transfer the weight, the more your camber will help your turn-in b/c the tire will be seeing deflection earlier.

On our heavy cars with Mac struts, even lighter Celica GTs, I beleive -2.5 to -3.5 is ideal depending on power and shock valving/spring rates.

I've gotten confirmation from a few people that the NT05s have a more stiff sidewall than Dunlop SS, RE11s, Kuhmo XS, Toyo R1R and the new Hankook RS3(yokos are too expensive to mention lol). The NT05s might become the tire to have on our heavy FWD cars that can be camber challenged to fit big tires.

I want to see a SS TC with Nt05s in 265/35/18s front and 235/40s rear with Konis on 500/600 spring rates tear up the track. That's got to equal an amazing ride!

Hey Berny, if I did the mods you mentioned..would that put the Cobalt in STX?

Oh and the most I was able to get out of mine and remain stock (without removing any material) was -1.7
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Buzz65
Hey Berny, if I did the mods you mentioned..would that put the Cobalt in STX?

Oh and the most I was able to get out of mine and remain stock (without removing any material) was -1.7
You would get bumped to STX for upgrading wheels to run 265s (cuz they are not going on 7.5s) and also changing spring rates as you can't do that in stock but you can change shocks in stock.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by berny2435
I want to see a SS TC with Nt05s in 265/35/18s front and 235/40s rear with Konis on 500/600 spring rates tear up the track. That's got to equal an amazing ride!
Nitto makes a 275/40/17 and I have an extra set of 17x9's that came of the Cobra. Plus I can make some adapters at work no problem.

Wonder if the 500/600 will be enough to keep the tires from rubbing...
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by venom09
Nitto makes a 275/40/17 and I have an extra set of 17x9's that came of the Cobra. Plus I can make some adapters at work no problem.

Wonder if the 500/600 will be enough to keep the tires from rubbing...
If you don't plan on making the setup TUCK, then I don't think so.

Plus Cobra rims that I know of are not cobalt lug pattern.

I'd start at 800 and some really stiff shocks if you are going to go that route. Doesn't sound too DD friendly to me at those rates.

with 500s I think you'd need at MIN a 2" gap b/t the tire and the fender for just suspension travel while cornering, bad bumps or crack might call for a greater need.

if the cobalt has a 60/40 split, you have about 3200#s with driver and fuel and that means 960#s on each front shock and 640# on each rear. almost a 1 to 1 MR so that 800# will compress at rest with 960#s on it. with the inside rear unloaded along with a 1G force, that outside front could see 1500#s of pressure. not sure if I'd call that Pounds per square inch though.

How I came up with that:
some of that lateral G motion will transfer downwards with the pitch of the car and even more with friction vectors. This transfers to a doward vector of G force so basically maybe a 0.15 G is being forced down. at 1G, weight of the human body doubles.

So lets say with pitch you have 15% weight transfer to downward G. 15% of 960 = 144

Then the Back inside rear unloads giving you roughly 60% of that weight to the outside front. 60% of 640# = 384

960+384+144 = 1488#s. Theoretically, if you do not want that suspension to barely move, you would go with around a 1500# spring to start with. Funny thing is, that's not even as high as some of the Real Time Racing Acuras use on the rear of their cars. About 2400#s and have used higher!! liek a 0.45 motion ratio there though but only like 450#s on the back wheels so they are essentially using an effective spring rate of over double the corner weight of the car to keep it from compressing.

Mathematically A 7" 800# spring (if you put a point load on it) would compress about 1-7/8" with a 1500# load on it.

Again, rough numbers so if you F up your fenders, don't come crying back here saying it's my fault
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by berny2435
If you don't plan on making the setup TUCK, then I don't think so.

Plus Cobra rims that I know of are not cobalt lug pattern.

I'd start at 800 and some really stiff shocks if you are going to go that route. Doesn't sound too DD friendly to me at those rates.

with 500s I think you'd need at MIN a 2" gap b/t the tire and the fender for just suspension travel while cornering, bad bumps or crack might call for a greater need.

if the cobalt has a 60/40 split, you have about 3200#s with driver and fuel and that means 960#s on each front shock and 640# on each rear. almost a 1 to 1 MR so that 800# will compress at rest with 960#s on it. with the inside rear unloaded along with a 1G force, that outside front could see 1500#s of pressure. not sure if I'd call that Pounds per square inch though.

How I came up with that:
some of that lateral G motion will transfer downwards with the pitch of the car and even more with friction vectors. This transfers to a doward vector of G force so basically maybe a 0.15 G is being forced down. at 1G, weight of the human body doubles.

So lets say with pitch you have 15% weight transfer to downward G. 15% of 960 = 144

Then the Back inside rear unloads giving you roughly 60% of that weight to the outside front. 60% of 640# = 384

960+384+144 = 1488#s. Theoretically, if you do not want that suspension to barely move, you would go with around a 1500# spring to start with. Funny thing is, that's not even as high as some of the Real Time Racing Acuras use on the rear of their cars. About 2400#s and have used higher!! liek a 0.45 motion ratio there though but only like 450#s on the back wheels so they are essentially using an effective spring rate of over double the corner weight of the car to keep it from compressing.

Mathematically A 7" 800# spring (if you put a point load on it) would compress about 1-7/8" with a 1500# load on it.

Again, rough numbers so if you F up your fenders, don't come crying back here saying it's my fault
GREAT post! Thanks a bunch

The Cobra is 114, but I've made lots of custom adapters before.
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