Alignment setup for AutoX?
Alignment setup for AutoX?
Sorry if this is elsewhere on the forums, but I promise I have searched....
I am installing Powell v.4 springs on my 2008 SS, while replacing CABs with Powell, and End Links with PowerLinks. At the same time, I will be doing an alignment. I am wondering what is considered optimal alignment for AutoX? This car is NOT my DD, so I am not worried about a compromise setup, just optimal for a cone killer.
Any thoughts?
I am installing Powell v.4 springs on my 2008 SS, while replacing CABs with Powell, and End Links with PowerLinks. At the same time, I will be doing an alignment. I am wondering what is considered optimal alignment for AutoX? This car is NOT my DD, so I am not worried about a compromise setup, just optimal for a cone killer.
Any thoughts?
Zero toe is what I was told by John Powell and what I use for front. I also utilize two camber bolts to try and get about -2 degrees of camber in the front. I would like a tad more camber up front but haven't gone to slotting the lower bolt holes on the shock tower yet. I like to run tires that can be flipped on the wheel as I flip them about half way through the season to get more life out of them otherwise the outside edge of the tire will get worn off with the inside edge still having life.
Zero toe is what I was told by John Powell and what I use for front. I also utilize two camber bolts to try and get about -2 degrees of camber in the front. I would like a tad more camber up front but haven't gone to slotting the lower bolt holes on the shock tower yet. I like to run tires that can be flipped on the wheel as I flip them about half way through the season to get more life out of them otherwise the outside edge of the tire will get worn off with the inside edge still having life.
I don't think there is much you can adjust without special shims and whatnot. If there is I don't personally know what should be tweaked. Really with our FWD Cobalts the rear has plenty of grip in stock alignment IMO.
Sounds like you'll be running STH, right? If so, you're pretty open with how you go about getting camber. I would start by getting camber bolts, and if needed, you can slot the mounting holes on the lower part of the shock that attaches to the hub. The factory shock has two layers of steel, so just open up the round single layer to meet the wider second layer. Both those together should give you plenty of adjustability. Just slotting with the stock bolts usually nets around -2.5 degrees, so with camber bolts, you'll have plenty. I would shoot for -3 degrees camber in the front with zero toe, or just slight toe out. I don't think anything in the rear is adjustable within the rules, and there wouldn't be much to be gained there anyway. If you're in SLC, reach out to Tyler Oborn. He runs STH in his TC Sedan, and does pretty well. There are also a couple of us here in Colorado running DS in TC Sedans.
Sounds like you'll be running STH, right? If so, you're pretty open with how you go about getting camber. I would start by getting camber bolts, and if needed, you can slot the mounting holes on the lower part of the shock that attaches to the hub. The factory shock has two layers of steel, so just open up the round single layer to meet the wider second layer. Both those together should give you plenty of adjustability. Just slotting with the stock bolts usually nets around -2.5 degrees, so with camber bolts, you'll have plenty. I would shoot for -3 degrees camber in the front with zero toe, or just slight toe out. I don't think anything in the rear is adjustable within the rules, and there wouldn't be much to be gained there anyway. If you're in SLC, reach out to Tyler Oborn. He runs STH in his TC Sedan, and does pretty well. There are also a couple of us here in Colorado running DS in TC Sedans.
Anyway, I would love to connect with Tyler Oborn here in UT. I will PM you and ask if you have contact info for him.
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