Cobalt STX Build
12-26-2011, 08:41 PM
#27
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Regardless of what car we are in we are going to each have our own set of tires to run on. 2 drivers doesn't mean double the tire wear...it means 10 times the tire wear especially when it is hot out. There just isn't enough time to properly cool the tires.
12-29-2011, 03:40 PM
#31
Did the KW V2 still come with the rear Konis, or are they using their own shocks now?
12-30-2011, 12:13 AM
#32
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I would think more in the 12kg range out back maybe?
Wait, what are you doing for your sway bars? You normally run smooth concrete right?
Wait, what are you doing for your sway bars? You normally run smooth concrete right?
Last edited by jboogie; 12-30-2011 at 12:31 AM.
12-30-2011, 09:14 AM
#33
You've lost me. What is the 220mm that you're referring to? That sounds like the length of the spring, which has nothing to do with the rated spring rate. If you want 8kg/mm rear springs, it would be 8kg/mm * 55.88 = 447 lb/in.
Did the KW V2 still come with the rear Konis, or are they using their own shocks now?
Did the KW V2 still come with the rear Konis, or are they using their own shocks now?
They dont look like the koni yellows i had. Ill get some photos up later. new i phone update is messing with my photo albums.
12-30-2011, 09:22 AM
#34
im not big on changing things, i like taking the setup i have and working on making it work. thats why ill stick with the XXX bar next season.
12-30-2011, 11:05 AM
#35
2.25 x 9 : Koni, Ohlins, Moton, Penske, Hypercoils, Your Racing Shocks Shop!
Anyone have an idea for spring rates? I dont want to go to stiff. Im thinking about 500lb springs. On my STi i went 600lb up front and 500 in the rear.
Might be something i play around with i guess lol.
Anyone have an idea for spring rates? I dont want to go to stiff. Im thinking about 500lb springs. On my STi i went 600lb up front and 500 in the rear.
Might be something i play around with i guess lol.
01-03-2012, 01:55 PM
#36
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Running coil-overs on a daily driver will always be a compromise. Most fun I ever had on the street was in a 1st Gen Neon with GC coil-overs and 550 front springs and 800 rear springs with a HUGE rear bar. Ride quality sucked but damn was it fun to take for a spirited ride.
You might also want to check out Whiteline from down under.
whiteline dot com dot au
They have some pretty cool parts that will fit the Cobalt such as:
-Rear Camber/toe shims
-Front Lower Control arm inner front and rear bushings
-Rear sway bar (my favorite as it ties the suspension to the chassis)
You might also want to check out Whiteline from down under.
whiteline dot com dot au
They have some pretty cool parts that will fit the Cobalt such as:
-Rear Camber/toe shims
-Front Lower Control arm inner front and rear bushings
-Rear sway bar (my favorite as it ties the suspension to the chassis)
01-03-2012, 07:40 PM
#37
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Wait you've been to nats and likely want to go back. Whats with the star specs and not the kooks or toyos? The star specs are a great daily driver tire, its what I run. But they're just no match for the top two tires in the class.
And use optimum G to figure out the spring rates.
Also looked at that whileline bar, wish they made one like that for my chassis, though holy **** its a 24mm solid bar, I thought my 24mm tubular was A heavy as ****, and B on the boarder of too stiff.
And use optimum G to figure out the spring rates.
Also looked at that whileline bar, wish they made one like that for my chassis, though holy **** its a 24mm solid bar, I thought my 24mm tubular was A heavy as ****, and B on the boarder of too stiff.
Last edited by Leafydialupking; 01-03-2012 at 07:46 PM.
01-03-2012, 09:03 PM
#38
Wait you've been to nats and likely want to go back. Whats with the star specs and not the kooks or toyos? The star specs are a great daily driver tire, its what I run. But they're just no match for the top two tires in the class.
And use optimum G to figure out the spring rates.
Also looked at that whileline bar, wish they made one like that for my chassis, though holy **** its a 24mm solid bar, I thought my 24mm tubular was A heavy as ****, and B on the boarder of too stiff.
And use optimum G to figure out the spring rates.
Also looked at that whileline bar, wish they made one like that for my chassis, though holy **** its a 24mm solid bar, I thought my 24mm tubular was A heavy as ****, and B on the boarder of too stiff.
Toyos are only good in a ST or STS size, and larger of a car they heat up way to fast and dont do as well on large cars. 89 civic compaired to a cobalt.. large lol.
Hankooks would be good but I plan to buy one set. Up here we have cold, rain, Hot weather you name it all season and the dunlop does well in all of those. hell we had snow our 1st event last year :P Like i said it does well in all of those. Its really just to test the waters, see how outclassed the car is or isnt. Who knows, no one has tired at nats yet
Dunlops also do well on cars that have a lot of front grip, but thats just my feeling.
01-03-2012, 09:17 PM
#42
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wow, where the hell was this when I had the balt??? Whiteline Suspension Bushings hard to wrap my head around how the rear sway bar would work with the leg on the twist beam and the sway bar being different lengths. Do like the rear shims though.
I'm with you on the toyos, not for a cobalt. I drove some 255s on an STX prepped WRX and hated them. Heated up to quick and the sidewalls felt softer than all-seasons!
I'm with you on the toyos, not for a cobalt. I drove some 255s on an STX prepped WRX and hated them. Heated up to quick and the sidewalls felt softer than all-seasons!
Last edited by jboogie; 01-03-2012 at 09:23 PM.
01-03-2012, 09:21 PM
#43
wow, where the hell was this when I had the balt??? Whiteline Suspension Bushings hard to wrap my head around how the rear sway bar would work with the leg on the twist beam and the sway bar being different lengths. Do like the rear shims though.
do they ship here? lol
01-03-2012, 11:32 PM
#44
That bar looks like fail to me. The arms are too long, so the 24mm won't even be as stiff as the PRS hardcore bar, even though the HC bar is hollow. Then there's the tree trunk XXX bar
There's no way that rear bushing will work. Whiteline generally makes good stuff, but these don't look good at all. It's unfortunate that the class forbids metal bushings, since PRS has the spherical. Of course... it doesn't look like a spherical...
Looks like KW finally started making their own rears instead of using the Koni housings. Not surprised. Actually, I was very surprised to find out that they had used Konis at all since they bought out a factory somewhere in Europe to make their own shocks, and started to forgo using Koni parts. That was back in like 2000 though.
I'm sure the valving is similar though, which is a good thing
There's no way that rear bushing will work. Whiteline generally makes good stuff, but these don't look good at all. It's unfortunate that the class forbids metal bushings, since PRS has the spherical. Of course... it doesn't look like a spherical...
Looks like KW finally started making their own rears instead of using the Koni housings. Not surprised. Actually, I was very surprised to find out that they had used Konis at all since they bought out a factory somewhere in Europe to make their own shocks, and started to forgo using Koni parts. That was back in like 2000 though.
I'm sure the valving is similar though, which is a good thing
01-04-2012, 05:26 AM
#45
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So those dont have any compression damping adjustment but have rebound coming out of their ass. Those look like perfect dampers for stock class (besides the lack of compression adjustment). And what is up with the weird shape of the low setting?
01-04-2012, 12:16 PM
#46
By no means would I ever advocate cranking these up to full. That is way too much based on the graphs. But with Pedders and the XXX (1.5" rear bar), 1/2 to 3/4 turn off full soft is just right. You can tell if it's too much, because the car will jack down a little, since the springs are not strong enough to expand the suspension back up quickly enough.
For stock class, yes, you can use this to your advantage by cranking them waaaay up and purposely getting on the bumpstops. Instant higher spring rate.
01-04-2012, 12:36 PM
#47
im working on getting rid of the progressive springs. Found hypercoil prings, just waiting to ge tthe car on the scale to see what spring rate i should used. Not sure if i can get a non progressive spring for the rear but i am looking into it.
All depends on how the car feels with all the different parts together but im sure i wont need to go to stiff with an XXX bar on the rear.
All depends on how the car feels with all the different parts together but im sure i wont need to go to stiff with an XXX bar on the rear.
01-04-2012, 12:43 PM
#48
im working on getting rid of the progressive springs. Found hypercoil prings, just waiting to ge tthe car on the scale to see what spring rate i should used. Not sure if i can get a non progressive spring for the rear but i am looking into it.
All depends on how the car feels with all the different parts together but im sure i wont need to go to stiff with an XXX bar on the rear.
All depends on how the car feels with all the different parts together but im sure i wont need to go to stiff with an XXX bar on the rear.
01-04-2012, 01:18 PM
#49
Or am I thinking wrong? Cause if I take the spring and put a helper under it they would be stacked up, yet nothing but the weight would hold it in there.
01-04-2012, 01:40 PM
#50
I was thinking that but how would that work? There isn't anything in the rear to keep the helper from shooting out...
Or am I thinking wrong? Cause if I take the spring and put a helper under it they would be stacked up, yet nothing but the weight would hold it in there.
Or am I thinking wrong? Cause if I take the spring and put a helper under it they would be stacked up, yet nothing but the weight would hold it in there.
Eibach Coupling Spacer - Truechoice Motorsports
So it would look like this:
A helper will give you zero spring rate. A tender will give some added spring rate, depending on what it's rated for. Essentially you'll end up with a progressive spring if you go main + tender. The picture above is a helper.