Cobalt STX Build
02-07-2012, 03:58 PM
#151
Most of the cheap kits use 6k/6k or 7k/7k. I have a suspicion that the KW use softer in the rear. It's how they typically setup their kits, and rely on valving to help.
Personally, I like running higher spring rates in the rear on a FWD car. It helps everywhere on track. 400/500 is conservative, but like I said, it's easier to go more later, and it sucks to go too high to start with. I wouldn't go softer in back though...
Personally, I like running higher spring rates in the rear on a FWD car. It helps everywhere on track. 400/500 is conservative, but like I said, it's easier to go more later, and it sucks to go too high to start with. I wouldn't go softer in back though...
If i go with what you say I would go 448 front and 506 rear. Thats just the way swifts come in a 60mm ID 9" long.
Im alway waiting on powel to get some XXX bars made and in stock.
02-07-2012, 06:39 PM
#152
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So, going by what wangspeed said about the stockers and pedders claim of "30% stiffer then stock" the pedder would be 585 lbs at 2" compression. But, that assuming pedders number is accurate and not just maketing bs. I still say 10k front 12k rear and buy a couple sway bars to fine tune it.
02-07-2012, 10:01 PM
#154
So, going by what wangspeed said about the stockers and pedders claim of "30% stiffer then stock" the pedder would be 585 lbs at 2" compression. But, that assuming pedders number is accurate and not just maketing bs. I still say 10k front 12k rear and buy a couple sway bars to fine tune it.
10kg/mm front is pretty high. Probably okay for a smooth track, but I think you would be skipping on an autox course. Same goes for the rears. They're not unreasonable for a smooth track, but I bet it gets annoying on a small lot. Plus I'm not sure if the KW v2 can even control spring rates that high very well. I'm guessing no.
02-08-2012, 09:12 AM
#156
all good info either way. 8k front and 9k rear might be the numbers... Playing around with the rear KWs and they are quite nice! I dont have to remove them to adjust the rebound like I did with the konis.
Thanks for all the help and talk on here quys! Hard doing something no one else has... maybe for good reason? lol
Thanks for all the help and talk on here quys! Hard doing something no one else has... maybe for good reason? lol
02-08-2012, 02:30 PM
#159
When you sort out the spring mess, maybe I'll go the same route :P
Half tempted to go AST 4100 and wait, but I shouldn't... The KW v2 route would be cheaper. Really I just have 2 reasons I want to do it. One is to lighten the strut weight up front, and the other is to increase spring rates, mostly in the rear. Pedders are soft in the back. I notice it most when I have a passenger in back or trunk full of crap. My FXR retros start blinding people, even though I have them aimed low for empty load.
Half tempted to go AST 4100 and wait, but I shouldn't... The KW v2 route would be cheaper. Really I just have 2 reasons I want to do it. One is to lighten the strut weight up front, and the other is to increase spring rates, mostly in the rear. Pedders are soft in the back. I notice it most when I have a passenger in back or trunk full of crap. My FXR retros start blinding people, even though I have them aimed low for empty load.
02-08-2012, 03:16 PM
#160
When you sort out the spring mess, maybe I'll go the same route :P
Half tempted to go AST 4100 and wait, but I shouldn't... The KW v2 route would be cheaper. Really I just have 2 reasons I want to do it. One is to lighten the strut weight up front, and the other is to increase spring rates, mostly in the rear. Pedders are soft in the back. I notice it most when I have a passenger in back or trunk full of crap. My FXR retros start blinding people, even though I have them aimed low for empty load.
Half tempted to go AST 4100 and wait, but I shouldn't... The KW v2 route would be cheaper. Really I just have 2 reasons I want to do it. One is to lighten the strut weight up front, and the other is to increase spring rates, mostly in the rear. Pedders are soft in the back. I notice it most when I have a passenger in back or trunk full of crap. My FXR retros start blinding people, even though I have them aimed low for empty load.
02-08-2012, 06:46 PM
#161
Softer in the rear is how most cars come, it has to do with the oscillation in the suspension, if the front and rear are equal bumps feel killer because the waves from the oscillation match up and the amplitudes double. You have to get the ratio just right or else it really sucks to drive. For street driven cars I typically recommend being softer in the rear than the front still for a comfort thing.
02-08-2012, 10:15 PM
#162
haha i thought about ASTs but like you sau KW V2s with different springs all together will cost me less than 2grand. Compared to 4-6G for a custom setup. I think I have an idea now what to do. when I get them in ill let everyone know. still a few months till racing starts up here in wisconsin to really test them out though.
02-08-2012, 10:34 PM
#163
I am using stock as of right now. I emailed GC to make sure the 3 post mount would fit a cobalt. Still waiting on a reply. That maybe a mod for next season, kart and Autox budget... Gota keep within it. Might just go with camber bolts for now.
02-09-2012, 08:02 AM
#164
Well when I emailed them they would be a bit more just cause they would be a custom setup.
I am using stock as of right now. I emailed GC to make sure the 3 post mount would fit a cobalt. Still waiting on a reply. That maybe a mod for next season, kart and Autox budget... Gota keep within it. Might just go with camber bolts for now.
I am using stock as of right now. I emailed GC to make sure the 3 post mount would fit a cobalt. Still waiting on a reply. That maybe a mod for next season, kart and Autox budget... Gota keep within it. Might just go with camber bolts for now.
02-09-2012, 09:55 AM
#165
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...p/II=135/CA=97
this is the one i emailed them on.
Last edited by madcitySS; 02-09-2012 at 10:05 AM.
02-09-2012, 02:00 PM
#166
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Thanks. I plan to follow this thread closely. I have autox'ed for a few years, but never in a fwd so this will be a new learning curve.
02-10-2012, 09:21 AM
#170
alright, talked to evasive motorsports on my springs and they will be on order soon. They were told by swift to go with a 65mm ID spring cause the 60mm wont fit on that car.
I am going with 9k up front and 10k in the rear.
The reason I picked these rates.... BC coilovers run 8K springs all around, I wanted to go a bit stiffer than that all around.
I am going with 9k up front and 10k in the rear.
The reason I picked these rates.... BC coilovers run 8K springs all around, I wanted to go a bit stiffer than that all around.
02-10-2012, 09:25 AM
#171
The most advice I can give to a new autocrosser is RACE IT STOCK!!! Get used to it, find out what the car likes, and doesnt like. Know your car before you change anything!! In the 1 1/2 years I have had my cobalt i have about 48 events total on the car with race tires and street tires.
02-10-2012, 09:54 PM
#172
did they give you a part number at all? Those would be a lot better than camber bolts but also expensive lol. I may have to put these in the budget.
Ground Control - Camber/Caster Plate, 3 Bolt (Pair)
this is the one i emailed them on.
Ground Control - Camber/Caster Plate, 3 Bolt (Pair)
this is the one i emailed them on.
I confirmed by emailing and asking about it. Try emailing and following up with a call.
02-13-2012, 09:52 AM
#173
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The most advice I can give to a new autocrosser is RACE IT STOCK!!! Get used to it, find out what the car likes, and doesnt like. Know your car before you change anything!! In the 1 1/2 years I have had my cobalt i have about 48 events total on the car with race tires and street tires.
. I have autocrossed on and off since I was 16. But all of my experience has been in RWD platforms with the majority of time being in my Turbo II powered 1st gen rx-7 or my dad's BEGi turbo'ed miata lol. The Cobalt I bought already has light mods that I will run with but planning to take it slow on further mods.