HPS pads is not good enough!
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads/chevy.html <--- isn't that CT1379 for the brembos?
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads/chevy.html <--- isn't that CT1379 for the brembos?
If you are looking for a wide variety of performance brake pads, contact Danny Puskar at CarboTech (www.CTBrakes.com). They offer everything from high performance street pads to full on race pads.
Feff
Feff
If you are looking for a wide variety of performance brake pads, contact Danny Puskar at CarboTech (www.CTBrakes.com). They offer everything from high performance street pads to full on race pads.
Feff
Feff
If your braking came back, that's my interpretation. If it didn't come back 100% after a cool-down period, I'd say check fluid level and clarity and start hunting for leaks. I lost all pressure once after a full day. Turns out when I checked the fluid in the AM inspection, I didn't tighten the cap completely and fluid had been leaking out all day.
But if visual inspection of rotors and pads is okay, mechanical inspection is everything is to spec (caliper doesn't shake or shim, still have proper clearance and clamping force), and after cool down, you've returned to normal performance, you should be good.
But if visual inspection of rotors and pads is okay, mechanical inspection is everything is to spec (caliper doesn't shake or shim, still have proper clearance and clamping force), and after cool down, you've returned to normal performance, you should be good.
That has happened to me a couple times
!
Your pad went past it's designed heat range. Time to upgrade to a track only pad my friend. Or limit yourself to 3 hot laps at a time followed by a cooldown lap.
Make sure to inspect your pads for any kind of "flaking" or seperation of pad material and the backing plate. And bleed the fluid in the calipers before your next session.
Your pad went past it's designed heat range. Time to upgrade to a track only pad my friend. Or limit yourself to 3 hot laps at a time followed by a cooldown lap.
Make sure to inspect your pads for any kind of "flaking" or seperation of pad material and the backing plate. And bleed the fluid in the calipers before your next session.
Venom let us know if you get a reply!
I have not had a single issue with my brakes yet other than my pads getting worn.
I know Venom is a lot harder than I on brakes, but for most people the stock pads perform quite admirably.
Hence why I ordered a set of stock pads for replacement.
Good call.
The stock pads are better than HPS.
I was hoping to get some GS5's from Satisfied Motorsports - that is what I use on my Cobra for the street - but they do not have any for the SS/TC yet.
Still waiting for feedback from Carbotech. XP8 or XP10??
If I do not hear anything by the weekend I am ordering the stock pads.
The stock pads are better than HPS.
I was hoping to get some GS5's from Satisfied Motorsports - that is what I use on my Cobra for the street - but they do not have any for the SS/TC yet.
Still waiting for feedback from Carbotech. XP8 or XP10??
If I do not hear anything by the weekend I am ordering the stock pads.
Good call.
The stock pads are better than HPS.
I was hoping to get some GS5's from Satisfied Motorsports - that is what I use on my Cobra for the street - but they do not have any for the SS/TC yet.
Still waiting for feedback from Carbotech. XP8 or XP10??
If I do not hear anything by the weekend I am ordering the stock pads.
The stock pads are better than HPS.
I was hoping to get some GS5's from Satisfied Motorsports - that is what I use on my Cobra for the street - but they do not have any for the SS/TC yet.
Still waiting for feedback from Carbotech. XP8 or XP10??
If I do not hear anything by the weekend I am ordering the stock pads.
Northvibe I am on the track every week with these brakes ( ya its on a Redline and its lighter but what the heck?) but I can tell you the stock ferodo on brembos are awesome...OGC I have watched track side he does a heck of a driving job and mark Wilkins of AIM Daytona Prototype fame has driven OGC's car, so not an ez life. Stock pads are fine. If you really want to extend pad life , you can buy some brake cooling ducts from me I should have them made in a couple of week, got the blanks made and ready for welding just need time to gitter dun....
That has happened to me a couple times
!
Your pad went past it's designed heat range. Time to upgrade to a track only pad my friend. Or limit yourself to 3 hot laps at a time followed by a cooldown lap.
Make sure to inspect your pads for any kind of "flaking" or seperation of pad material and the backing plate. And bleed the fluid in the calipers before your next session.
Your pad went past it's designed heat range. Time to upgrade to a track only pad my friend. Or limit yourself to 3 hot laps at a time followed by a cooldown lap.
Make sure to inspect your pads for any kind of "flaking" or seperation of pad material and the backing plate. And bleed the fluid in the calipers before your next session.
Symptoms:
-Hard pedal
-No braking (very little)
-Brakes will often come back on the very next braking zone
-few if any physical symptoms of overheating (flaking, bluing, strong odor)
On the autocross course, we've had some issues with that as well. Found out that the ABS DOES NOT like it when you lift the inside rear under braking (Not sure where the nickname came from, but we call it "ice mode").
Symptoms:
-Hard pedal
-No braking (very little)
-Brakes will often come back on the very next braking zone
-few if any physical symptoms of overheating (flaking, bluing, strong odor)
Symptoms:
-Hard pedal
-No braking (very little)
-Brakes will often come back on the very next braking zone
-few if any physical symptoms of overheating (flaking, bluing, strong odor)
Special thanks to one of my sponsers, Rho Can Mc & Tool, for my new OEM front pads. I bedded them in already and changed all the fluids in preperation for Event #6 of the 2009 Canadian Solosprint Championship on Mosport GP this weekend, Aug 22nd/23rd.
No solosprint allows unlimited brake modifications without points.
Simply put stainless lines arent needed on the TC.
If brake fade was a major problem then yes, but it isnt, the system works flawlessly in my experience.
if the rear wheel lifts and stops rotating for 3-5 seconds (seems to vary) the abs lite may set as the motionless wheel is interpreted by the abs ecu algorithm as a ground fault( no signal ) and may turn off abs. For racing when that happens we build in a re-set switch and for race teams there were different racing abs cals ( wont get those no more at the new GM, no Peformance division). You can drive around it, and smooth drivers (who are faster anyway) may lift rear wheels but dont have the issue....disabling abs is easy, but may change brake balance and that may not work for you.....


