I need some advice to get more oversteer.

My current setup:
06 SS/SC
Powell Hardcore rear sway bar
Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires
GM Stage 3
Pressure: 43F, 47R

Everything else is stock

Yesterday at autocross, I still couldn't get the tail out at all. I consider myself having a moderately aggressive driving style. I think my time is acceptable (beat a Mazdaspeed 3 on R comps). Any advice is appreciated!

 

rear koni yellow, adjust rebound to stiff, will allow rear to move on corner entry

 

Buy LSx car = solved

 

Front camber. Don't understand why noone does the free mod. Also, overdriving the car can cause it to push, lift throttle to turn, car should rotate. Hard to explain much further than that on the internet, but a lot of understeer is caused by overdriving.

Back in the day when I was autocrossing a Contour SVT in GS and then STS, I ran 80-90 psi at times in the rear tires. Sounds crazy, but it worked to kill much of the understeer the car had.

 

Agree with Mark, more camber, but I never could get the car to rotate like I wanted with only the hardcore bar. I moved up to the XXX, and it's better now. I may pee my pants a little when I go up the esses at VIR next though.

 

I will try to add camber, but the alignment shop told me it is maxed out for my setup? (i will ask for the exact measurement) What camber should i set at so it will maintain reasonable wear for daily driving?

I used to overdrive the front tire but now I always brake ahead and lift throttle for the turn in. But I find the car not neutral enough for the rapid transitions.

 

I have been running -2.8 all summer, and if you are reasonable with the toe setting, the tire wear isn't too bad, especially if you drive fairly aggressively. Braking wasn't affected, but forward bite did seem to suffer a bit, was still able to get a 13.1 @ 110 out of the car, but noticeably worse traction.

Your camber is likely "maxed out for your setup", they can't get much from the factory. Not sure how the SS/SC is, but the SS/TC has a strut mod approved from GM, you elongate the upper strut holes (there is a pronounced circle or oval outside the holes in the strut, open up to those). I actually did both holes, which wouldn't be legal for stock class, but legal for STX and DSP.

Some have also made camber plates work.

 

my setup right now on street tires is

Koni Yellows rear
39psi front
41 psi rear and hawk HP+ rear pads
1.8 front camber

Car rotates perfect when drivign right. Like Mark said if you havedrive the car it will tend to push so before you make and BIG changes to the car try to clam it down and become consistent in your times.

 

run a crappier rear tire...

 

i have the hardcore rear bar and i have no issues with over steer auto crossing. with pedders maybe you need some different springs.

 

rip the e brake

 

so how much camber should I run in the front while maintaining reasonable wear?

I think the GM competitive spec is -1.5 front and back. Should I go with that? it is -1.05F -0.8R stock I believe

 

hey penguin In Richmond sent you an email. Give me a ring Sunday maybe we can meet up if you are free....

 

you gotta get my spherical cabs. the camber goes away no matter what you set it at, when the stock soft trailing flca bushing collapses on itself and the outer tire rib is overworked.

 

replied =)

 

^^^ditto lol

 

not to start anything but out of curiosity what is the difference if any between your cabs and ottp's cabs?

 

i make them. they purchased ( if you can call it that) some . I dont do business with them anymore.

 

ok thats what i thought. so they are identical. how much are yours? shipped to 09012?

 

sorry I did not see your question I have been travelling. PM or email John@powellraceshop.com