Autocross and Road Racing Road racing is not “street racing”

Third gear exploded :(

Old Nov 13, 2012 | 06:34 PM
  #26  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921
ahh. that would explain it. i have no idea why i put parts.
I do have a raceparts.com address , just have not been using it. I will get it sorted out as B rad and I find the time to fix the website and get it more charming for folks to use...
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:22 PM
  #27  
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yeah i could have sworn i got it from the contacts us. but i looked and it says shop. so im lost as to why i put parts.
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:09 PM
  #28  
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Car is at the shop, and so is the "new" transmission. Was an adventure getting into it and moving it from one trailer to another, because some asshat forgot the keys at home... 2 dealerships later, I had a key, but no fob, so we opened the doors, disconnected the battery, left key in to disable steering lock, and used a tractor to load it up. Used the Powell tow hook on the front, which made it a lot easier.

I need to figure out a better solution for towing though. I used the wheels for the fronts, and crossed them, and used shipping holes in the back, straight forward. Don't like pulling sideways on the wheels like that though. John, or anyone else? I don't mind the shipping holes in back, but I want to reinforce them, or install a small hook, tucked up high.



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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:33 PM
  #29  
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From: Port Perry
for all our race cars we pull off the front wheels individually straight forward as much as possible low in the spokes. dont want to cross the front the wheels try to steer if you do. use short 2 ft d ring straps for the wheels with a protective cushion on the strap .

at the rear DONT tie off to the body slots it will rip the hooks out of the body as the car bounces on the springs. DO cross the rear to stop the rear from travelling. Tie off to the twisting V beam and around the trailing pivot, there is still movement but it is minimal.

On Corvettes same at the front, and use the cradle/control arm each side at the rear. etc.

ideally you would strap around the tire, I did that on my formula cars, but then they can work off the tire and tire can also go flat which is not good. Formula cars are more difficult and for extended travel the suspension works too much. We used travel wheels and foam undertrays at one point on single seater transport.

it never ends. Did you figure out the quaife yet?

Good luck, you sure got lots going on right now...parts shipment this week to you..
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #30  
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Yeah, i tied it low on the spokes in front, but it's a pain if it happens to be at the valve. I somehow got unlucky and managed to have this happen on both sides when the trailer was correctly loaded.

Are you using long axle straps to go around the V beam? I need to get some new ones. Mine suck. I've seen some nice padded ones available. Borrowed some to get my mess back home.

Shop hasn't had a chance to take a look at the trans yet. Will found out tomorrow, hopefully, but Jeff thinks it's ok from the stamping.
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 10:45 PM
  #31  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Wangspeed
Yeah, i tied it low on the spokes in front, but it's a pain if it happens to be at the valve. I somehow got unlucky and managed to have this happen on both sides when the trailer was correctly loaded.

Are you using long axle straps to go around the V beam? I need to get some new ones. Mine suck. I've seen some nice padded ones available. Borrowed some to get my mess back home.

Shop hasn't had a chance to take a look at the trans yet. Will found out tomorrow, hopefully, but Jeff thinks it's ok from the stamping.
no need to take it apart just look through the axle holes.lol

i use short d ring straps around the beam and then tie downs to the straps same at front. I grab two spokes at a time to avoid the tire valve.. with PF01 its a snap lol
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 11:33 PM
  #32  
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I think the trans is still boxed up or wrapped on a pallet. I need some longer axle straps. Mine are too short. I think they are 18". The ones I borrowed were 30", I think, and they worked well enough. MAC makes what looks like the best ones so far.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 12:26 AM
  #33  
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Good luck with the rebuild.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #34  
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No pin confirmed All set to go for later this week.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #35  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Wangspeed
No pin confirmed All set to go for later this week.
U be Golden!!!!!! just varsol washed your trapdoor pan, cleaned it and then hot tank scrubbed it. Plan is coming together....
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 11:33 PM
  #36  
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Trans is swapped. Feels pretty good. Haven't beat on it yet though. Process was fairly easy, since we didn't bother taking the old clutch out. Just swapped the trans housings.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #37  
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I wonder how much torque at the wheels you had. I remember us talking and you thought you had 315whp, so at least that much torque and probably more....well the car took a beating for a while...good to see you got it fixed. Did you ever figure out that tuning issue with it knocking? I don't know what's going to go first on mine the trans or motor lol we will have to see. Keep the vids coming next year!
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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That was my worry that the trans wouldnt last so I dont do the NLS on the race track. But then Road America is all third and fourth gear and thats a pretty quick shift anyway.

Good luck with the new one.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 10:19 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 395 plus
That was my worry that the trans wouldnt last so I dont do the NLS on the race track. But then Road America is all third and fourth gear and thats a pretty quick shift anyway.

Good luck with the new one.
All I was using was 3/4 at VIR and Summit. I was topping out at 140, according to AIM Solo, track meter. Now I'll actually need 5th.
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