Types of rotors used?
09-16-2012, 04:03 PM
#1
Types of rotors used?
Hey just wanted a Idea of what type of rotors your guys that track your cars are using. I read a thread on a new brake pad and i guess cross drilled is bad with surface cracking?? just wanted some insight form guys who hit the track if just for a weekend thing... also are you using the Gm after style rotors or power slot?
09-16-2012, 04:24 PM
#6
ordered the Th motorsports brake line and clutch line set, clutch line in yellow brake line in black, tryin to build my cars together to aviod issues i dnt want to do a hub swap. sumone said no point n getting wider tires so i guess im sticking with the 18x8's might get the PF01's...
09-16-2012, 05:55 PM
#8
ordered the Th motorsports brake line and clutch line set, clutch line in yellow brake line in black, tryin to build my cars together to aviod issues i dnt want to do a hub swap. sumone said no point n getting wider tires so i guess im sticking with the 18x8's might get the PF01's...
no theres no point in WIDE tires like auto x guys use but wider could definately help. and theres no point in anything larger then a 235 on a stock rim. i run a 245 40 18 on a 18x9.
coleman rotors with ferrodo pads up front for track use and i just swap pads to cheapo pads for the street but use the same rotors , ac delco rotors out back with ac delco pads have proved to be just fine.
then i run motul fluid all the time and i bleed the brakes before every track event flush at the end of the track season. this setups never failed me.
09-16-2012, 11:15 PM
#9
Stock or Centric premiums, which are the same as the R1 premium. No slots, no drilled holes.
Here are my stock rotors after some track abuse.
If they were drilled, they would be split all the way through, and risk massive brake failure. But instead, these hold together just fine, and last for many brutal track outings.
Here are my stock rotors after some track abuse.
If they were drilled, they would be split all the way through, and risk massive brake failure. But instead, these hold together just fine, and last for many brutal track outings.
09-17-2012, 06:29 PM
#11
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This is what happens to a cross-drilled rotor after ~4 hard laps on track on a rear rotor (car came with them, thought they would be OK on the rear), on a car that is by no means underbraked (C5 Z06)...
Slotted aren't much better. Leave the drilled and slotted for the "stanced" crowd.
Slotted aren't much better. Leave the drilled and slotted for the "stanced" crowd.
03-28-2013, 04:19 AM
#16
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I'm using Powerslot Slotted rotors on my car right now and they are holding up great. I have been using Carbotech AX6 pads (They are made more for Autocross than track racing but are working fine for me. Might try an XP8 or XP10). I've been racing mostly at Stratotech in Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta which is known for being extremely hard on brakes due to being a short track with lots of tight corners (brakes don't get enough time to cool down properly between corners).
I've learned a few things about braking from this track. Stainless brake lines are a must, Having a good fluid like DOT 5.1 or a High Heat DOT 4 is a must (I still managed to boil both by the 9th lap. I have to get those stainless lines and figure out why I'm boiling every time!), and having a proper track pad for your car is a must too.
I looked at getting replacement factory pads for the brembos and the dealer wanted almost 400 bucks for a set... Fuuuuuck that. So I put Hawk HPS on when I'm driving on the street, then I switch to a track pad just before the track day. Works great for me.
You guys still using stock pads, do you ever get any brake fade? How hard are you braking? What is the track like that you are racing on? I found the stock pads good, but I've been told they can't match a good track pad for bite and fade resistance. Unfortunately my pads were worn out before I raced at Stratotech for the first time, so I never got to try them out.
I've learned a few things about braking from this track. Stainless brake lines are a must, Having a good fluid like DOT 5.1 or a High Heat DOT 4 is a must (I still managed to boil both by the 9th lap. I have to get those stainless lines and figure out why I'm boiling every time!), and having a proper track pad for your car is a must too.
I looked at getting replacement factory pads for the brembos and the dealer wanted almost 400 bucks for a set... Fuuuuuck that. So I put Hawk HPS on when I'm driving on the street, then I switch to a track pad just before the track day. Works great for me.
You guys still using stock pads, do you ever get any brake fade? How hard are you braking? What is the track like that you are racing on? I found the stock pads good, but I've been told they can't match a good track pad for bite and fade resistance. Unfortunately my pads were worn out before I raced at Stratotech for the first time, so I never got to try them out.
03-28-2013, 04:24 AM
#17
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Stock or Centric premiums, which are the same as the R1 premium. No slots, no drilled holes.
Here are my stock rotors after some track abuse.
If they were drilled, they would be split all the way through, and risk massive brake failure. But instead, these hold together just fine, and last for many brutal track outings.
Here are my stock rotors after some track abuse.
If they were drilled, they would be split all the way through, and risk massive brake failure. But instead, these hold together just fine, and last for many brutal track outings.
03-28-2013, 04:26 AM
#18
ordered the Th motorsports brake line and clutch line set, clutch line in yellow brake line in black, tryin to build my cars together to aviod issues i dnt want to do a hub swap. sumone said no point n getting wider tires so i guess im sticking with the 18x8's might get the PF01's...
Last edited by Omnigear; 03-28-2013 at 04:26 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
04-19-2013, 09:33 AM
#19
For the guys who track and DD their cars. I want to eventually make it to a separate set of pads/rotors for street vs. track use. Have you had any problems with swapping them? Do you swap just the pads or pads and rotors?
04-20-2013, 01:27 PM
#20
I use Hawk DTC-70 on all 4 corners with a separate set of rotors for the track. That way you don;'t have the re-bed your brakes every time.
@Pyrosiege do you upgrade only your front brakes with track pads?
You may be overheating your front brakes by changing the brake balance if you're running a mediocre pad in the rear. Try changing out the rears with the same pad.
All my rotors are solid.
Also, if you track you Cobalt hard, you will need to rebuild your Brembos on a regular basis. All the rubber boots and rings will melt at extreme high temps. Check them when you swap out pads. crateenginedepot sells the rebuild kits.
I use Prospeed brake fluid which has a boiling point of 683F. Highest on the market today.
@Pyrosiege do you upgrade only your front brakes with track pads?
You may be overheating your front brakes by changing the brake balance if you're running a mediocre pad in the rear. Try changing out the rears with the same pad.
All my rotors are solid.
Also, if you track you Cobalt hard, you will need to rebuild your Brembos on a regular basis. All the rubber boots and rings will melt at extreme high temps. Check them when you swap out pads. crateenginedepot sells the rebuild kits.
I use Prospeed brake fluid which has a boiling point of 683F. Highest on the market today.
06-11-2013, 01:10 AM
#21
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That's funny. Because a lot of very experienced people have said Stratotech is harder on brakes than longer tracks. So technically, "Big Boy Track's," are easier on brakes because they allow the brakes to cool more between corners.
I use Hawk DTC-70 on all 4 corners with a separate set of rotors for the track. That way you don;'t have the re-bed your brakes every time.
@Pyrosiege do you upgrade only your front brakes with track pads?
You may be overheating your front brakes by changing the brake balance if you're running a mediocre pad in the rear. Try changing out the rears with the same pad.
All my rotors are solid.
Also, if you track you Cobalt hard, you will need to rebuild your Brembos on a regular basis. All the rubber boots and rings will melt at extreme high temps. Check them when you swap out pads. crateenginedepot sells the rebuild kits.
I use Prospeed brake fluid which has a boiling point of 683F. Highest on the market today.
@Pyrosiege do you upgrade only your front brakes with track pads?
You may be overheating your front brakes by changing the brake balance if you're running a mediocre pad in the rear. Try changing out the rears with the same pad.
All my rotors are solid.
Also, if you track you Cobalt hard, you will need to rebuild your Brembos on a regular basis. All the rubber boots and rings will melt at extreme high temps. Check them when you swap out pads. crateenginedepot sells the rebuild kits.
I use Prospeed brake fluid which has a boiling point of 683F. Highest on the market today.
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely look into rebuild kits, my Brembos are a little on the rough side right now. Also, I think ill try putting the equivalent pads on front and rear, maybe that will spread the heat out a bit more. I'll think about having a separate set of rotors for the street vs the track, too.
06-11-2013, 01:26 AM
#22
That's funny. Because a lot of very experienced people have said Stratotech is harder on brakes than longer tracks. So technically, "Big Boy Track's," are easier on brakes because they allow the brakes to cool more between corners.
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely look into rebuild kits, my Brembos are a little on the rough side right now. Also, I think ill try putting the equivalent pads on front and rear, maybe that will spread the heat out a bit more. I'll think about having a separate set of rotors for the street vs the track, too.
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely look into rebuild kits, my Brembos are a little on the rough side right now. Also, I think ill try putting the equivalent pads on front and rear, maybe that will spread the heat out a bit more. I'll think about having a separate set of rotors for the street vs the track, too.
06-28-2013, 03:33 PM
#23
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely look into rebuild kits, my Brembos are a little on the rough side right now. Also, I think ill try putting the equivalent pads on front and rear, maybe that will spread the heat out a bit more. I'll think about having a separate set of rotors for the street vs the track, too.
5280cobalts.com
06-28-2013, 03:59 PM
#24
colodude18: Great write up. I'll probably be hitting this up at some point. I have 2 days at Watkins Glen coming up, I'm guessing I'll be doing this at some point after that.
07-05-2013, 08:42 PM
#25
I have 9 track days (road courses) on PowerSlot slotted front rotors from TireRack and they've held up well. I'm now seeing more severe heat checking (almost as bad as Wangspeed's), so I'm done with them. I've been using CarboTech XP10s since day 1. For the rears, I had been using cheap street pads for 7 days, but didn't like the bias and having to "chase" the rear end in heavy braking zones. So I started using XP10s on solid rotors on the rear. 2 days on that setup and really happy with it.
Also, since somebody asked, I use different rotors and pads between street and track, of course.
Also, since somebody asked, I use different rotors and pads between street and track, of course.