WARNING to autocrossers!
03-22-2010, 01:15 PM
#105
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It is not the tech inspectors job to determine if your car is within the rules except for weight and other major stuff, like safety items. It is the responsibility of your fellow competitiors to insure you are within the rules and protest if need be.
I work tech a lot at local level events and my only concern is weather the car is safe. At national or pro level events it is more strict, but the same.
To be honest you would probably get away with a swap. Only worry is running into a fellow competitor who happens to know about these things.
Just putting larger tires/slicks on the car does not mean you need the comp knuckles. The more heavy duty comp knuckle protects against falure during shock loads, ie curbs and off's
I work tech a lot at local level events and my only concern is weather the car is safe. At national or pro level events it is more strict, but the same.
To be honest you would probably get away with a swap. Only worry is running into a fellow competitor who happens to know about these things.
Just putting larger tires/slicks on the car does not mean you need the comp knuckles. The more heavy duty comp knuckle protects against falure during shock loads, ie curbs and off's
03-24-2010, 02:53 AM
#107
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Could we run this setup on the stock knuckles?
03-24-2010, 11:06 AM
#109
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There's no way to get any caster adjustment on these vehicles (except, perhaps to hit a curb at speed and bump the lower control arm back -- not a desirable option -- been there, done that). If you want to mod the front end and put VW camber plates up front from Ground Control (see the article on the Cobalt racers -- drill new mounting holes) -- you can get a little more caster.
Yes, I've run "this setup" -- with no problems. I had an 06 Redline that I ran in DS and later in DSP -- never changed the steering knuckles and ran the car more than 80 times, me and co-drivers (including at National Tour events in Texas and California), with no problems.
Is it possible that steering knuckles fail, yes it is -- but it's possible that anything can fail. I haven't had an engine failure, but some people have, I haven't had any electrical failures, but some people have, I haven't had any problems with my rear brake rotors, but some people have. Would I change the steering knuckles if I was road racing, yes I would --- but that's a very different ball game -- I'd change a lot more than just steering knuckles if I was road racing.
I did the strut grind (as specified by GM) and ran as much as 3.5 degrees of negative camber without problems and all legally according to SCCA (I checked).
I also had the rears shimmed out to 2.5 degrees of negative camber and a tiny bit of toe out without any problems, also legal (this can't be done on the 08 or later Cobalts -- different caliper mounting than on the older Cobalts and Redlines -- on the older cars the brake caliper and hub were all mounted as a single piece, so if you shimmed the hub the rear brake caliper and rotor was also shimmed).
I now have an 09 Cobalt that I run in DSP -- as has been stated, the newer model knuckles are stronger -- but to continue the discussion, I've had no problems over the past year or so of running with SCCA (again, this isn't road racing, this is SOLO II -- autocross).
I also have Koni Yellow struts and shocks; I use Ground Control coil over kits (with Torrington bearings); I run a variety of Eibach, Hypercoil, and Swift coilover springs in various lengths and strengths (depends on the need); I use Gravana's Pillow Ball (B&G) camber plates (that I modified to use with the Koni struts); I have both a 3/4" add-on rear swaybar and I have an OTTP Hardcore bar on order (I've been waiting since last January to receive the bar); I have a GMS1; Hahn cold air; after-market straight through glasspack (rather than stock); and I've slightly modified a 'Stiffy' to work on my Cobalt -- otherwise, it's a stock 09 Cobalt SS.
Scott
Yes, I've run "this setup" -- with no problems. I had an 06 Redline that I ran in DS and later in DSP -- never changed the steering knuckles and ran the car more than 80 times, me and co-drivers (including at National Tour events in Texas and California), with no problems.
Is it possible that steering knuckles fail, yes it is -- but it's possible that anything can fail. I haven't had an engine failure, but some people have, I haven't had any electrical failures, but some people have, I haven't had any problems with my rear brake rotors, but some people have. Would I change the steering knuckles if I was road racing, yes I would --- but that's a very different ball game -- I'd change a lot more than just steering knuckles if I was road racing.
I did the strut grind (as specified by GM) and ran as much as 3.5 degrees of negative camber without problems and all legally according to SCCA (I checked).
I also had the rears shimmed out to 2.5 degrees of negative camber and a tiny bit of toe out without any problems, also legal (this can't be done on the 08 or later Cobalts -- different caliper mounting than on the older Cobalts and Redlines -- on the older cars the brake caliper and hub were all mounted as a single piece, so if you shimmed the hub the rear brake caliper and rotor was also shimmed).
I now have an 09 Cobalt that I run in DSP -- as has been stated, the newer model knuckles are stronger -- but to continue the discussion, I've had no problems over the past year or so of running with SCCA (again, this isn't road racing, this is SOLO II -- autocross).
I also have Koni Yellow struts and shocks; I use Ground Control coil over kits (with Torrington bearings); I run a variety of Eibach, Hypercoil, and Swift coilover springs in various lengths and strengths (depends on the need); I use Gravana's Pillow Ball (B&G) camber plates (that I modified to use with the Koni struts); I have both a 3/4" add-on rear swaybar and I have an OTTP Hardcore bar on order (I've been waiting since last January to receive the bar); I have a GMS1; Hahn cold air; after-market straight through glasspack (rather than stock); and I've slightly modified a 'Stiffy' to work on my Cobalt -- otherwise, it's a stock 09 Cobalt SS.
Scott
04-08-2011, 05:42 PM
#114
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Sorry to resurrect this thread but I'm looking at getting these for my 08 LT but I have a few questions. One my car is my daily driver, are these steering knuckles ok to use as a DD? I wouldn't see why not but I want to ask just to clarify. Another question; I talked to my dealer about getting these (just to see what they would say) And after about 15 minutes on hold the service guy came back on and said that I would have to get new bearings, new bushings etc. When I told him to be a little more specific as to why he clammed up. What is he talking about? Another thing is that I am also planning to get the FE5 control arms and I was told that these steering knuckles will only work with the pre 2008 control arms. Is this true? Any and all info anyone ca give me would be awesome!
04-09-2011, 11:07 AM
#115
You don't need new bearings and bushing with them... they're just trying to push more parts (money) on you.
FE5 control arms are basically the same between LSJ and LNF, the only difference being that the Ball Joint on the LNF arm is slightly larger, so you'd need to bore out the hole on the knuckle to use them. Not a lot though... just a MM or so, iirc.
FE5 control arms are basically the same between LSJ and LNF, the only difference being that the Ball Joint on the LNF arm is slightly larger, so you'd need to bore out the hole on the knuckle to use them. Not a lot though... just a MM or so, iirc.
04-19-2012, 12:34 AM
#117
Senior Member
I baught my car used and had some mods already done to it. How do I tell if I have the stronger steering knuckles or not? The prev owner installed a ingalls tq damner and a DC Sports Strut Tower Bar
04-19-2012, 09:47 AM
#119
You don't need new bearings and bushing with them... they're just trying to push more parts (money) on you.
FE5 control arms are basically the same between LSJ and LNF, the only difference being that the Ball Joint on the LNF arm is slightly larger, so you'd need to bore out the hole on the knuckle to use them. Not a lot though... just a MM or so, iirc.
FE5 control arms are basically the same between LSJ and LNF, the only difference being that the Ball Joint on the LNF arm is slightly larger, so you'd need to bore out the hole on the knuckle to use them. Not a lot though... just a MM or so, iirc.
04-19-2012, 01:12 PM
#120
Senior Member
04-19-2012, 11:26 PM
#121
The Ingall's Torque Damper doesn't do a damn thing (other than make some annoying noises when it's really cold - being in Bama, you probably won't experience this). I had it on my car for about a year and a half back in 06-07. Using it is the equivalent of putting a tiny band-aid on a broken bone that's sticking through the skin.
As far as the Strut Tower Brace... our strut towers are built into the firewall. So there is no need for a strut tower brace, as the firewall does the bracing. STB's are more for cars that have the Strut Towers forward of and disconnected from the firewall.
As far as the Strut Tower Brace... our strut towers are built into the firewall. So there is no need for a strut tower brace, as the firewall does the bracing. STB's are more for cars that have the Strut Towers forward of and disconnected from the firewall.
04-28-2012, 07:08 AM
#125
Cobalt Competitive Driving Steering Knuckle RH 88958711
Cobalt Competitive Driving Steering Knuckle LH 88958710
If you email Tom @ CED and inform him of the price difference, he'll usually work with you. Either way, CED is a great vendor that is highly active in our community. For that, I'll gladly pay a bit more for parts from them.