Ok so i wanted to start a new thread so the other one doesnt get to far off topic of the dyno.

So last week i came into a parking lot abit to fast and bottomed out. I thought it was just the CA H/E hose coming loose because there was coolant leaking. I was wrong. I have to refill my coolant tank about every 200kms or so. So i checked it this morning. I believe its part of the frame (black bar) that comes to bolt up with the stock h/e. Somewheres above the frame on the h/e there is a crack and thats where it is leaking from. I thought maybe some type of sealant might work, cant remember what the name is but the guy at canadian tire was telling me about it. But its at a place i cant even get at unless i take my bumper and CA H/E off.

Of course this just happends at a really bad time, since i just got my bike and money is going towards payments on that and the insurence, plus i need to buy new tires for the car. Also my ass needs to be back to NB today. So i got a couple options

A. Bring the car to James at Raven's and let him take a stab at it, which will cost me an arm and a leg, esp. if he needs to order me a new h/e. Leaves me without a car for abit which means i have to take the bike to NB.

B. Leave the the car here and get someone to drive the car to Oregans tomorrow and maybe have like a 1% chance they will use the warrenty...doubt they will with all the mods i got. But none of the mods caused this, but you know how dealerships are... That also involves me taking the bike in the rain to NB.

C. Drive the car to NB, risk it cracking even more and blowing everything up...might not happen but its a possibility. Drop the car off at a dealership tomorrow up there. Although i hate the dealership up there, they are the ones that put the wrong spark plugs in causing my valve cover o-rings to fry and oil leak in the spark plug bay. Then try to tell me it was caused by my Stage 2 kit.

Its rainy and cold so i dont really want to take the bike but i dont want to risk blowing the car up. So what do you guys think.

 

leave the car alone. know anyone you can take a drive with? even offer to pay the gas for it? if it wasn't for you being all the way down in halifax id go and get you and drive up (providing money for gas and such). so im sure someone must be able to drive you up to NB heck even to at least moncton and id be willing to drive you the rest of the way, but whatever you do do not drive it on the highway up to oromocto as you will blow your engine and then its thru insurance to get it fixed not the dealer.

 

Warranty won't cover you bottoming out. If you really can't afford it, since it was a driving type of accident you could make a claim on it, but that would probably be the stupidest way to do.

 

leave the car and bike there ... if i remember correctly around this time of year highway to oromocto, oromocto and fredericton start to get really wet and flood ...

and i don't think the freddy dealership is that bad, i've gotten good service there ... just avoid the miramichi one ... ask them about stage 2 they told me they don't do aftermarket and GM does not make it ... looking for a new exhaust took me a half hour to make them understand it wasn't stock and it was the GMPP ones ...

 

Damien, the crack is on the stock H/E?
if its aluminum fins somone who can weld it and your all good to go.
and how hard is it to remove the stock HE?

 

Your car won't blow up without a heat exhanger. You can drive it just fine...just don't drive like an idiot or be hard on the car. I drove an SS for a year with no intercooler system and a 2.85 pulley.

 

you also live in florida were your conditions are different then ours here

 

True.

 

i take it your not too car savy ?

sorry i didnt understand that it was the stock HE thats cracked , but all the same still aplies.

i think its safe to drive the car as long as you stay out of boost,if there is no coolent in the HE system i would pull the fuse for the intercooler pump to prevent it from burnning up.

you can buypass the stock HE and just run the Aftermarket one.



what dose that have to do with anything...

the intercooler system is separate from the rest of the engine, its a closed loop.
all it dose suck heat out of the compressed air produced form the supercharger(boost)
boost =heat= knock no boost = no heat =no knock

as long as he stays out of boost hell be fine. not unless he running a boost bypas mod, but i dont see why seeing as how he has a tune . boost shouldnt come up with less than 3/4 throttle . and even alittle boost wont hurt , i drove around about 3 months befor i relized my IC pump wasnt working , and that was summer florida, the car will detake knock and pull timing and just run slughish if you try and get on it, plus he said its cold there , he will be fine drivng it to a shop , just drive like a grandma lol.

 

Damien, take your stock one off and just run the car with the C/A one.

 

phat, it has a lot to do with anything. the fuel/air mixture is different, the sealevel is different and so on.

 

i understand that. but the only reason the IC is there is to cool the intake air when its under boost. if there is no boost then i don't see a problem , if you want to play it safe , unhook the bypass solenoid and zip tie the valve open so that the car cant make boost.

if he drives normal it will be like the supercharger isnt even there ,there by eleanating the need for the intercooler. normal being no more than half throttle and 3.5k rpm upshifts.


i need more info from the OP... are you refilling the engine coolent resivor or the IC resivor(the little kneck right infront of the supercharger?)

 

he also has a meth kit as well, incase he does hit boost, so he can drop those temps down

 

thanks for the input guys. I talked to james and some other guys today and they said the car is driveable as long as i stay out of boost as much as i can, which isnt hard. So ill drive to NB because its way to wet and cold for the bike. The decision now is what to do about the dealership. Chances are its not going to be covered. I really dont have the money to pay for this **** since i just got the bike and i am buying new tires in a couple of weeks.

So i got thinking. And im just throwing ideas out so i dont know if its possible but it might be. If i bring the car to the dealership and they CANT fix the h/e and they need to order a new one and the warrenty is no good. By the time they charge me for parts and labour its going to be a huge $$$. Wouldnt it be cheaper and smarter to go and buy a 2nd aftermarket h/e...say the OTT H/E? For example. If i took out the stock h/e which will give me about 1inch of clearence width wise. Since the CA H/E which i have now is the smallest out of whats on the market i could fit that on top and pushed back abit so it would be between the crash bar and frame/bumper. And then place the new H/E where it would normally go. That would probably be a hell of alot cheaper then going to a dealership. Its gotta be possible to do that because theres 2 h/e in there now, its just the clearence issue.

Just giving more info as i read the rest of the posts. No i havent been filling the IC resivor. Just the engine. And yea the tune is pulling timing, hence why i only hit 217whp on the dyno yesterday instead of 243 or higher. Plus the graph showed the line getting really messed up. So the car was pulling timing out so it wouldnt blow. Going to talk to the dealership and see what they say. Car also has to go to the dealerships painting place to get repainted after the car wash blew up. cobalt-man found a bolt under my windshield wiper from the car wash...lol.

 

man your having some shitty luck with that car of yours! hope you get it all figured out!

 

i know, never had this much problem with anything in my life. Do mustangs break this much? lol. they are looking really nice right now

 

This weekend they had mustangs regular 33K on sale for 25K, i was pretty tempted

 

I love the new saleen's man those are sick looking and since my step-dad worked for ford in Ontario he can get pretty much any car mark down from MSR...like try two-four thousand off maybe more:P

 

so how was the drive to Gagetown?

 

From what I know he only had to fill the car once and that was in sackville...I got him an appointment for saturay for them to look at it..because they really can't tell if that is the problem or if it is a hose or something smaller

just called oregan's and for a brand new one it will cost $480 plus labour which would put it up to $700 but I hope it is covered by wanenty or they are right and it is only something small:S

 

Warranty doesn't cover collision damage. You'd be better off filing a claim on insurance and paying the deductable and let them cover the rest. Since they're only springing for about $200 it shouldn't affect your rates.

 

ahaha...they will never know and the always seem to cover the warrenty on our car with parts that the damn well know that one thing did it but really they don't want to find out if that is it for sure

 

yea like florence said i had to refill the coolant once in sackville and again today. Gods knows when i can get to the dealership cuz i found out today im driving a tank for the Tank Crew Commanders course for the next 25 days so most likely ill be in the field the whole time. If they dont cover it by warrenty im going to try my idea and see if i can just make a dual heat exchanger

 

So is it the stock h/e that is busted, or the Cobalt addiction one? If its the stock one, just remove it and run just the C/A one.

If its the C/A that is broken, I highly recommend a OTTP heat exchanger, for $240USD

 

and it isn't from what I was told by the dealership that is the rad that is a good chance busted