Mark this thread as Unsold
For Sale: 2006 Cobalt SS 2.4 Sedan
For Sale: 2006 Cobalt SS 2.4 Sedan
Located in Pittsburgh, PA. Car is at at local car dealership. You can go see it today as I may be trading it tomorrow (Monday, the 16th) if we can agree on a trade value, which they are fooling around on me with to some degree. More on that below. Just ask and I'll tell you where it is.
2006 Cobalt SS 2.4, Auto, Sunroof, 2 Polk 10's in the trunk, 4 wheel disc with EBC pads, victory red, gray interior. Car has 70,800 to 70,900 miles on it. Somewhere between those two figures without me being there to open the door. Rear bumper has small hole from accidentally backing into a fire hydrant, passenger side is missing the trim below the door piece (online ebay for under $100) due to a storm drain incident. A lot of highway driving until I moved to the city 1 year ago, so the hood has paint chips which I have maintained over time. The front bumper is also chipped due to highway driving.
Rebuilt transaxle less than 2,000 miles ago by Army's Transmissions in Munhall, PA. Last inspection it also got a new MAF sensor. All Mobile 1 oil after the first few thousand miles. The first change I used regular Mobile.
I just changed the cabin air filter about 3-4 weeks ago. I changed the fuel filter once. I keep up on the air filter. I tried a K&N but there is an issue with these cars and too much air flow triggering an issue with the auto tranny getting upset and turning the traction control off until the car is shut off and back on again. It still happens but it's harmless otherwise.
The front rotors are Powerslot, which I thought were good, in fact I had put 4 on, but they warped and stopping will give feedback at certain speeds. The rears are normal Raybestos rotors with EBC pads. No warp there. All new struts about 10K ago, the top of the line GM ones from the Tubo/Supercharged car.
The Sunroof broke under warranty (it wouldn't shut property) and was replaced, no problems since. Only 1 of the 4 power door lock actuators works all the time. I just use manual mode, as who wants to spend money to fix that? They went after warranty.
The current issue, which I thought was a starter, is actually the ECM, which I am told by the shop who looked at it that it is fried and it will cost $300-$400 to replace. It then still needs towed to the dealer to be flashed. He said I may have some burnt up relays also. This after driving 2 blocks to the coffee shop down the street.
I'm a real estate agent and I need a car that won't do this kind of stuff to me so I'm done with it. I have a Ford Fusion Sport lined up for tomorrow. The dealer is saying he'll only give $2,000. I'm not down with that. I'm going to bump him up tomorrow when I go back in.
Until then, if anybody wants the car, they can bring cash money and pick it up tomorrow at the dealership if they're willing to go $2,500 or more. You're going to need to tow it away, be an experienced car guy, or bring one with you who can get it started, because apparently it can be started per the guy who looked at it.
Just respond and we can talk.
2006 Cobalt SS 2.4, Auto, Sunroof, 2 Polk 10's in the trunk, 4 wheel disc with EBC pads, victory red, gray interior. Car has 70,800 to 70,900 miles on it. Somewhere between those two figures without me being there to open the door. Rear bumper has small hole from accidentally backing into a fire hydrant, passenger side is missing the trim below the door piece (online ebay for under $100) due to a storm drain incident. A lot of highway driving until I moved to the city 1 year ago, so the hood has paint chips which I have maintained over time. The front bumper is also chipped due to highway driving.
Rebuilt transaxle less than 2,000 miles ago by Army's Transmissions in Munhall, PA. Last inspection it also got a new MAF sensor. All Mobile 1 oil after the first few thousand miles. The first change I used regular Mobile.
I just changed the cabin air filter about 3-4 weeks ago. I changed the fuel filter once. I keep up on the air filter. I tried a K&N but there is an issue with these cars and too much air flow triggering an issue with the auto tranny getting upset and turning the traction control off until the car is shut off and back on again. It still happens but it's harmless otherwise.
The front rotors are Powerslot, which I thought were good, in fact I had put 4 on, but they warped and stopping will give feedback at certain speeds. The rears are normal Raybestos rotors with EBC pads. No warp there. All new struts about 10K ago, the top of the line GM ones from the Tubo/Supercharged car.
The Sunroof broke under warranty (it wouldn't shut property) and was replaced, no problems since. Only 1 of the 4 power door lock actuators works all the time. I just use manual mode, as who wants to spend money to fix that? They went after warranty.
The current issue, which I thought was a starter, is actually the ECM, which I am told by the shop who looked at it that it is fried and it will cost $300-$400 to replace. It then still needs towed to the dealer to be flashed. He said I may have some burnt up relays also. This after driving 2 blocks to the coffee shop down the street.
I'm a real estate agent and I need a car that won't do this kind of stuff to me so I'm done with it. I have a Ford Fusion Sport lined up for tomorrow. The dealer is saying he'll only give $2,000. I'm not down with that. I'm going to bump him up tomorrow when I go back in.
Until then, if anybody wants the car, they can bring cash money and pick it up tomorrow at the dealership if they're willing to go $2,500 or more. You're going to need to tow it away, be an experienced car guy, or bring one with you who can get it started, because apparently it can be started per the guy who looked at it.
Just respond and we can talk.
Last edited by craig2006ssedan; May 15, 2011 at 03:10 PM.
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