Some of you may or may not know that we have 2 Cobalt's SS 06s, so far we had nothing but bad luck with them, in our first attempt at the track out of the hole @ 3,000rpm the left axle snap, on our second attempt the belt tensioner broke, with that said I'm getting very frustrated with my Cobalt's. our best time so far is 14.50 on street tires spinning all over the place.

I will like to know a few things from all of you, I need the cars to be @ 12.50 or better, so my questions are,

What Mod could you guys suggest to get the power needed to that level.
What Clutch are you guys using ? has the stock clutch be good to you ?
What have you done in the axle dept ?

Any help could be greatly apprecciated.

 

My best is 13.3. I am on stock axles, stock clutch. I launch at about 3500 depending on track conditions. I attribute my axles and clutch still being in one piece because of my mounts and tires. I run solid tranny mount, motor mount, and CABs so I don't wheelhop at all. I run a DR made by M&H that doesn't bite so hard that it puts a ton of stress on the axles. My next tire will be a slock but a slightly smaller slick than what most of these guys use. I think a little less rubber will help with breaking stuff.

 

The Driveshaft Shop has 400hp axles for sale. That should prevent any more breakage.

Like mentioned above, I would upgrade mounts and Control Arm Bushings. Tires would also help. Everyone that I have read on here breaking into the 12's has been on at least DR's and I think some have run slicks.

 

Thank you guys!

mounts and Control Arm Bushings, any brand in particular I should get ?

 

Only JBP makes the CABs currently. You can order them from JBP or Intense. The only true solid mounts I know of right now are made by BWoody. JBP and ZZP make mounts that are filled with a pretty firm Polyurethane.

What are you running for power mods?

 

What are you running for power mods?

On one of them I changed the injectors, pulley and re flashed the ecu

 

If you want to get to 12.5 I think it will take some raised compression or internal work or a change in the power adder. What size pulley and injectors are you running?

 

or you can just run the snow performance on drag radials with the 2.6 pulley , upgrade the clutch to a spec stage 3 and then do the axle work , find someone who can tune the car correctely, and some tranny mounts would not hurt either....... find a good cobalt driver who has driven the car more than just at the track. someone who has a feel for the car ...

 

12.5 is possible without raising the compression... just the stock pistions are junk .... gots to be careful

 

Injectors we have 42 and soon to be replaced with 60s, Pulley 3" and soon to be replaced with 2.5/ 2.7s not sure which, we got the exhaust and drag radials on the way.

please tell me that I dont have to open the engine to go 12.5

 

To be in the 12.5 range you will need another power adder, or do the internal work. Nitrous, twincharge, all turbo, or do a blower swap.

 

you really need to talk to fast06ss he can help you out alot .... he was one of those 12 sec guys he knows much more on this topic then most of them in here or black06ss he can help you too... those guys know there **** when it comes to fast cobalts

 

just do the snow performance much better then n20

 

I think the key to hitting the 12's is going with traction mods. ie tranny CAB's EDT's , some good slicks, smaller wheels in the back. The problem I have launching is getting through first with out spinning and wheel hoping. If you are looking for better times with the cobalts you will have to sole that problem. Most of us can hit the MPH for such a time but it is the problem with getting out of the hole with these cars. I think that the gearing of the first and second need to be changes. I hope someone can come up with some sort of gear change for the trans to set it up for the 1/4 better. I do not think that you need more power so you will not need to crack open the engine but the suspension, tranny gearing, tier size, axels will need to be upgraded.

 

i agree with you 100 percent .... but your talking thousands and thousands of dollars

 

only way I see is if your run a crazy tune (you don't want to see mine) and nitrous w/meth injection for power...
best I can see id probably 12.75-12.85 on a stock motor and clutch...
I unfortunatly never made a successful run down the track in full power trim (296whp) without breaking something, but you will def need mounts, traction bars, and or cabs (though I"ve seen em break) engine mount, t.d. hopefully you have a LSD tranny, if not won't last long, stock clutch should be ok if not abused too much I have a ton of runs on mine and it still grips like new, only slipped 1x. next up is good dr's or slicks, I have a set of hoosier QTP's I"ll be testing with next spring and I think those will drop my times substantially.
also gonna need some skill and a good amount of luck... and that I wish you

 

Have you run the QTPs with a stock clutch before? I don't think the clutch will hold much if you do it.

 

wow , things are not looking good

 

no I haven't, and I don't think that it will either

 

for the poeple saying it isnt possible, im not calling you stupid, but i think otherwise. A 2.6 with a nice tune, meth, light rims with DR's, traction mods, reg. bolt on, and driver mod will net you a mid 12 pass. thats not to say the clutch and axles will hold up, but if they did.

 

i would just do that blower swap that TAG racecraft is making right now. im pretty sure with that and some CABs and mounts and DRs or slicks, probably those axles, and a clutch you should easily hit mid to low 12s. now it wont be cheap but it will be the quickest way to get there.

 

Money wise , how much can we expect to spend ?

 

Ive watched a 06 SS go down the track to a crippled 12.8 with the mods I listed below . The spec 3+ clutch was a constant problem in this car . This car used Hoosier slicks , but it still did not completely hook up .

-2.5 pulley - Unported blower
-GTP belt tensioner pulley
-Owner tuned PCM . This PCM is tuned very aggressive at the track on 100 octane and logged every pass
-60 lb injectors
-Custom 3.5" cold air intake
-Converted to LT1 Maf sensor
-2 piggybacked LSJ heat exchangers
-Stock down pipe with no cat
-Corsa Touring cat back
-JBP lower control arm bushings
-Front and rear poly trans mounts
-air bags in the rear springs
- Driveshaft shop axles
-16x7 wheels with 26x9 Hoosier qwik time pro DOT slicks
- spec stage 3+ clutch . Like I said the clutch was nothing but a problem . You had to completely let off the gas to shift gears at WOT
-Fidenzza aluminum flywheel

12.86@109 , if I remember right is the fasted that car went with the above mods .

Add to the above list :

Lightweight rims ( all 4 of them )
Water/meth injection
A good mid lenght or longtube header
2-pass intercooler mod or GM's 2-pass retro-fit
Ported blower housing

Contrary to the popular vote , that'll get you where u wanna be if you can get the car cleanly down the track and your pcm tune is on the money . Theres a guy on here running 12.8's with a 2.8 pulley and 60's . Both of those cars have a stock unopened engine .

 

The best I have EVER hit was 11.9 at Ennis here in Texas. You can see from my sig what I have. There is a shop here in Arlington that mainly works on SS Camaro's and GT Mustangs, new and old style. I get alot of information and advice from them, seeing that they have worked on the GM platform for 10+ years. My axels have a click to them, but have never broken. I dont just stop the gas when I leave the light either. I rev at about 4,500 or so, then let the clutch off gradually, but quickly. I rarely spin out and there is not that much force against the axels to cause them to snap. My 1/8 time is an average 8.7-8.9. I can hold up to WRX's pretty nice, but then usually rang in the 8.5-8.7 seconds. My clutch is an upgraded Stage 3, so it can take the transfer of torque very well. It catches great and just fires off the line. My spark plugs are the main thing though, and this is the best from what I know. If ANYONE is using Iridium or Platinum, you will most likely have detonation. I used Iridium NGK before and 3 of 4 detonated. I then switched to NGK R copper, and gapped them at .24! The gap is everything to your SC. The smaller the gap, the faster the spark. With the spped at which my RPMs rise and the SC jumps, I needed plugs that would produce quick spark. A guy that lives down the street from me, has 3 old school GTP's with MASSIVE turboes. I talk to him all the time about my car. He says the setup I have is good. The gap of the plugs lets the superchargers boost rise without misfiring. Very clean, very smooth. My exhaust is large because I wanted the deepest sound, but also the best way to get the air out. From the heads back its 3", custom made from the GTP guys. They have a garage near my house.

Any more info, just let me know.

 

lets see...
blower swap: 2500
axles: 700(best price ive seen)
clutch: 650-1000
CABs and mounts: 500
slicks DRs plus wheels: 500-700
thats just off the top of my head i personally plan on running the bulley clutch that TAG offers and the twin screw swap ive already gotten the cabs and poly trans mounts. i do plan on hitting 12s with that stuff.