hey guy's you are right- tuning an NHRA car is very important for them that is why they use their own correction formula's to stay consistant. At this stage of the game I don't see where you really can tune much of anything on a 13-14 second cobalt? So the DA really has no affect on anything you do right? other than to make your 1/4 mile times seem better than they really are?( I don't mean this as a cut but most street car guy's seem to use these correction numbers to make their ET look better than use them for tuning purposes) I have a handheld DA calculator but to tell the truth on my turbo car it's not really much use. I even went as far as to make my own correction factor specifically for my car with the info I have logged with the last 200 runs but not much consistancy was achieved other than the 25 % seemed to be as close as all my figuring.
Altitude yes- anybody that travels for bracket racing has to deal with this.
"There are so many things that contribute to an ET that its almost impossible to compare times at different tracks sometimes. I totally agree.
Using a correction factor on your ET without saying what your real ET on a forum like this is BS though and I don't mean to offend anyone either though.

 

Also wanted to point out for those that don't understand- if your car is set up to build 15PSI of boost it does not care what the ouside air pressure is it will still build the same 15 pounds of boost wether or not the ouside air pressure is high or low- thus creating it's own atmosphere. On an NA engine the air is just sucked in as it is.

 

ahhhh i see your point. i wholeheartedly agree.

I moreso use the correction thing when i see someone at a primo sealevel track in my own mind.
like if i see someone run a 14.0 with just stage2, i think to myself that at my local tracks, if i were to pull a 14.4 or so its probably fairly similar.

but if i had a 14.4 run its still a 14.4 run. posting it as a 14.0 would be definate rice


Although posting it as a 14.4 and then putting in brackets (14.0 DA corrected) would be fair i guess.

 

"but if i had a 14.4 run its still a 14.4 run. posting it as a 14.0 would be definate rice"
That's the way I look at it too. And if you post the real ET along with the corrected one the reader can decide for himself on how much weight to give the corrected time.

 

I can shift fast. You have misread the info. in my signature. I got a 14.2 with a 2.3 60ft. My best 60ft was screwed up cause of the shifter The car had issues that day. The shift knob!! piece of crap came right off. misshifted second and after recovering I managed to cut my hand and get a 14.5.

I think I can get 14.0 or 13.9 but now I will gun for 13.8.

EDIT - I have only done 12 runs with the car ever. 6 stock and 6 S2. 4 runs have been screwed by the shift knob. I dont have enough seat time. and sometimes they make us run out of the groove. running at a prepped track is so different from the street. The car needs 245/45R17's I am looking at NITTO 555 R's

 

Stage 2, Air Box Mod, Magnaflow exhaust

Race 1:
R/T: 1.217
60': 2.498
330: 6.592
1/8: 9.774
MPH: 76.56
1/4: 14.836
MPH: 97.38


Race 2:
R/T: .636
60': 2.529
330: 7.029
1/8: 10.39
MPH: 74.73
1/4: 15.450
MPH: 97.01

This is my very first time to run the car. I just had the S2 installed Friday. The humdity at the track was very high and the track conditions sucked ass as well. The biggest problem I had was the F**king clutch slipping like a 2 dollar *****. So I guess my next mod will be a clutch that can actually hold the power that is already there.

 

sorry to have to sound like a douche, but it seems the only thing wrong with this car is the driver. not trying to be mean, im sure you will improve a bunch with practice, but a 2.49 and a 2.52 60 foot kinda speak for themselves. i myself have around 50 passes at the strip with my stock clutch, probably 25 passes with stage 2 and dont have clutch slippage unless i am hotlapping it (knock on wood), which i dont. seems to me the people that drive these cars dont like to let them cool down or just plain abuse them, thus clutch failure.

 

The car has 7k on it. I didn't get on the car until it had about 1500 on it. I had to wait about a hour and half before the runs because a guy wrecked his bike. Coming out of 1st into 2nd both times I just feathered the gas and it still slipped. I wasn't planning on any hard runs since this was the first time at the track. It's plain and simple the clutch in MY car won't hold what its got now. Oh yeah and a guy with a WRX was only getting 1.9 to 2.1 60 foot time. The track wasn't hooking at all.

 

Hi everyone! New member here, no cobalt though, just an srt-4

Anyhow, this post really inspired me to sign up for your forums.

A car with forced induction isn't affected by an increase in altitude NEARLY as much as a naturally aspirated vehicle is.

Here is my example. LS1 Camaro's ran 15.0-16.0 @ 87-96mph, last night at bandimere.

In my SRT-4 I ran a 14.030 @ 99.87 mph.

So lets see. . .
Bandimere is at 5800 feet

We will use this calculator
http://www.greatlakesdragaway.com/co...onfactors.html

Lets say it was. . . 45 degrees that night (it was more like 60) and about 20% humidity (more like 30%)

And we will pretend the Atmospheric pressure was 30.5 in. HG (It wasn't, it was more like 29.5)

That gives me a density altitude of -1500 feet. So we subtract that from 5800 feet and arrive at 4300 feet, so lets just apply these "Exact science" correction figures to my time!

13.287 @ 105.49 mph.
In a bone stock SRT-4. . . ok sure. If you used the actual conditions to figure correction I ran a 13 flat at 107. . . .

Sorry, DA correction does NOT work with forced induction cars. The fastest stock SRT time at sea-level or anywhere else for that matter is only 13.7 I believe. So I must be the next Michael Schumacher!!!!

Oh wait, DA corrections are BS on a F/I car.

Class is adjurned

 

I joined the forum to point out the same thing. The DA correction factor is misued so often it makes me sick. I think many of the people new to drag racing pick up on others doing it to make their times look better and unknowingly are giving false times as they just don't know any better. The magazines do the same thing and this really pisses me off. Did you guy's know the times listed in motortrend and car and driver are corrected times? the ones that are quoted as gospel? They won't tell you what correction factors they use but they do say they use them. Do they use the same factor on foreced induction cars as they do NA cars? Remember the issue when they compared the SRT-4 and Cobalt SS? They had the 1/4 mile times about equal- I think both at about 14.4 in the high 90's but the SRT had a 0-100 listed at like 14.1? The next issue they tried explaining how they used corrected times to compare the two cars but from the info it sounds like they incorrectly used the NA correction factor on the SRT by factoring in a more +DA to the SRT's ET.

 

Good numbers bro, very good numbers. Nice job!

 

I did 2.18 no traction mods. and I think it can be done better.

 

With my testing with GMS2,with and without BWoodies traction bars, I dont think HP or Traction mods are worthy of lowering my times substatially. Bigger better tires are worthy. will reduce wheel hope, and I will be able to launch harder to lower times.

 

good times guys! sorry to hear about your elevation and air density problems

 

I could not agree more. I ran 14.2 @ 100mph consistantly stock. With intake and ingalls I'm hoping for a 138-14 flat. With Stage II I'm hoping for 13.6-13.7s. Good luck keep up the hard work.

 

??? ummm you expect .2-.4 seconds off 1/4 mile from just intake and tq dampener? I would LOVE to see you prove this haha think of it this way losing 100#s takes about .1 off your time, I doubt intake and tq dampeneer will increase your velocity that much.... Unless by intake you mean a mini turbo :P

 

I could see .2 tenths from the ingalls easy...if it drops his 60ft by a tenth. My control arm bushings netted me consistant 2.0 60fts and a couple 1.9 60fts on stock rubber.

 

Can I see your time slip? I am not a doubter. I am just trying to learn off your times and compare to my slip. I did 11.74 in a 1000'. If I could do the 11.54 I believe a 13.7 is possible. not sure you could pull out a 13.5 though but I am willing to try.

thanks!

 

Follow up. I tried BWoody bars. this is what I learned. They work well! they do get rid of wheel hop. the problem with wheel hop is the control arms to the frame. bushings are to flexy (control arm deflection - technical name).

what I also learned is wheel hop is when your tires are breaking traction. to get a good 60ft. you need to push the car to that limit. getting a traction mod does not improve your chance of getting a better 60ft. as I said already I got 2.18 60' on stock tires with no traction mods.

So what do we do? increase HP? no, that will only help after 60 or 70 ft.
we need more traction, which equals tires. get bigger or wider tires and stickier tires and also suspension setup would help with weight transfer.

 

Good to read everything. sounds like a little bit of release of air outta the front two tires and just easing outta first and peeling out just to the point in which wheel hop should happen with out actually hopping. should result in some decent 60' times. all im hoping for is a nice sunny day without rain here in florida on sunday and prayin to break 13s wouldnt be all that bad either. running the stage 2 and an injen intake. updates soon....

 

I was in Orlando just this November. Man it is nice there and warmer. Would like to move there one day! Good luck with the runs and speed shift that thing.

 

my buddy on this site ran a...

13.2 w/ mods

gm stage 2 w/ 2.7
header w/ downpipe
airbox mod
front strut bar
and!! some hoosier drags of course


but...

i running 14.2 almost stock w/ just intake @ 100mph
wonder what i could do with stage 2 installed

 

That helps me with getting an Idea of what I could do with my planned mods. What was size was his hoosier's and do you know his 60's?

 

60ft was only 2.0.....might of had 1.9 but dont think soo

all i know is the tires are HUGE!!! they just fit in wheel well w/ the 17 or 16 inch wheels he got for them