volsfan92

iTrader: (7)

So after going to the first track day of the season I realized how high my iat2s get..I'm on a 2.6 which I know generates alot of heat..Meth kit is in the works..I was wondering if anybody had any tips for keeping the temps down..Somebody told me dry ice? Any help would be appreciated

Hockeyman

iTrader: (4)

flow through tank + ice

Haven07

Please tell me your on e85

volsfan92

iTrader: (7)

Hmm never heard of a flow thru..And I was on e85 then they took it out of my area..Then I was on meth but due to some hard times had to sell it

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

so your runniing a 2.6 w. no cooling mods ????

volsfan92

iTrader: (7)

I have a fmhe is it atm..it jus now got warm here so it wasnt much of a concern when it was 45 outside haha

WVU_SS

iTrader: (1)

Even that's not a lot of cooling. The m62 is terribly inefficient. I'd be tossing every cooling mod I could at that thing. Dual pass, meth, anything and everything I could as after a pull it will be hotter than hell

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

ohhh HOTTT damn ..... well i do autoX on this setup:

2.8/FMHE/Opt.B/Full Bolt-ons

- I just did an even two weeks ago and in between each run i let the car run and poped the hood as i waited for the next run, kept the IAT2's under control and Engine Temps under control as well.

What you can do as well is bring some bags of ice and a towel, put the towel on the blower and the ice ontop of that in between runs.


invest in some cooling mods to help that recovery though.


I just switched over to E85 saturday so i cant wait for the next autox day.

volsfan92

iTrader: (7)

Yea meth helped the most Im jus saving to get another kit

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

i would just baby her until then lol .... go back on E and ditch the meth

volsfan92

iTrader: (7)

I wanna go back on E Ive literallly begged the shell sations in my area to bring it back but they said theres not a big enough market and the E was going bad sitting in the tanks

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

its more important to make sure the temps are under say 140 by the end of the run otherwise i've learned to not worry about them during staging, once you start moving they drop a lot

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

How far away is the nearest station ?

I have a station like 3 miles away, i fill up the car and a 5 gal tank and let run all that then go back and fill up again.

It might be worth it to get a few 5 gal jugs and do a trip once a month, depending on your amount of driving for the month.


yea like rice said, sitting there your going to heat soak, once you move they drop.

Having the hood up will drop both temps pretty good for a few mins. then once your off an running your temps should drop.


it all depends on how your tune is setup to when the car is going to start pulling timing based on IAT2 temps.

DirtyBalt09

iTrader: (2)

I used to ice my SC down on my GTP between runs hood popped. It helped some. Those cars aren't intercooled so it was pretty noticeable. Thing that sucks about ice is by the time you start up and wait for staging you car will be pretty warm again ...

joshcsepegi

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=212&products_id=1227&osCsid =901aaf85a6de34032c1b63fc3f3551211

Use it as a flow through tank

How you would hook this up us out ofyour heat exchanger to this full of ice and water to pump then to you're intake manifold.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

a dual pass dose not control temp rise it helps recovery nothing more

why its not going to hurt not running it

so big deal

not really needed for straight line racing

no need to baby it

get a griffen heat exchanger or a zzp stealth heat exchanger and run an option b for constant bleeding or add a flow through tank with an option b bleed port the more air you remove the cooler it will be the flow through will give you the option of using ice but you will ne to add a drain valve to lowering the fluid level when it gets over full

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

yeah the ice on the blower trick didnt do **** for me, we ever tried spraying n20 on the heat exchangers and blower once between passes for ***** and giggles and it didn't help none

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Only thing that will really help is running the fan and I/C pump with the car off to control heat soak between rounds. You can put jumper wires across the relays in the underhood fuse box or setup a fancier switch arrangement.

Stumpalump

What he said. We ran the dunes hard as hell last week for 25 minutes and then let them cool. Air temps in the 90's.
I back way off before we pull over and let the car idle till the water temp is 180 or below. Next I kill the ignition and shortly after the pump. I'll let one fan run for a few more minutes to cool the rad and HE. Before restart, I start both fans and the pump and let them run while I helmet and suit up to buckled into the 5 point. I fire up right before we roll because we run easy for a half mile before it's WFO for the next 25 minutes again. My water runs 180 but creeps up every minute untill we are 210-215 after 25 minutes hard on the gas. If I go longer or do a WFO pull at that temp I start to feel the power loss and I just back off. It's stong until then. All the cars run the same length of time but the turbo cars and V8's are 10-15 degrees hotter. My LSJ won't run right at those higher temps. Only guages are rpm, temp and boost that runs at 14.