I just broke a roll pin. Sucks man. Gotta get a new one at the dealership tomorrow. Employee discount woohoo! Can't wait to see what kind of hell this one's gonna be.

 

goddamn guys, I still have the original one in my car.... This isn't a T56 trans, can't be slamming gears... and for those that want to put a stronger pin in, it's there to break for a reason,... it's saving you from destroying your sincros.

 

As has been said that roll pin is made to break under a certain force so to prevent damage to other vital components. Replacing that pin with something stronger is going to give you problems down the road, maybe causing something else to break internally in the transmission.

 

hey can anyone tell me if i through in a short shifter in will i be abel to shift faster without grinding the syncronizing rings and if it wont help is there anything that will im use to shifting verry fast from my previous car and no its like im lost

 

I actually broke the rubber boot around end of the shift cable? I'm kinda pissed this thing uses cables to begin with. I had to order the whole cable assembly at my job. 120 with overnight and my friggin discount. sucks how a little rubber boot can take out 2nd, 4th and reverse.

 

does anyone have any pics of this thing? and how you know you broke it?

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-fix-linkage-roll-pin-transmission-102830/

search, took me 2 secs.

 

what im asking is does your shifter feel any different when it breaks. Mine is really loose in neutral and is sloppy going into 3rd and fifth. its not the side to side cable its the forward and back cable that feels all loose and sloppy

 

supposedly the new balt is suppost to be better, they did like 100 launches in a row with no problems .


and i broke mine, and the guy at the deal said that hes only ever seen it happen to corvettes and i must be beatin the ever lovin **** out of the car. I said it has a ss badge for a reason right?

 

that's what it feels like. you pin is stretched and/or broken.

I told the dealer the same thing. So he voided my clutch warranty. There were other reasons too, but not really "excellent" grounds to stand on.

Anyways, I think you're right about the new balt having a better linkage set up. My hook up hopefully will get me the new linkages so I can try them out. But I do have a aircraft bolt in mine now so I doubt it'll ever break again.

 

If you havn't done this and your shifter is sloppy change it asap I had the misfortune of looking into and then putting it off till this weekend. then all of a sudden in the middle of an intersection I lost all my gear yes ALL of them so i had to change it on the road. the bolt is easier to do.

 

seriously though....the bolt/nut combo is going to lead to trouble down the road

e.g. Blown Syncros, drive line gears, etc. Shrapnel in the transmission = bad....keep that in mind....

instead of using Roll Pins.....how about a slightly stronger yet forgiving pin.....a nice spring pin....looks the same as a roll pin...but not as brittle...they will give and retain some memory...so they will bend but not break (although under certain conditions they will given the right amount of force) and then go back to original position...and they will hold their own inside the hole where they go....

another idea is to find a damn good machinist to make you a press fit pin from tool steel that is solid...then press that in...that would work and under the worst conditions it will fracture avoiding serious damage to the internals of the tranny but still give you the ability to slam those gears...provided that you actually let the syncros do their job lol....

that was just my two cents....enjoy and good luck.....

 

There are plenty of people using bolts now. They have no problems that I've heard of. Same for me.

 

It just holds the shift linkage to the trans. I don't see how it would mess anything up.

 

well coming from a background of working on Aircraft and high precision machine items...the engineers placed those pins in for a reason...they are supposed to shear when the load is to great thus preventing further damage to internal linkages and gearing...so basically circumventing the system puts the transmission at greater risk of catastrophic failure....unless say instead of using a bigger bolt/nut than what the pin size is..you use one that is pretty much the same size then that would work unless the bolt is a high grade bolt...now drilling into those parts puts additional stress into those points and creates what are called "stress risers"...those stress risers in effect could lead to failure of the external linkages themselves creating yet another problem...now to alleviate those problems there is a technique that one can use called "cold working" which involves some expensive tools...(a kit runs something around 2 grand and up depending on the size of the kit etc.)....so with that said...the best bet is to use either the engineer recommended roll pins or a slightly but not to much higher strength pin....and stop slamming the shifter into the gate lol....

that was just my thoughts...

 

blah blah blah, they put weak ass roll pins in. It's a common problem in the cobalts. Throw a bolt in it and call it a day.

BTW, I wouldn't be the fastest stock pullied cobalt if I didn't drive the way I did. That doesn't mean that I slam the shifter. It means that I drive aggressively at the track. The slicks take a toll on that pin too. That's been mostly when I broke it.

 

well the bolt that i used broke while i was at the track so it was a cheap as grade of steel. i now have to find a place to get some stainless ones lol. and also we are using the same size bolt as what the pin is number 10 bolt versus a 3/16ths weak ass roll pin. getting a pin in there is a pain in the ass there is no easy access to hammer the pin pusher so it pushes the pin in.

 

Those of you that have sheared the pin, did you have the 7k clutch problem before? My clutch would go soft at high speed shifts then the last session the roll pin sheared leaving me in neutral and causing me to ride the tow rope of shame. Fortunately I got it replaced for the next day's run and it didn't seem to be as bad. Is the hi speed clutch issue a sign of pin pre failure?

 

I haven't broken any pins and I beat the **** out of mine....but I just dropped a second tranny...

 

And, the new TC has a cheap plastic link from the shifter to the cable below the shift handle where the ball on the cable snaps into the shift handle, these things ( I'm not sure what it's called) are breaking left and right and GM has a back order on them, suppliers are no longer shipping them due to the crisis with gm

 

T56 cant handle power shifting either even with carbon blocker rings and reinforced shift forks. shift slower, and use a better spirolox (sp?) roll pin

 

i broke mine once but i shift so easy and without any power i figured it would never break. but it did when i was getting on the highway. i was shifting from 4th to fifth. doing about 55mph. and it didnt wanna do anything the shifter just wiggled alot

 

good thoughts...

 

I have 28500 miles on mine and I havent broken mine... Guess I just dont shift as hard as yall do

 

i snapped my roll pin from powershifting... same time freezing 1st and 2nd gear together and managing to screw 5th syncro's up... i understand 1st and 2nd because i running a friends ws6 and i said ok i must powershift... yea... never again. i got a whole new tranny out of it however. so i'm not complaining. just saying these trannies cant handle powershifting and i've been driving stick and only stick for 8 years. so i'm no noob

LMAO I LOVE YOUR SIG!@!!