So I been having axle bind since I replaced my struts with the tc struts and shocks. H&r springs and moog end links strut bearings. I've gone through 4 orielys axles 1 every week. The oem 1 lasted a yr and I've gone through 2 napa max drives the napa haven't broken but staryed to pop all the time. There are people the same lowest as me and lower and don't bind. So what I need help with it what to look at. The trans is coming out to be replaced so I'll have room to look. But I have solid motor mount and rotated trans mounts. The bind stops if I jack my car up and let the suspension flex for about 30 mins then let the csr down and drive it the bind is gone until the suspension settles back down. Any ideas

 

Maybe the solid motor mount is causing it since its not letting your engine move and you need some movement. If you have rotated mounts you should be running the oem motor mount

 

Ditch the solid motor mounts, stick with just the rotated lower mounts.

 

You should be using the rotated mounts regardless, but solid mounts shouldn't cause an axle to break like that....

OP you're not using DR's or slicks at the drag strip, are you?

 

No. Just street tires. I had the axle bind before I got the solid motor mount. I got the motor mount to help prevent axle hop.

 

I got the bind right after I lowered the car. But it's not thag lower and people are lower then me with no issue. I've snapped the driver side a few times. The napa ones haven't broke but started to pop to indicate a bade axle.

 

anyone?

 

Are you ruining both or just the driver side?
Has the car ever been in an accident?

 

I'm running both rotated mounts and the motor mount. No it hasn't

 

What exact model Cobalt are you driving? Open diff or LSD?

 

Well isnt h&r one of the lowest if not the lowest spring for the balt?

 

... Ruining... Are you breaking both axles or just one?

And what 09outlander asked.

 

Just one the driver side. I'm driving a 06 cobalt ss lsj non g85.

 

I'm pretty sure h&r are the same as the others. My buddy has the same exact car has sport line same drop. No bind

 

as others have said... get rid of the solid motor mount while using rotated trans mounts.

look into rack spacers as well.

have you had an alignment performed since installing the springs?

 

Take a string, tie it to the left lower bj.
Run it under the control arm to the right lower bj.
Tighten the string and tie it in the same spot you did on the left.
Line the ends up with the center of the outter ends of the axle shafts, use more string if you need to to pull it front and back until its lined up.
Now that the string lines up with the outter axle ends...
Does the string line up with the transmission outputs?

 

Yes I've had an alignment done. That's kinda confusing let me see if I got this... tie a string to bottom left ball joint run under control arm and tie it to bottom right ball joint the line the string up with center of the axle shaft and see if it lines yp with the transmissions inlets.

 

Should I pull the axles out of the steering knuckle.

 

What if it doesn't line up with the transmission outputs?

 

Exactlly

No, the idea is to compare the string to the axle alignment. It would be best if you can do this on a roll on ramp or by keeping the suspension loaded.


Then sir, you have some issues.

by lowering the car you are putting more up and down strain on the axles.
if you also have bad caster for some reason, this will put front and back strain on the axle.
having 1 or the other is ok to an extent, having both will cause you to chew up axles.

 

K because ever since I lowered it I've had vibes through 2nd gear and top of 3rd not sure the speeds of that. And I'm sure that's what's eating them. I can put it on an alignment rack and preload the ball joints. Csr was fine before the change in suspension and I just talked to someone and they have the same csr same setup besides different rotated mounts and they have no issue

 

... If you got a vibration after lowering and your axles are getting wrecked...
One would think its your axles doing the vibrating.
Why is the question.
Like stated above, remove the solid mount.

Rotated mounts pitch the front of the trans up. They are both on the trans (drivers side).
Solid mount is ment to take play out of a stock (you can call the manufacturer, but im pretty sure its based on a stock mount) mount. It is on the passenger side.

By making the left mount solid, you are permanently retaining the stock engine placement.
By adding rotated mounts... Since the left side of your engine cant move, you are basically twisting your trans and throwing off the geomitry of the drivers side.

If you want to visualise it... Take a rectangular piece of cardboard. Lay it on the table. Grab the right side and rotate it. The whole piece of cardboard moves.
Now do it again, but press your finger on the left side of the cardboard as hard as you can.
Thats what you are doing to your drivetrain.
It gets exaggerated by the drivers axle as that is the furthest point from the pivot point (the solid mount).

Using the string should show you that the drivers side trans output is further ahead than the passenger side.

Either go back to a stock engine mount, or get a polly mount.
There is still movement in polly mounts, so its not going to bind things up.

 

haha maybe mine is polly. It's the zzp motor mount.

 

Just looked it's the billet poly mount

 

I know it's a huge long shot, but next time you have the front tires off of the ground spin them buy hand and make sure they turn in opposite directions, just to make sure your diff isn't locked up. I've seen it happen once on a RWD car where a spider gear broke and locked the diff up solid, which may on a FWD create enough strain on the CV shafts to create a problem.