i guess there's no such thing as an internal clearance since you can't see through the parts with your own eyes. rock on brother!

i've already said it 10 times here, you're going to replace all of that stuff and it's going to blow apart again. except this time it's going to be alot more expensive to repair, with your beefed up parts.

oh and btw, the intermediate shaft could be warped as well. but hell, what do any of us know?

PS, wheelhop didn't break that mount.

 

look here is what they are saying

In a stock setup

(Tranny here)>|


............................................|<(Tir e here


Your setup

(Tranny here)>|....................|<(Tire here

The distance between the two cv joints is less with an extreme drop which puts lateral stress not centrifugal.

you need an axle that is shorter by something as small as a quarter inch
you just have to do some measuring or trig...

 

^makes alot of sense

 

^^^^ sorry some of the spaces disappeared. The visual is fixed.

 

^^^ see there's a guy that has no idea what he's talking about.

you just need stage 5 axles, 167 degree rotated mounts and a dancing monkey to take advantage of your plywood trunk

 

the distance from the tranny to the hub isn't as far apart because the hub is moved up 4 inches which means you need a shorter axle...

 

lmao, now I see what you're saying. so what if I shortened the splines? I could always grind down the ends myself even before the little snap ring things. that'll take off about a quarter inch. or I could bring them to a local machine shop and have them shortened the right way?

also, if it were from the horizontal impact of the axle bottoming out, wouldn't that damage my diff? there's no damage to my diff at all. I am simply trying to avoid this scenario because I don't want to break these new axles. I am considering buying a stock cv axle for 75 bucks to experiment, although I can't afford to be stuck again! **** I broke SO MUCH ****

 

wow, only took you 15 pages.

 

I am new to this forum looking for advice on gm trans for 300+ whp but after reading 15 pages iof this thread I must comment:-
there is goog advice that is poorly explained and there is some ego bullshit.
Do the maths & trig for your self!!!
Jack the car up - measure full drop to transaxal line.
Jack wheel to full lift.(to the bump stop) the difference is called the cord.
Half shaft length is your radius
check that the half shaft bearing angle does not go out of tolerance!
I'm sure I've misssed a few other dims needed to?
every set up is different and only you can make the final decision.
Beware dropping the chassis to the ground may involve rotating engine & trans with new chassis mounts to give correct transaxle alignment!
PS mistakes are expensive!

 

wow! some ******* useful info! thank you very much corsev you are a great help. much appreciated, and I am not just saying that. very helpful. and you are looking for a ff(ftont engine front drive) gm trans for 300+ on slicks + hard launch + high stall etc etc? talk to 06blackg85ss he has some info that I cannot share.

question: how do I know the half shaft bearing tolerance?

now I am considering modifying the cradle bushings. this makes a lot of sense now!


I believe this is what he is trying to explain. the lines are not perfect, but you should be able to get the idea. the thresholds of the cv joints should be even within the bump stop and full drop lines. the radius should be centered in order for suspension travel to match cv joint travel and the BLUE line will be the axle's absolute angle. to corsev for stating the obvious, although no one could consider something so simple!

btw WRONG way to use a torque wrench

 

Say's the guy who had an epic build fail himself... You run around calling people stupid when you dont even know how to tq down a headstud. Just leave the guy alone already and let this die, we all get it.