clutch bleeding HELP!!
#1
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clutch bleeding HELP!!
i just installed a new clutch and throw out bearing in my 08 ss about a month ago i beld it and all was good!! i was driving it today and it starter to feel funny like it had air in it so i bled it again and it was good for a min and goes to the floor bearly disengaging the clutch. am i not bleeding it properly or has something gone out... im running a stage 3 ky clutch.. and i am gravity bleeding...
#5
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If you don't close the bleeder valve all the way TIGHT before the "driver" lets up on the clutch, you'll suck air back into the lines. Also make sure the reservoir is filled RIGHT to the rim to block off the top side completely. When I bled all 4 brakes and the clutch, I topped the fluid off after ever pump of the brakes or clutch. And it helps when doing the clutch to have a LONG, like 6ft+ kind of long, 3/8"ID (I think) clear hose to go UP (Because air goes up!) and out of the engine and down into a bucket so once you clear 2 or 3 good pumps you can relax about getting air in because you have enough fluid on both sides of the system to keep air out, keeping in mind to top off the reservoir after every pump. Hope this helps! If you have any Q's you can PM me ^^
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make sure your clutch pedal is all the way disengaged when ur trying to bleed the system. Because even if it is engaged the slightest bit it wont let air dissipate the system. that was the problem i was having when i installed the zzp adjustable rod. make sure its adjusted all the way out.
#8
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^^^ This is very true, a guy around here made a how-to to make that cap out of the original cap on the car, and it worked brilliantly. I did it the old fashioned way, and after all the normal headaches of the flushing, it turned out OK, but the fact that his method used an air compressor to push fresh fluid into the system was genius.
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The thing is I can bleed all the air out so I think, the pedal gets tight but before I get to fifth gear the pedal is on the floor again. I can pump up the pedal and I have a full pedal again. I've bled it like 10 times or more and get the same results
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Ok looks like I fix this bleeding problem. I read somewhere on here that u need to change the clutch/brake fluid so I did it since I have 80k on the original fluid. So changed the fluid bled the clutch but my one man bleeder line fell off and I sucked tons of air in the system. Then I just gravity bled it let a lot of fluid pass through it I capped it up and wow clutch fixed. Just hope it stays fixed now!! I have bled this clutch for 3 days now it was driving me crazy who wouldve thought old fluid could cause this much trouble and head ache!! Thanks for all the advice from everyone
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I know you got it fixed but another smart thing to do while gravity bleeding is to fill a clean empty bottle half full with clean clutch fluid,
keep the bleeder hose submerged in the bottle of fluid while doing your gravity bleed procedure this way if you accidentally suck anything back up it will be clutch fluid not air.
keep the bleeder hose submerged in the bottle of fluid while doing your gravity bleed procedure this way if you accidentally suck anything back up it will be clutch fluid not air.
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haha well i thought i fixed it lol.....im getting the master cylinder replaced monday under warranty....ive bled and bled that thing it would work for a couple shifts and it would be gone again if i let it sit over night i would have a full peddal that morn. so dealer said it was the master cylinder leaking past a seal. so let them f with it lol....
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Here's how I bled a clutch on the SS I put a motor in recently. The line to the clutch elbow was completely dry.
I filled the brake resevoir and opened the bleeder screw until fluid was steadily dripping out. Then I used a hand vacuum pump and an adapter to pull 25 inches of vacuum on the brake resevoir. While vacuum was applied I pumped the clutch pedal rapidly 30 times or so and let it sit for five or ten minutes.
Came back and pumped it a bunch more. Released vacuum and pumped up the clutch and brakes. The clutch pedal felt perfect.
I filled the brake resevoir and opened the bleeder screw until fluid was steadily dripping out. Then I used a hand vacuum pump and an adapter to pull 25 inches of vacuum on the brake resevoir. While vacuum was applied I pumped the clutch pedal rapidly 30 times or so and let it sit for five or ten minutes.
Came back and pumped it a bunch more. Released vacuum and pumped up the clutch and brakes. The clutch pedal felt perfect.
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Yeah I've bled it every way in the book! And the pedal was perfect after I installed the clutch for like over a month and all of a sudden I lost all pressure and everytime I bleed it I have great pressure and lose it. But if I let the car set over night or for a couple hours the pedal is tight again. The dealer said it sounds like the master cylinder so its a free fix for me.
#21
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I just made appt. with the dealer. This loss of pedal pressure crap has got to end. I've bled mine numerous times to no avail. It's gotta be a bad master cyl.
#23
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Yeah I've bled it every way in the book! And the pedal was perfect after I installed the clutch for like over a month and all of a sudden I lost all pressure and everytime I bleed it I have great pressure and lose it. But if I let the car set over night or for a couple hours the pedal is tight again. The dealer said it sounds like the master cylinder so its a free fix for me.
#25
I was gonna say sometimes you have to get a vacuum pump bleeder to get the air out of the slave.
I had a lot of issues with my clutch pedal feel when I first installed a stage 3.