clutch bleeding issue.. Need help!!!
I just put in a gm performance clutch, lightened flywheel, throw out bearing, and clutch tube..
i been bleeding this car for over an hour and a half now... and the pedal is easy to go down 3/4 of the way then its hard as a rock..
i talked to someone and they told me it cuz i didnt bench bleed the throw out bearing...
they said to just simply pump the pedal up and hold it then out then bleeder..it will take a hour to 2 hours... so i been doing that and nothing has changed and suggestions... oh i also put everthing back on and started the car up and it wont go into gear.....
i been bleeding this car for over an hour and a half now... and the pedal is easy to go down 3/4 of the way then its hard as a rock..
i talked to someone and they told me it cuz i didnt bench bleed the throw out bearing...
they said to just simply pump the pedal up and hold it then out then bleeder..it will take a hour to 2 hours... so i been doing that and nothing has changed and suggestions... oh i also put everthing back on and started the car up and it wont go into gear.....
wont work iirc. u be screwed. The flywheel is not your friend. Stock flywheel is best. GMPP has different cltuch installed heights and I suggest that is what you are running into and I think it sucks and if I am right, its a lot of work but you had better start over.
thanks, but how is that possible, if the flywheel is the same size as stock but uses lighter material and i matched everything up and spun after everything is installed. i just never bench bleed the slave cylinder after i put it in... that wat i been told by a bunch of mechanics... I'm a mechanic myself... just never done a clutch on these cars.... mostly 8s and 6 cylinders. They just said to bleed the sh*t out of the car and it will adventually get a pedal... if the clutch didnt fit nothing would of went on so easy and if i started the car i would of got a grinding noise or a funky sound... which i have 0 sound... im just getting fustrated with this car... i dont have the time to take it back apart which is the problem... idk but thanks for the input tho
I'm not sure about the Fidanza flywheel not working with the GMPP clutch......however, the best way to bleed the clutch (I've done 5 installs) is to vacuum bleed as recommended in the build book. Works everytime and no waste or mess of brake fluid. You do not bench bleed these types of slaves.
ok so i opened the bleeder and had someone push it down slowly and then closed the bleeder... i did that 5 times... now it goes right to the floor really easy... im assuming that theres still air in the system... cuz i dont have that stiff pedal on almost to the floor
keep trying.
what i did:
pump the clutch pedal then hold it to the floor. have someone crack the bleeder, then close it once the air/fluid comes out WHILE your holding the clutch pedal down still. once bleeder is closed back up, pump the clutch pedal again for a while. rinse and repeat until it stiffens up.
if its not working at all then check to make sure youre not leaking fluid under the trans. also check to make sure that the lines are connected properly to the trans (the ones that attatch to the bleeder port) and arent leaking.
what i did:
pump the clutch pedal then hold it to the floor. have someone crack the bleeder, then close it once the air/fluid comes out WHILE your holding the clutch pedal down still. once bleeder is closed back up, pump the clutch pedal again for a while. rinse and repeat until it stiffens up.
if its not working at all then check to make sure youre not leaking fluid under the trans. also check to make sure that the lines are connected properly to the trans (the ones that attatch to the bleeder port) and arent leaking.
The two mechanics I talked to said you don't have to crack the bleeder valve or anything. All I did was pump the pedal like 100 times and it worked fine. I never messed with anything else when I did the clutch and slave. I just pumped it like 30 times waited a couple seconds pumped it again waited and so on. The only thing I had problems with was where the clutch pedal was engaging. An adjustable master cylinder rod took care of that though.
Last edited by Superbalt06; Nov 26, 2011 at 03:49 PM.
Not sure why this is always so hard.......
Pump the clutch pedal 20-50 times. If it gets better. youre done
Bleed the clutch just like you would bleed brakes, push the pedal down and hold it....open bleeder let out any air and fluid, close screw, release clutch. repeat. if it works youre done.
Use a vacuum bleeder as last resort or first if youve got one.
Doing all three variations should take significantly less than an hour, and you dont need all three.
If someone tells you it takes 2hours to bleed....i would avoid their guidance on these types of subjects
Pump the clutch pedal 20-50 times. If it gets better. youre done
Bleed the clutch just like you would bleed brakes, push the pedal down and hold it....open bleeder let out any air and fluid, close screw, release clutch. repeat. if it works youre done.
Use a vacuum bleeder as last resort or first if youve got one.
Doing all three variations should take significantly less than an hour, and you dont need all three.
If someone tells you it takes 2hours to bleed....i would avoid their guidance on these types of subjects
This is exactly what I did. If you're not closing the bleeder when you release the clutch you will pull air back into the system. This should take about 15 minutes.
Not sure why this is always so hard.......
Pump the clutch pedal 20-50 times. If it gets better. youre done
Bleed the clutch just like you would bleed brakes, push the pedal down and hold it....open bleeder let out any air and fluid, close screw, release clutch. repeat. if it works youre done.
Use a vacuum bleeder as last resort or first if youve got one.
Doing all three variations should take significantly less than an hour, and you dont need all three.
If someone tells you it takes 2hours to bleed....i would avoid their guidance on these types of subjects
Pump the clutch pedal 20-50 times. If it gets better. youre done
Bleed the clutch just like you would bleed brakes, push the pedal down and hold it....open bleeder let out any air and fluid, close screw, release clutch. repeat. if it works youre done.
Use a vacuum bleeder as last resort or first if youve got one.
Doing all three variations should take significantly less than an hour, and you dont need all three.
If someone tells you it takes 2hours to bleed....i would avoid their guidance on these types of subjects

vacuum bleeder is the best way to do these cars. If you use one properly as per the gm instructions, you barely have to pump the pedal, just a couple cycles of vac/release and you will have a great pedal with no mess.
honestly idk at this point i rather put a match in the gas tank... i used a vaccum bleeder then it wouldnt hold any pressure cuz it broke.. so i been doing it how i do it the same way with brakes... its easy to go down but a quarter left of the pedal its stiff as a board.when the bleeder is closed.. as it looks i have to take the car apart again....
i m using a heavier pressure plate than stock but less than a stg1 exedy.
i m using 2 * 0.010'' spacer on each bolts. i ve begun by 0.010''. then put a other one.
i bought arp bolts and they came with washers.. i put them on the front of the flywheel where the clutch would sit.... is that the issue?
at least when you are done you can counsel others on here about what not to do, and then get flamed for telling them! lol good luck, Let us know how it turns out. ps OEM bolts are torque to yield...39 lb ft + 25 degrees.
Yeah, if youve got washers in between the clutch cover and the flywheel that sounds like the problem......
When you took it apart there werent washers there why did you install them there when you did the swap?
When you took it apart there werent washers there why did you install them there when you did the swap?



