Can someone give me a rough estimate....

 

about 650. luke had his installed at jpa and thats where im going to do mine. thats the price

 

Shop labor rate X 8 = your price.

 

It's that labor intense,really?

 

i've never done one, but i've read up on it and it seems like a ******* pain in the ass.

let me put it this way, my repair manual says if you're ever pulling the tranny for some reason, you may as well go ahead and replace the clutch, because you're not going to want to pull the tranny again

 

Sigh,that's saddening.The clutches already seem pricey for these balts,.Might you know where an online schematic is around to gimme an idea?

 

Schematic? you mean instructions?

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
Remove the cover from the underhood electrical center.



Remove the underhood electrical center bracket from the vehicle and reposition the electrical center (1) to access the bracket. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement.



Disconnect the hydraulic clutch hose (3) from the clutch actuator cylinder (2) and the clutch master cylinder (1).
Cap the lines to prevent contamination or fluid loss.
Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture.


Remove the upper transmission to mount bolts.
Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the transmission stud.
Remove the upper transmission to engine stud and bolt.
Remove the frame. Refer to Frame Replacement.
With the wheels in the straight ahead position, remove the key from the ignition switch.



Secure the cooling module to the upper body structure.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
Remove the front wheels from the vehicle. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Remove the left and right splash shields and the 3 screws in the inner fenders. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement - Left Side or Engine Splash Shield Replacement - Right Side.
Remove the lower radiator air deflector from the frame.



Remove the front transaxle mount to frame through bolt.



Remove the rear transaxle mount to frame bolts.



Remove both stabilizer link to stabilizer shaft nuts. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement.



Remove both tie rod to steering knuckle nuts.



Use the J 24319-B to separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.



Remove the intermediate steering shaft to steering gear pinch bolt and discard.
Note: DO NOT rotate the intermediate shaft once separated from the gear. Possible damage or a malfunction could occur.

Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.



Remove both lower control arm ball stud to steering knuckle pinch bolts.
Caution: Do not free the ball stud by using a pickle fork or a wedge-type tool. Damage to the seal or bushing may result.

Lower the lower control arms in order to disengage the steering knuckle. If necessary, use the J 43631 .
Mark the frame to body position with a paint pen or permanent marker.



Lower the vehicle to approximately 1 meter (3 feet) off the ground in order to place a hydraulic lift table under the frame.
Use two 2 x 4s between the lift table and the frame and lift the table to the frame.
Slowly remove the frame bolts using the following sequence:
19.1. Remove the front frame bolts.

19.2. Remove the rear frame bolts.

Slowly lower the lift table and frame to the floor.

Drain the transaxle. Refer to Transmission Fluid Replacement.
Disconnect the drive axle and intermediate shaft from the transmission and secure out of the way. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement and Front Wheel Drive Intermediate Shaft Replacement.
Remove the starter. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.



Disconnect the shift cables (2) from the transmission. Refer to Shift Control Cable Replacement.



Disconnect the backup lamp switch harness connector and the vehicle speed sensor connector.
Use the engine support fixture rear hook to lower the powertrain enough to allow clearance between the side rail and powertrain.
Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
Use a transmission jack to secure the transmission, and remove the transmission to engine bolts.
Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
Remove the front transmission mount from the transmission. Refer to Transmission Front Mount Replacement.
Remove the rear transmission mount and bracket from the transmission. Refer to Transmission Rear Mount Replacement

 

Ok,you pretty much showed me it's like 1500 hundred for a clutch swap part and labor.Ridiculous.Hell,2 grand for flywheel and all.

 

i was gonna say i bet maven has the step by step :

 

how long do they take?

 

book time on a cobalt clutch job is 8.1 hours + 0.4 to re/re the flywheel. yes its very labour intensive, you do need to remove the whole fuse pannel and the subframe has to come out.

 

don't buy a aluminum flywheel, waste of money and shortens clutch life. Resurface your stock FW or buy a new OEM one, waay cheaper.

 

The Cobalt is a way better car than the Jbodies were, but they were much easier to service. A lot of guys could swing a trans in a Jbody in 3 hours no problem. Cobatl, not so much......


You might want to try and find a shop that builds or has built Ion or Cobalt race cars. While likely not any cheaper, they should certainly at least more experience with the job than your average shop. And a well respected dealer would also be a good place to go.

 

from the cheapest to the most expensive clutch in all it will run you about 1k-2k for parts and labor.

I picked up my exedy stage 3 for 800 and i payed 500 for the install and i had to buy a throw out bearing for 90 bucks.

 

so how much should parts and labor be for everything? estimate

 

you're right, its roughly 8-9 hours of pain in the ass

depends on the price of the clutch kit. but you should be looking at 600-800 for install

 

so about 2000 all together?

 

I just paid 1200 parts + labor including resurface.

 

yea u'r looking into at least 1000 if u'r lucky lol

 

here ya go
http://www.jbaracing.com/

 

wow... and I got quoted $200 for the install. lucky me.

 

that should be good, i mean crap it only takes us 2 hours to drop the entire cradle out of the car... but i think that's cause we've blown so many motors