Drivetrain Transmission, LSD, Clutch, Driveline, Axles...

clutch help ky stage 3

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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #26  
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Cool. Thanks guys
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #27  
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so i found a used(10k miles) ky stage 3 for sale, and was gonna get new studs and tob, and flywheel to go with it...the guy got rid of it because he said his never felt like stock
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #28  
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thats understandable. I mean, it's a pucked clutch that can hold much more than the stock clutch. a replacement OEM clutch prob wouldnt feel "exactly" like the stock clutch. I think i may stick with the stage 1 or 2, i dont have big power desires.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:01 AM
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once my tune is tweeked and i finish with the bolt-ons, i will be around the 400wtq mark. My clutch is already shot though, so i have to replace it asap.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
so i found a used(10k miles) ky stage 3 for sale, and was gonna get new studs and tob, and flywheel to go with it...the guy got rid of it because he said his never felt like stock
Make sure it is the "newer" kit... If he purchased it through us, and can prove it to you, it should be okay. If he bought it prior to last fall, I would get a new kit from us instead.

Plus unless you are getting it VERY cheap ($100) I would never waste all that install time putting in a used clutch. Asking for troubles...
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #31  
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why, what is up with the older models?
i dont know if it is, but it looks like he has had it for over a year.

and no, its 179 shipped
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:11 AM
  #32  
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I would never buy a used clutch but I had issues with either my clutch of TOB. Clutch made a LOT of noise on decel and after about 500 miles I had a lot of trouble going into reverse. I did the install with my step dad, who is an ASE certified mechanic, so it was done 100% correct. Not sure what it was but they live 6 hours away in NY and I dont have the money to have the trans pulled and whatever fixed so I traded the car in. Ended up costing less in the long run anyway, lower payment and a big insurance drop. So i'm not sure what the noise was when I would decel or what caused the shifting issues but be carefull with what clutch you do use.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:15 AM
  #33  
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wow, interesting....
obviously buying anything used is a risk, but i would totally flame the guy if it was shot...he ended up with a zzp stage 4 and said it felt better to him like stock, but whatevs...i am just trying to save as much money as i can because i still need a new intercooler and bpv as well. plus the install on a clutch is $1000 anywhere here!!!

here is the classified thread...
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...-stock-276302/

Last edited by AARON-SS-TC; Apr 11, 2012 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:35 AM
  #34  
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mine was a brand new KY Stage 3, with the TOB, flywheel, trans fluid and a few other parts it was over $750. I should have just bought a ZZP stage 3 like I originally wanted.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by klloyd
mine was a brand new KY Stage 3, with the TOB, flywheel, trans fluid and a few other parts it was over $750. I should have just bought a ZZP stage 3 like I originally wanted.
KY is great quality, I highly doubt any other stage 3 is any higher quality. The price of KY is great to. I think you would have paid even more if you would not have got the KY, with no difference in products.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:03 PM
  #36  
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I just think a 6 puck clutch is too harsh for a daily driver. Can't say much about the quality since I didn't keep the car long enough to really take advantage of it. Ohh and they sent the wrong clutch tool.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:30 PM
  #37  
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so he says he got the clutch back in last February 2011, so i dont know if it is the newer model or not..he says its kevlar on one side...anyways, for a $300 savings, if it is in good shape, it is worth it to me, but who knows...
As far as a 6 puck being not daily driveable, i hear the opposite. most manufacturers say that the 4 puck is the harsh ones and the 6 puck is aggressive, but good for daily driving...

Anyone know if im supposed to get the arp bolts or the standARD gm bolts? Plus, is the zzp tob better than a new stock one?
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:39 PM
  #38  
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I've read the ARP bolts don't clear some aftermarket clutches so I'd just go with the GM bolts. And the ZZP tob is a stock ss/tc tob. Also if you are mechanically inclined and have a few willing buddies, you can do the clutch yourself easily in a weekend and save yourself a grand
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 02:03 PM
  #39  
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i dont have the friends to help is the problem, but thanks for the info man on the bolts and such....
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #40  
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Some people will say it isn't that hard to do but there is a lot of stuff you need to go through to get this done.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #41  
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Honestly isn't hard to do just tedious and you have to disassemble basically the whole front of the car
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #42  
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This ^. And good luck if you don't have a lift, can be done but it must be a real pain in the ass. I would rather do a honda clutch in the dark then go through that again.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:11 PM
  #43  
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lol, yeah honda clutches are easy...
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 10:59 PM
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I've never done a clutch before so I was expecting it to be the worst experience I've ever had with this car but it wasn't as bad as I had thought it was gonna be if that helps lol
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