clutch install problems
Ok, maybe you guys can help me out...
I installed an Exedy, with a new slave, and a new rubber "cap" on the line to the block due to it leaking from being torn slightly. After re-install, I actually had a clutch pedal, enough to dis-engage the clutch, but the pedal was low. After bleeding, I have nothing. Completely lost the pedal. No fluid leaking out of the resivior, when I put vacuum to it, it just pulls tons of air up the line, won't hold vacuum. Has to be leaking somewhere, but there is no fluid coming out, and the slave is brand new and did work perfectly until I bled it the first time. This is not my first clutch job, but this ******* sucks, it shouldn't be this bad to bleed a damn clutch out.
I installed an Exedy, with a new slave, and a new rubber "cap" on the line to the block due to it leaking from being torn slightly. After re-install, I actually had a clutch pedal, enough to dis-engage the clutch, but the pedal was low. After bleeding, I have nothing. Completely lost the pedal. No fluid leaking out of the resivior, when I put vacuum to it, it just pulls tons of air up the line, won't hold vacuum. Has to be leaking somewhere, but there is no fluid coming out, and the slave is brand new and did work perfectly until I bled it the first time. This is not my first clutch job, but this ******* sucks, it shouldn't be this bad to bleed a damn clutch out.
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From: Canada eh!
Ok, maybe you guys can help me out...
I installed an Exedy, with a new slave, and a new rubber "cap" on the line to the block due to it leaking from being torn slightly. After re-install, I actually had a clutch pedal, enough to dis-engage the clutch, but the pedal was low. After bleeding, I have nothing. Completely lost the pedal. No fluid leaking out of the resivior, when I put vacuum to it, it just pulls tons of air up the line, won't hold vacuum. Has to be leaking somewhere, but there is no fluid coming out, and the slave is brand new and did work perfectly until I bled it the first time. This is not my first clutch job, but this ******* sucks, it shouldn't be this bad to bleed a damn clutch out.
I installed an Exedy, with a new slave, and a new rubber "cap" on the line to the block due to it leaking from being torn slightly. After re-install, I actually had a clutch pedal, enough to dis-engage the clutch, but the pedal was low. After bleeding, I have nothing. Completely lost the pedal. No fluid leaking out of the resivior, when I put vacuum to it, it just pulls tons of air up the line, won't hold vacuum. Has to be leaking somewhere, but there is no fluid coming out, and the slave is brand new and did work perfectly until I bled it the first time. This is not my first clutch job, but this ******* sucks, it shouldn't be this bad to bleed a damn clutch out.
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From: Port Perry Ontario
Ok, maybe you guys can help me out...
I installed an Exedy, with a new slave, and a new rubber "cap" on the line to the block due to it leaking from being torn slightly. After re-install, I actually had a clutch pedal, enough to dis-engage the clutch, but the pedal was low. After bleeding, I have nothing. Completely lost the pedal. No fluid leaking out of the resivior, when I put vacuum to it, it just pulls tons of air up the line, won't hold vacuum. Has to be leaking somewhere, but there is no fluid coming out, and the slave is brand new and did work perfectly until I bled it the first time. This is not my first clutch job, but this ******* sucks, it shouldn't be this bad to bleed a damn clutch out.
I installed an Exedy, with a new slave, and a new rubber "cap" on the line to the block due to it leaking from being torn slightly. After re-install, I actually had a clutch pedal, enough to dis-engage the clutch, but the pedal was low. After bleeding, I have nothing. Completely lost the pedal. No fluid leaking out of the resivior, when I put vacuum to it, it just pulls tons of air up the line, won't hold vacuum. Has to be leaking somewhere, but there is no fluid coming out, and the slave is brand new and did work perfectly until I bled it the first time. This is not my first clutch job, but this ******* sucks, it shouldn't be this bad to bleed a damn clutch out.
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I don't have that cap as far as I can remember... Does that cap comes as part of the distribution block? Or italian joe does it sound like I can just get another one of these rubber caps from GM... If so the search engine here sucks anyway I can get some parts numbers for either or both? Thanks for the input! And that really sucks man, I wish I know more about this transmission stuff....
I don't have that cap as far as I can remember... Does that cap comes as part of the distribution block? Or italian joe does it sound like I can just get another one of these rubber caps from GM... If so the search engine here sucks anyway I can get some parts numbers for either or both? Thanks for the input! And that really sucks man, I wish I know more about this transmission stuff....
That's the exact same problem I had. But I never changed the slave that time. I tried to manual bleed it first and got a decent pedal after pumping it up. But it was engauging real close to the floor and the pedal got worse over time. I figured it was just air or something so I went and bought a vacuum pump and tried but I always got air sucked in. Slave was bad and was leaking in the bell housing.
Last edited by ItalianJoe1; May 18, 2008 at 11:04 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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re q-d this is the second time you are doing it so be careful: take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bellhousing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) and turn it over. Make sure you do NOT see in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the q-d. IF YOU DO, Remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the q-d which is attached to the bellhousing. Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. If you remove the slave from the block, then use teflon tape on the threads of the connector. This is a flared fitting and seals on theGM style tube flare, which is good, but the teflon tape is a little extra band aid in case dont want to take it apart again!
bleeding should be easy vacuum is best IMHO but the old pump hold down and bleed works with 2 people well enough. dont run out of brake fluid in the reservoir.
oh put a little grease on the pilot shaft just my 2 cents
bleeding should be easy vacuum is best IMHO but the old pump hold down and bleed works with 2 people well enough. dont run out of brake fluid in the reservoir.
oh put a little grease on the pilot shaft just my 2 cents
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From: Orlando
[QUOTE=ItalianJoe1;2343966]They don't sell the cap itself from what I see, but you can buy the whole line with the cap on it and just take the cap off. Its like $6. I can get you the part # later on if you want.
Are you talking about the whole line from the distribution block up to brake fluid reservior? Cause I thought that cap sits underneath the distribution block from the top of the tranny...
Are you talking about the whole line from the distribution block up to brake fluid reservior? Cause I thought that cap sits underneath the distribution block from the top of the tranny...
No, the line from under that block down to the slave cyl/throwout bearing. Its about 5 inches long or so, with the plastic fitting and cap on one end and the flare fitting on the other end to connect to the slave. Need to pull the trans to change the whole thing, but you can just pull off the cap carefully and transfer it to your car if thats all you need.
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No, the line from under that block down to the slave cyl/throwout bearing. Its about 5 inches long or so, with the plastic fitting and cap on one end and the flare fitting on the other end to connect to the slave. Need to pull the trans to change the whole thing, but you can just pull off the cap carefully and transfer it to your car if thats all you need.
Ah thats what I needed to know. I don't remember looking at that when we had the transmission apart. I will be sure to let the tech know tomorrow when he starts working on it cause I have quit! When I make a trip down to miami I gotta see that thing on the bottle... Should be going sometime at the end of next month
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I have to get this ugly ass black POS outta my driveway so I can start working on my car.
Last edited by ItalianJoe1; May 19, 2008 at 07:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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I'm trying to get your **** gone. I am going to pull the trans for the third time this week and change the slave again. That has to be the problem. Don't know why a brand new part went bad, but **** happens. I had my boy order me up a new one ahead of time so I won't have to wait too long, hopefully pull it down tomorrow and put it back together wednesday after work. I only have a couple hours each day, so I'll do what I can. I want this **** gone, I'm losing way too much money on this job now.
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Diamond, same as everyone else.
I'm trying to get your **** gone. I am going to pull the trans for the third time this week and change the slave again. That has to be the problem. Don't know why a brand new part went bad, but **** happens. I had my boy order me up a new one ahead of time so I won't have to wait too long, hopefully pull it down tomorrow and put it back together wednesday after work. I only have a couple hours each day, so I'll do what I can. I want this **** gone, I'm losing way too much money on this job now.
I'm trying to get your **** gone. I am going to pull the trans for the third time this week and change the slave again. That has to be the problem. Don't know why a brand new part went bad, but **** happens. I had my boy order me up a new one ahead of time so I won't have to wait too long, hopefully pull it down tomorrow and put it back together wednesday after work. I only have a couple hours each day, so I'll do what I can. I want this **** gone, I'm losing way too much money on this job now.
and we anticapted this job to take not long at all lol....did they cover the slave under warranty??
and what compression are the diamonds?
Jason said they will warranty it with no problem at all. I'm taking care of it. Besides, I already laid out money for one, I'm not paying for two.
Pistons are stock replacements. I don't have the money/time to build the car, so just replacing with something stronger for the moment.
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I'll bleed it however it works. I tried doing it normally, and that obviously didn't help, but it could have just been a defective slave from day 1. Who the **** knows.
Jason said they will warranty it with no problem at all. I'm taking care of it. Besides, I already laid out money for one, I'm not paying for two.
Pistons are stock replacements. I don't have the money/time to build the car, so just replacing with something stronger for the moment.
Jason said they will warranty it with no problem at all. I'm taking care of it. Besides, I already laid out money for one, I'm not paying for two.
Pistons are stock replacements. I don't have the money/time to build the car, so just replacing with something stronger for the moment.
and while your there, can u put the two step in the car set at 4500 rpm and get rid of the boost reduction in first?
And you have the bypass line plugged, so your boost is not limited in 1st. Your car just runs like ass. I saw 15 psi in first gear when I was coming home, but that **** feels slow.
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cuz i will be getting tires sooner or later
The two step will mess with you unless you shift super fast though. I wouldn't recommend it with the nitrous, if you shift too slow and the car cuts the fuel, I see bad things happening. Lemme do my pistons first, then i'll do yours.
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so far they ordered a 15 dollar part for it. The tech didn't have time to tell me anymore than that but he told me that it "leaked" when he bled it which is obviously what I told him. So we will see what tomorrow holds!
Ah Man, My Mechanic just finished tearing down the car and removed the flywheel. I couldn't believe how much stuff you have to remove just to get to it!!
Does anyone know about resurfacing the flywheel? Since the original one has fine grooves on it, he is wondering that if he takes it for resurfaceing, is it important to have those grooves on it? or can it just be resurfaced to be smooth all around?
207GT04, don't mean to jack your thread is it cool with you that I posted? If not, I'll remove.
Does anyone know about resurfacing the flywheel? Since the original one has fine grooves on it, he is wondering that if he takes it for resurfaceing, is it important to have those grooves on it? or can it just be resurfaced to be smooth all around?
207GT04, don't mean to jack your thread is it cool with you that I posted? If not, I'll remove.
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From: No where man
Ah Man, My Mechanic just finished tearing down the car and removed the flywheel. I couldn't believe how much stuff you have to remove just to get to it!!
Does anyone know about resurfacing the flywheel? Since the original one has fine grooves on it, he is wondering that if he takes it for resurfaceing, is it important to have those grooves on it? or can it just be resurfaced to be smooth all around?
207GT04, don't mean to jack your thread is it cool with you that I posted? If not, I'll remove.
Does anyone know about resurfacing the flywheel? Since the original one has fine grooves on it, he is wondering that if he takes it for resurfaceing, is it important to have those grooves on it? or can it just be resurfaced to be smooth all around?
207GT04, don't mean to jack your thread is it cool with you that I posted? If not, I'll remove.
This is in order to maintain the proper component balance, friction contact surface taper, and heat transfer characteristics.
WOT
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I know the TUNE has it limited, but you have the line plugged, so the bypass solenoid doesn't see the boost to limit it. Trust me, its not limiting it. I'll take it out of the tune anyway, but it won't make a difference.
The two step will mess with you unless you shift super fast though. I wouldn't recommend it with the nitrous, if you shift too slow and the car cuts the fuel, I see bad things happening. Lemme do my pistons first, then i'll do yours.
The two step will mess with you unless you shift super fast though. I wouldn't recommend it with the nitrous, if you shift too slow and the car cuts the fuel, I see bad things happening. Lemme do my pistons first, then i'll do yours.
Thanks! That explains it. The flywheel is not bad at all, the pressure plate was really roasted!! The clutch itself still looks new!! we compared them side by side and they are almost identical. My car has 34k miles and went through 4 bottles of Nitrous!!
