I have a 2010 cobalt ss an I'm having issues with the clutch disengaging need help.. Changed the clutch about 3k miles ago. Had no issues until the throw out bearing/slave cylinder went bad. In the mean time I also changed the clutch master cylinder. Bled the hell out of it and it was driving fine for a day. Then same problem clutch will not disengage. I have to shut the car off and get it out of gear bleed it again and seems ok for a little while then it happens again I dont know what eles to do. I've jacked the front of the car up and gravity bled the hell out of the car like 5 times I don't think it's air but I'm not sure. Please any help will be greatly appreciated

 

Gravity bleeding doesnt work on these cars very well. They need to be bled the tradional way like brakes in my opinion. Or you tweaked the slave when putting it in.

 

I made a vacuum bleeder out of a drain plug and glued a nipple to it. Worked like a charm. You can also use the bleeder valve on the distribution block, but even that may not work as well as applying vacuum to the reservoir. Apply vacuum and SLOWLY move the clutch pedal in and out. Quick movements can blow out the slave.

 

Ok so I bled the clutch really well and it was good for about two full days driving perfect. Came out this morning and it's stuck. I pushed it out of the driveway and started it in gear and it worked fine. I ran the car for about 30min flawless.. Came home parked it for about an hour came back out no good... I have not lossed any fluid. Now master cyl is new, slave is new, clutch is a Spec stage 3 with frideza flywheel. Has about 15k miles on it. Really need help figuring this out thanks..

 

So you start the car in neutral and it doesn't go into gear (gears grinding)? But if you start the car in gear then it works fine?

 

Yes.. It will sometimes act up at redlite's or stop signs getting it back into gear

 

I'm at a loss of why your clutch would care what gear you're starting in.

 

Shifter cables