engine vibration after new clutch install
engine vibration after new clutch install
I just installed a new clutch in my 08 ss and now I have a vibration, it vibrates between 1500 and 2000 rpms. Any one else had this problem... I have replaced the pressure plate with another new one and it still vibrates so im stumped!!!
are you sure its not a chatter, only way a clutch will make a vibration is either, the pressure plate is loose, you didnt use a alignment tool when installing the clutch, or you have a loose mount . its hard to diag unless you can tell us a lil more.. did you inspect the clutch before it was installed and flywheel.
It vibrates when in gear with the cluch pressed in parked or driving so it can't be the disc.. it can't be outta alignment cause the tranny shaft keeps it aligned and yes I used the tool.. all bolts are tight with locktite on them also all mounts are tight also..
My assumption would be either its normal vibrations because of the heavy. Holding capacity or the flywheel was turned but warped. Only way i see the clutch going bad is if it were loose some how but i dont see how it would be. Did u inspect it all and all looked good..
Yeah it started after I installed the clutch so its not worn out... they sent me a new pressure plate and didn't help so im guessing a flywheel problem but how do u warp a 3/4 in thick piece of steel by turning it?? And yeah it all looked ok and the clutch doesn't chatter when I ease off of it.
IF YOUR VIBRATING and all looked good on inspection meaning you looked at the friction disc an did a visual and physical inspection then you have somthing loose either a bolt for the flywhel, or the pressure plate... from 1-10 rating how bad the vibrationis give me your honest opinion. Cuz my 8 puck had a vibration all the time and so did my 6 puck, but it went away over time. the vibration felt as if the car was in a low rpm in say 5th gear like tat time of vibration or the vibration of gong over gravel. If so for any of these two check your cv axel bearing or intermidiate shaft bearing. where the axel slips into
The disc looked find and I check everything twice or more. Yeah it feels like its lugging down like u have it in fifth gear at 20 mph... but once u get past 2000 its gone. I just don't want it to ruin the engine
Try balancing the engine and trans mounts.
Loosen the front and rear trans mounts and loosen the bolts for the front engine mount. Then rock the engine and let it settle on its own. Re-tighten all the mounts starting with the two trans mounts.
Re-evaluate.
Loosen the front and rear trans mounts and loosen the bolts for the front engine mount. Then rock the engine and let it settle on its own. Re-tighten all the mounts starting with the two trans mounts.
Re-evaluate.
try this but i think yourissue sir is theno slippage of the disc lol... It sounds like it, since its not a kevlar disc theres not any room for slippage . UNLESS YOU GOT KEVLAR THEN id worry lol.
i just shipped a lnf stock clutch with the flywheel and it cost me 45$ from cali to like indiana or somthing. wasnt bad, and i put insurance on it, sold it all for 200$ killer deal lol.
Sounds to me like your motor mounts are preloaded, there's directions on what order to tighten them all up in the service manuals.
Think its something like this but a tad different.
Think its something like this but a tad different.
^^^ When you refer to this, do you mean to loosen the through bolts on the mounts or the bolts to the tranny case? I remember I had a hard time lining up the OTTP S2 mounts to the case itself.
I'll dig into the service manual tonight.
I'll dig into the service manual tonight.
Sub frame install on 3-185 in the '09 Service Manual says...
Tighten the front & rear transaxle mount through bolts in the following order.
- Tighten the rear bolt to 100 N-m (74 lb ft).
- Tighten the front bolt to 100 N-m 74 lb ft).
Tighten the front & rear transaxle mount through bolts in the following order.
- Tighten the rear bolt to 100 N-m (74 lb ft).
- Tighten the front bolt to 100 N-m 74 lb ft).


