Hello,
I just got back from having my clutch replaced.

However, I notice now that the grabing point is almost all the way to the floor.

I got the GMPP clutch, and the LNF Throw Out Bearing.

Is this normal for a new clutch?

 

thats how the gmpp clutch is

 

Ok thanks as long as thats the way it's suposed to be!

 

Possibly. Let it break in some and see if it changes. Sometimes it will. Otherwise you might have air in the system or something.

 

i drove my friends lsj with the gmpp, holy sheet, i love it compared to the stock one.

 

Ok thanks. If it changes I take it that the bite point would move up? If the bite point moves down any I'll be stuck in gear.

 

My buddies cobalt is the same way. We did proper install...just how it is.

 

Does anyone NOT do a proper install? And if they do, wouldn't they not do it properly because the improper way that they did it they believed to be proper therefor even improper installs would be called proper installs?


I'm not doubting your install or the install that I have, but I just wanted to make that point.


I can accept that, I just wanted to make sure it was supposed to be that way.
Thanks,

 

I don't know, my engagement point with the GMPP stayed exactly the same, it's nowhere near the floor. I'd triple check for air in the lines. I know lots of people even after proper bleeding have had just enough air in the jack with it.

 

mines right near the floor as well. been that way almost 3 years. I love it. If it wears any or moves itll move up not down so youll be set.

 

yup mines right at the floor helps for quicker shifts

 

Try 'flicking' the clutch pedal ( something I am getting very good at because my stock clutch install is f'ed up) and see if the 'bite' point moves up. I do this a couple of times during my commute each day to keep the pedal up or it gets low and hard to shift.

 

Um? How does one doe that? When you say Flicking, Im thinking with my finger like you wound a bug on your arm. What exactly do you mean by "flicking" ?




How does having it at the floor make QUICKER shifts? Youd think it would be quicker if it
was at the top?



Ok Good to know, thanks

 

Flicking the pedal......


Push the clutch pedal down and slide your foot off the corner of the pedal such that it pops up. I don't even need to engage the clutch on mine ( just push it down until I have no 'freeplay' and then let it flick back up and my pedal is normal again.)

 

wouldnt it just be easier to fix your clutch so it doesnt do that? that sounds ghetto as hell

 

Well considering I shelled out $1100 last year for a new clutch replacement and the problem only occurs periodically I am in no hurry to fix it. It doesn't impact me enough to want to spend another $1000 that I don't have right now.


Each time it negatively impacts me I utter the words to myself from your last post about getting the damn thing fixed.

Reality is that paying the bills comes first and there isn't enough dough to go around to rfix this issue. I have also been waiting because I wanted to determine it wasn't a bleed issue (which I have since done)

Clutch was new last summer and car was not driven from November to March this year.


I do realize you did not know this. i only suggested this to the OP to see if he was having that same strange problem that has been plaguing me. it certainly should not be considered a 'fix' by any means.

 

my gmpp clutch was very low when i installed it. it took a lot ot get the hydraulics bled, i tried gravity bleeding, reverse bleeding, 2 man bleed, nothing would get it worked out, clutch was low. it was still driveable, but i wasnt happy with it. i ended up reverse vacuum bleeding it. took the brake bleeder at my shop, took a rubber cap and tie-strapped it to the master cylinder, and stuck the vacuum hose on it. after about 20 minutes i tried it, clutch felt better. it was a touch low still, but not right at the floor. about 2-3 weeks of driving and it got to the point its at now. it does take time to get it broken in, but if its right at the floor, you likely still have air in the system. its a bitch to bleed these cars.

 

Ok cool thanks, Maybe I'll give it a shot.
They way you describe is also the way that the LSJ Power book says to do it.

 

just make sure you pump your brakes up real good afterwords. being the clutch and brakes share the same resevior it will pull the pistons in the calipers in.

 

Yes good idea and the LSJ power book talks about that too
Thanks for the warning and tip though.

 

I have 12k on my gmpp clutch. It grabs in the middle. In the beginning it was at the floor. Just get through the break in period. It should go to the middle

 

right the pedal moves up as the lining beds. But if its grabs at the floor, its not bled properly is all.

 

We have a self bleeding hydraulic system no? I would assume it wasn't bled at all if the problem persist.

 

yes. the problem with all this internet stuff is, u have no idea whats happened. for example:
refaced flywheel? not done right?
q d block? not installed right?
clutch pipe? not tightened up correctly?
two seals in q d block? Left when new pipe was installed but old pipe seal stuck in q/d block
clutch cover not installed right? happened recently, so....
cover not centered? Its an LNF cover and the pilot holes are larger than the pins in the LSJ flywheel.
not using a disc centering tool?
forgetting the bellhousing spacer on reinstall?
distorting the clutch disc by tightening the trans onto the engine with lower bolts unequally tightened
clutch pedal m/cyl pushrod clip broken


u get my point. what a nightmare/ I bleed the clutch on re install BEFORE replacing the cradle, the clutch pedal ops are always good etc...

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

For bleeding the clutch/brakes I use the Motive pressure bleeder system. My question is, does it make a difference and is it okay to pump the clutch pedal while the Motive is pumped up holding pressure on the system? Would that help to work out any air?