Don't pump it just let the pressure/vacuum from the machine push the air out

 

Do I then just leave pressure applied to the system for length of time before opening the bleeder as opposed to pressurizing and immediately opening the bleeder?

 

so complicated. pump the pedal moderately slowly two or three times, hold down. open and close bleed screw. repeat once. done. drive.

the initial bite will be low. this will change after a couple of days. If you want to change it right away, just load the car up a bit with a second gear start. Once.

burnished. done.

 

I'll give the old fashion way a try and see if that does anything. I've had the clutch in for about two weeks now, so there are a decent amount of miles on it. Pedal feels the same as when I picked it up.

 

u are a good driver and dont slip clutch, it will last a long time. as it wears it will come off the floor. at the end the engagement will be very high lol

 

When i replaced my gmp clutch with a new one just for the heck of it, i was pleased to find that i had hardly worn down the original gmpp with 20+k miles on and a good amount of racing. Flywheel was reuseable to the point that the machine shop didnt recommend resurfacing it!

 

^^^^ this. Good job. I have similar experience. Last engine change i just did the TOB.

 

This is what I like to hear

 

Mine's in the middle.

The only thing that sucks is when I first start the car, if I put it into R it'll grind like crazy. I put it in 1st, then 5th, then R and it's good. lol

 

My big concern right now with the engagement so low is that it's hard to shift gears at redline under WOT. Have to completely bury the clutch to the floor before engaging the next gear. And even sometimes then there is still a lot of resistance on the shifter.