Heres a quick how to. Delete your balance shafts. First center punch the center of the balance shaft bearing housing. Next drill and tap it to 3/8 pipe thread. Next look in the hole you just made and locate the oil galley hole straight underneath the hole you just drilled. (And um not talking about your old lady.) Now drill and tap that out to 1/8 pipe. Clean the galleys out real good. Now get a 1/8 inch allen galley plug and put some loctite on it and thread it in the oil galley. Next thread your 3/8 plug into the big hole. Your done with that side. Repeat on the other side. Next take your old balance shafts and cut the front journal off so it looks like the picture. Your need these to run your water pump. Your can get everything you need at Lowes. This can only be done if the engine is completely apart. Clean the galleys very good when finished

 

have you had any issues since you completed this? looking at doing it while my motor is out

 

Used this block in my buddies LSJ 80
lbs oil pressure

 

ok great, going to do it while ive got the motor out of my car. Dont want to **** the money away for neutrals or a kit thats irreversible

 

bump have other guys still done this with success? I need to budget my build and this could save me money while the block is out.

 

Point of this?

 

^^ This. Thanks for asking.

 

its in the lsj build book, and recomended on certain cam setups. ( i believe zzp stage 2 and up )

the balance shafts are counter balanced, and turn as the motor runs and neutralizes viberations off the motor to make the ride more comfortable for the user. The act of spinning two counter balanced pieces takes away hp. how much? ive been told 7-12. How true is this? Not 100% sure.

However deleting these will free the motor the stress ( not much ) of having to turn them, and free up that said hp, but in return vibes will be more present in the cabin.

Benefit vs cost + install is more than 90% of the members on this site are willing to subject to.

 

less rotating mass, mo powa (within reason).... higher you rev, the more beneficial it is.

 

I was merely asking if others had tried this with equal success. I showed it to my installer however since then, and it was exactly what he was looking for. My block had to come out regardless and any inexpensive improvements to performance I can make I'll take. My motor build was very unplanned and therefore out of my budget, but unavoidable.

 

Yep.

Reving above 7500 rpm NB shafts should be installed.

About 10 hp is gained from this, but like 07MetallicSC said, 90% of the members on here would never attempt this.

 

i run the neutrals, no vibes what so ever. Paid 50$ for them. GM ones too not zzps

 

I was going to get me a set of the GMR NB's, but I have no plans of ever reving over my current rev limit of 7.5k anymore. It's plenty for me

 

me 8200 on the blower. Now turbo hhhmmmmmm lol

 

Awesome stuff!!!

I don't think my 42's would like 8200 rpm, haha.

 

Good write up.

Im in the camp that believes they do not need to be removed to rev high.

I have never heard of a failure, build book only mentions hp.

I upshift at 8k on my built motor. Guess ill let you know how it holds up

 

i revved to 7600 on the stockers forever stock cams, valve springs, and balance shafts

 

Ur wacky Kenny

Those stock springs were probably crying bloody murder at that rpm, haha.

 

lol yea sometimes i would feel her break up from valve float but stayed in her

 

Ur lucky you didn't drop a valve man

Well, you could fix it anyways. No worries.

 

yep never did. The one time i didnt have float was when she ran a 11 but no slip print out

 

Figures!

 

Quick question... Why all the drill tap and plug? Why not just knock the rear BS bearings down about .150 of an inch and block the oil feed passage that way?

 

Thats another way to do it but dont miss. I ended up using the Level Zero replacement sleeves on my other block with my Bal Shaft Delete .

 

Yeah, I'd definitely rather go with the level zero replacement sleeves. Drilling and tapping the block puts you at a greater risk of the porous block/cracking issues that we all know the ecotecs pose due to improper castings.