Illustrated backyard Exedy and Fidanza install
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Illustrated backyard Exedy and Fidanza install
Hello folks,
I just finished my installation of my clutch and flywheel. I used the excellent instructions from gmperformancedivision.com lsj chapter 5 but that links appears to be dead now so... Well sorry. Look it up, or I can DM it I think.
I ran into issues with the instructions as they were for a 2.0l and slightly different, and the photos were not always descriptive. I'll add some information and photos to supplement the full instruction.
So here goes.
Specs
2006 2.2l manual
Exedy Stage 1
Fidanza lightweight flywheel
DSC_2500 by designeye_q, on Flickr
A temporary engine mount will be installed to replace the drivers side engine/ trans mount. There's a hoist point near the back where you see the chain looping through. a screw will tighten and hold the motor in place.
DSC_2503 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2504 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Our computer boxes are a little different than the SS. You flip the left and right latches latch all the way over, and the connectors will back themselves out.The computer box just lifts right out.
DSC_2508 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Under the computer are a handful of bolts holding the fuse box in, and quite a few assorted snaps and tiedowns. It's a pain to find them all.
DSC_2509 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Undo the jumper post on the fusebox and unbolt all the screws holding the box in. Remove the box so you can get to the Engine/ trans mount on the drivers side.
DSC_2515 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2524 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Zip tie both sides of your radiator to something before moving to under the car.
DSC_2533 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Jack er WAAAY up and get the wheels off. Remove all the wheel liners and assorted plastics in the wells. Grab a beer, eat your Wheaties, and get ready to literally attack the suspension.
DSC_2529 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2530 by designeye_q, on Flickr
To be continued
I just finished my installation of my clutch and flywheel. I used the excellent instructions from gmperformancedivision.com lsj chapter 5 but that links appears to be dead now so... Well sorry. Look it up, or I can DM it I think.
I ran into issues with the instructions as they were for a 2.0l and slightly different, and the photos were not always descriptive. I'll add some information and photos to supplement the full instruction.
So here goes.
Specs
2006 2.2l manual
Exedy Stage 1
Fidanza lightweight flywheel
DSC_2500 by designeye_q, on Flickr
A temporary engine mount will be installed to replace the drivers side engine/ trans mount. There's a hoist point near the back where you see the chain looping through. a screw will tighten and hold the motor in place.
DSC_2503 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2504 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Our computer boxes are a little different than the SS. You flip the left and right latches latch all the way over, and the connectors will back themselves out.The computer box just lifts right out.
DSC_2508 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Under the computer are a handful of bolts holding the fuse box in, and quite a few assorted snaps and tiedowns. It's a pain to find them all.
DSC_2509 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Undo the jumper post on the fusebox and unbolt all the screws holding the box in. Remove the box so you can get to the Engine/ trans mount on the drivers side.
DSC_2515 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2524 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Zip tie both sides of your radiator to something before moving to under the car.
DSC_2533 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Jack er WAAAY up and get the wheels off. Remove all the wheel liners and assorted plastics in the wells. Grab a beer, eat your Wheaties, and get ready to literally attack the suspension.
DSC_2529 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2530 by designeye_q, on Flickr
To be continued
#2
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2
Spanner and ratchet off the lower ball joints.
DSC_2538 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Take off the tie rod ends. You will likely need to use a spanner on the big nut and a small socket on the hexed bottom of the bolt so it doesn't spin on you. After the nuts off, one side just popped off itself, and the other side needed some serious tapping!
DSC_2539 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2542 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Then the MAJOR B**th!!!. The swaybar uprights I screwed with all day. the next day, I chose to dremel cut down the center of the nut and split it off the bolt. GM decided to have a spherical back with no way to hold the bolt from spinning. I found it Impossible to get off. I tried PB Blaster, heat, hammering, curse words, nothing works
DSC_2540 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2559 by designeye_q, on Flickr
On to the next biggest pain. Also using heat and force and prybars, undo the bolt clamping steering u-joint. You can hammer a flat head screw driver in to the split of the clamp, forcing the clamp open and then pry up. Do whatever you can to force the sleeve off the shaft. This won't be easy. (Honest moment, I got it to wiggle but couldn't get it free, so I actually lowered the engine cradle with it still on in hopes that it would release, and it did. I don't recommend that buuut I was drunk and frustrated.)
DSC_2548 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Here you can see me prying using the area where the control-arm mounts as the fulcrum. I was standing on the 24" pry bar.
DSC_2553 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Now the hard parts are mostly behind you. Undo all of the lower radiator brackets (now it's hanging by the zip ties). Support the engine cradle, and begin to unbolt it.Luckily 2 stacked wheels were the height of the engine mount at the height I was jacked to so I supported it in front with those. On the back I used my jack. Unbolt the mount the rest of the way,lower it carefully down, and slide it out from under the car with the control arms and steering rack.
DSC_2557 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2562 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2567 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2538 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Take off the tie rod ends. You will likely need to use a spanner on the big nut and a small socket on the hexed bottom of the bolt so it doesn't spin on you. After the nuts off, one side just popped off itself, and the other side needed some serious tapping!
DSC_2539 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2542 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Then the MAJOR B**th!!!. The swaybar uprights I screwed with all day. the next day, I chose to dremel cut down the center of the nut and split it off the bolt. GM decided to have a spherical back with no way to hold the bolt from spinning. I found it Impossible to get off. I tried PB Blaster, heat, hammering, curse words, nothing works
DSC_2540 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2559 by designeye_q, on Flickr
On to the next biggest pain. Also using heat and force and prybars, undo the bolt clamping steering u-joint. You can hammer a flat head screw driver in to the split of the clamp, forcing the clamp open and then pry up. Do whatever you can to force the sleeve off the shaft. This won't be easy. (Honest moment, I got it to wiggle but couldn't get it free, so I actually lowered the engine cradle with it still on in hopes that it would release, and it did. I don't recommend that buuut I was drunk and frustrated.)
DSC_2548 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Here you can see me prying using the area where the control-arm mounts as the fulcrum. I was standing on the 24" pry bar.
DSC_2553 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Now the hard parts are mostly behind you. Undo all of the lower radiator brackets (now it's hanging by the zip ties). Support the engine cradle, and begin to unbolt it.Luckily 2 stacked wheels were the height of the engine mount at the height I was jacked to so I supported it in front with those. On the back I used my jack. Unbolt the mount the rest of the way,lower it carefully down, and slide it out from under the car with the control arms and steering rack.
DSC_2557 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2562 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2567 by designeye_q, on Flickr
#3
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Undo the axle nut and use a hub puller to get the axle spines to release out of the hub. The rest of the suspension should swing 90 degrees out the way now.
[IMG]DSC_2570 by designeye_q, on Flickr[/IMG]
There's a few mounts on back of the trans that need to come off. Theres an odd bolt on an exhaust shield that needs to be accessed from the top. I's a pain. The SS instructions say to remove a bracket on back of the trans that doesn't exist for us. Took me a while to realize it was for an intermediate shaft we don't have. We've got a long axle and a short one. I left the axles installed and took them with the trans. Makes is a pain to move an maneuver but I think I'd do it that way again.
DSC_2572 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Carefully find all the electrical sensors and unplug. I found the last one as the transmission was lying on my chest. (not recommended!) Theres a little clip holding on the clutch line. (This will look a bit different from the SS) There are 2 cups on the top of the transmission for shifting. I put some tape on these to mark top and bottom. (don't know if that was necessary)
Shifter linkage cups
[IMG]DSC_2576 by designeye_q, on Flickr[/IMG]
various electrical
[IMG]DSC_2571 by designeye_q, on Flickr[/IMG]
Time now to move onto the Bell housing bolts. There is one less bolt than the SS instructions suggest. Took me a while to stop searching. Give the split seam a little ply and it come right off.
Move the transaway, and there you have it folks. Your pressure plate clutch and Flywheel.
DSC_2578 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2579 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2581 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2582 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2583 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2585 by designeye_q, on Flickr
[IMG]DSC_2570 by designeye_q, on Flickr[/IMG]
There's a few mounts on back of the trans that need to come off. Theres an odd bolt on an exhaust shield that needs to be accessed from the top. I's a pain. The SS instructions say to remove a bracket on back of the trans that doesn't exist for us. Took me a while to realize it was for an intermediate shaft we don't have. We've got a long axle and a short one. I left the axles installed and took them with the trans. Makes is a pain to move an maneuver but I think I'd do it that way again.
DSC_2572 by designeye_q, on Flickr
Carefully find all the electrical sensors and unplug. I found the last one as the transmission was lying on my chest. (not recommended!) Theres a little clip holding on the clutch line. (This will look a bit different from the SS) There are 2 cups on the top of the transmission for shifting. I put some tape on these to mark top and bottom. (don't know if that was necessary)
Shifter linkage cups
[IMG]DSC_2576 by designeye_q, on Flickr[/IMG]
various electrical
[IMG]DSC_2571 by designeye_q, on Flickr[/IMG]
Time now to move onto the Bell housing bolts. There is one less bolt than the SS instructions suggest. Took me a while to stop searching. Give the split seam a little ply and it come right off.
Move the transaway, and there you have it folks. Your pressure plate clutch and Flywheel.
DSC_2578 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2579 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2581 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2582 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2583 by designeye_q, on Flickr
DSC_2585 by designeye_q, on Flickr
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