Info from GM about my clutch problems!
12-01-2007, 12:19 AM
#76
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Don't want to start any trouble but Z06's use dot 3 fluid so i think it crap that we would have to use dot 4 or higher... I think the real problem with the clutch is driver input.
12-01-2007, 12:53 AM
#77
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When I was talking to the GM service guy he said, he noticed both the corvette and cobalt having the same problem with the fluids. This is just his recommendation to me. I've tried it and am going to let you guys know my findings. This is by no means a concrete thing. Just trying to bring alittle more clarity to a heated discussion.
12-03-2007, 08:47 AM
#78
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You say that people like me either abuse our clutches or we don't know how to drive, and that the clutch is ok. I say that people like you aren't experienced enough (one way or another) to even know the difference.
That being the case, any "poll" where the people responding might have little/no experience regarding the nature of the poll, would (by it's very nature) have to prove nothing.
So even if you were to take that "highly scientific" poll seriously, I find it interesting that at least 1 out of 7 people have formally replied that the "Clutch is completely at fault. hate it.."
And there you go. 38 people who have reported that the clutch is totally at fault.
keep pounding on those pedals how youve always done mr "blue chip racer"
let us know how its workin out for you.
let us know how its workin out for you.
Stock of a large, national company with a solid record and a reputation for high quality management. More generally, anything of very high quality.
Thanks!
And I'll keep everyone informed as to how my faulty clutch is working out ....
02-07-2008, 03:24 PM
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02-07-2008, 08:37 PM
#81
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Scoot05 red ss. Take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bellhousing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) and turn it over. YOu will probably see in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the q-d. Remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the q-d which is attached to the bellhousing. Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. I suspect that is the cure for your problem. All the guys who have been chiming in about clutch abuse are 100% right. Put in an exedy its the best you can still screw it up if you ride the clutch or abuse it on downshifts and launches.
02-08-2008, 07:47 PM
#82
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Well, my car is in the shop getting a new motor and they pulled my Spec stage 3 clutch out. It's completely gone. Just wore out completely. I ordered a Centerforce DFX and flywheel and I"m going to change the throw out bearing and slave cylinder. Hopefully this will solve my clutch pedal problem. Thanks guys.
03-13-2008, 07:14 PM
#85
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Wow just wow, DOT 3 , 4 and 5 are not grades of fluid, In fact they are not interchangeable at all.
DOT 3 and 4 and 5.1 are mineral oil based (some are synthetic)
DOT 5 is silicone based.
There is NO way GM would put the wrong fluid in the brake clutch system, just about every car is DOT 3, in fact putting DOT 5 in a DOT 3,4,5.1 system would not do you any better than just replacing it with DOT 3.
DOT 3 and 4 and 5.1 are mineral oil based (some are synthetic)
DOT 5 is silicone based.
There is NO way GM would put the wrong fluid in the brake clutch system, just about every car is DOT 3, in fact putting DOT 5 in a DOT 3,4,5.1 system would not do you any better than just replacing it with DOT 3.
Last edited by zinner; 03-13-2008 at 07:38 PM.
03-13-2008, 07:28 PM
#86
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OK guys, well I don't want to burst anyone's bubble, but this did not help MY problem, which was mainly the clutch pedal loosing pressure and being very inconsistent. Now as far as the GM guy telling me about it, what can it hurt for you guys with the stock clutch to go ahead and upgrade to DOT4 or higher? If i had heard this while i was running the stock I definately would have upgraded. Now, the slipping I'm not so sure on. I haven't been really hard on the car yet to know if it will slip. It wasn't really slipping bad before. I think it was wheel spin in second, and the motor rev was making me think slippage. I"m taking her to the track tomorrow night. I'll def repost after and tell you guys about the slipping which shouldn't happen. Now back to my original question, does anyone have any idea what could make my pedal sometimes be hard and grab instantly and sometimes almost hit the floor and engage at the last second? All I can think is a seal or something with the clutch master cylinder is going out and allowing it to loose pressure. I'm completely stumped and dishearted with the problem. Anyway, just wanted to post and I'll catch you up tomorrow after the track.
I continued to bleed the crap out of it and still very little improvement. Took it to a shop to bleed it and it improved a bit more, but it was still going soft on me.
I replaced the clutch master cylinder and it has improved a lot, but it still gets funny sometimes. This is really annoying and when it happens its hard to shift gears. I don't want to damage my syncros.
Curious as to what is causing this problem.
Could it just be air in the line still?
03-13-2008, 07:40 PM
#87
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I have had the same problem since I put in my SPEC stg. 3+ flywheel. The clutch pedal has been all over the place. It it not consistant in its engagement point at all.
I continued to bleed the crap out of it and still very little improvement. Took it to a shop to bleed it and it improved a bit more, but it was still going soft on me.
I replaced the clutch master cylinder and it has improved a lot, but it still gets funny sometimes. This is really annoying and when it happens its hard to shift gears. I don't want to damage my syncros.
Curious as to what is causing this problem.
Could it just be air in the line still?
I continued to bleed the crap out of it and still very little improvement. Took it to a shop to bleed it and it improved a bit more, but it was still going soft on me.
I replaced the clutch master cylinder and it has improved a lot, but it still gets funny sometimes. This is really annoying and when it happens its hard to shift gears. I don't want to damage my syncros.
Curious as to what is causing this problem.
Could it just be air in the line still?
03-13-2008, 07:43 PM
#88
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Dude I hate to tell you this, but you HAVE to replace your slave cylinder and throw out bearing (All One Piece) NOW. That's the problem and it's going to RUIN your clutch Iknow it did on my car. I had to replace the clutch and flywheel. Look into it now before it's too late.
I couldn't even find the complete unit on gmpartsdirect.com They were all individual parts.
Its BS that they would design a system that connot be blead!
03-13-2008, 07:44 PM
#89
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I got mine from crateenginedepot.com. It's all one piece. It's like $80 someodd dollars. Sorry man I konw it's a headache to pul it all off just to change that.
03-13-2008, 07:51 PM
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I may take it to the dealer and have them bleed it. They should be able to. Otherwise why even have quick disconnects on it?
Its not that bad since I got the new master, but its still not right.
I don't have time to work on it for a while now.
03-13-2008, 08:28 PM
#91
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this is most probably the seal on the q-d stuck in the female q-d I wrote this a few weeks back:Take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bellhousing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) and turn it over. YOu will probably see in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the q-d. Remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the q-d which is attached to the bellhousing. Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. I suspect that is the cure for your problem.
03-13-2008, 09:33 PM
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03-13-2008, 09:38 PM
#93
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Its getting better for sure. I am now curious about the post above yours!?!?
Maybe that could be part of it? I seems to be much better though.
this is most probably the seal on the q-d stuck in the female q-d I wrote this a few weeks back:Take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bellhousing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) and turn it over. YOu will probably see in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the q-d. Remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the q-d which is attached to the bellhousing. Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. I suspect that is the cure for your problem.
Last edited by Red2.4SS; 03-13-2008 at 09:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-14-2008, 12:04 PM
#94
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Oh i've been vacuum bleeding it with my Schucks POS
Its getting better for sure. I am now curious about the post above yours!?!?
Maybe that could be part of it? I seems to be much better though.
Would there not be a fluid leak though? I haven't noticed any leakage? Just the feeling of air in the system.
Its getting better for sure. I am now curious about the post above yours!?!?
Maybe that could be part of it? I seems to be much better though.
Would there not be a fluid leak though? I haven't noticed any leakage? Just the feeling of air in the system.
03-14-2008, 08:47 PM
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