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Question is what did they (customer) ask for? If they asked for a stage 4 full face and it failed, how can KY know what your goals are?
If you stated I want 500 lbs torque up front and let them tell you what you need, that is a different story. If this was the case, then we agree they should set a higher standard for what power is being asked to hold.
I was told the 4+ was rated for around 565ctq. So I was either misdirected or there was a pp issue. Either way switching the clutch was easy on jack stands with hand tools if you've done it at least once.
I remember reading in the TTR clutch thread they didn't want to offer full face disks bc of tq capacity. Maybe there is a reason the 4+ isn't on their website, not sure if we played Guinea pig or not. James mentioned he had it on his car or something and it held up fine with a lot of power. I actually ordered a stage 3+ from him but they sent me a stage 4+ for some reason.
as far as long term changes, maybe TTR can ask Chris if there has been many failures with the full face disks idk.
Question is what did they (customer) ask for? If they asked for a stage 4 full face and it failed, how can KY know what your goals are?
If you stated I want 500 lbs torque up front and let them tell you what you need, that is a different story. If this was the case, then we agree they should set a higher standard for what power is being asked to hold.
When I called and spoke with Martin, I stated that I needed something capable of 500lb/ft or better and somewhat daily driver friendly. I told them I had a turbo that spooled like stock/hit hard. He mentioned that they had been having some good luck with their S3 and S4+. After having driven a S3 before, I didn't want that and inquired further about the S4+, mentioning that I had seen someone recently post about it. Martin stated that the S4+ was easily capable of 550+ lb/ft and would have smoother driving characteristics.
all that aside, I'm too far into this to just say F it and give up. I'm grateful for the service I've received and will try again now that 08VR has given me a little help with how to more easily swap the clutch.
Didn't get a chance to use a lift but did work on the car slowly throughout the week. Got my hands on a transmission jack and my god, it made things so much easier, both coming out and going back in. Literally stabbed her back in on the first try!
Here's what came out. You can see on the pressure plate that it cracked on the inside and outside, all the way around. The disc itself is barely making contact and you can see that it put some nice hotspots on the flywheel. You can also see the disc itself had to have been bouncing around in there as I assumed because there was all kinds of marks and damage to the disc as well as the rivets that hold it together
Yeah man, for sure. Turbo is great but I haven't been able to enjoy it for a while now!
Originally Posted by royce777
Also I would use a factory LNF TOB, from my understanding the ones with the green dust boot can cause problems.
One of the first things I did was purchase an LNF TOB and new clutch pipe for the replacement clutch KY sent me.
So far, I've got about 125 city/stop and go miles on the stage 5 PP/6 puck setup and it's been great! Pedal pressure is drastically increased but I like it. It almost has a spring type bounce return, which is perfect for the way I like to drive. I like to get off of the clutch as quickly as possible and this definitely allows for that without abrupt engagement.
One thing I don't like is that inability to easily slip the clutch. My new home has a decently steep driveway and it chatters real bad when pulling into my garage. Oh well!
Just FYI, the green one ky sends is a Saab TOB, not the lsj, it's fine. It's working with my frankenclutch no problem, as I didn't change it. My replacement is holding like Chuck Norris' hands gripping the flywheel now.
The chatter will go away after break in miles, mine was not easy to slip at first, now with like 900 miles it's fine and easy to slip.
Just FYI, the green one ky sends is a Saab TOB, not the lsj, it's fine. It's working with my frankenclutch no problem, as I didn't change it. My replacement is holding like Chuck Norris' hands gripping the flywheel now.
The chatter will go away after break in miles, mine was not easy to slip at first, now with like 900 miles it's fine and easy to slip.
All I know, regarding the TOB, is that my car isn't making the thumping noises anymore. So I'm good with that!
Yeah, I figured the chatter would get better as it broke in with more miles. If not, I'm going drive the car into a wall and jump just before impact
I've found the best way to reduce the likelihood of chatter when taking off in 1st gear is to blip the throttle and quickly release the clutch. Seems to work really well. Curious to know how you're doing it?
Same way, I never hold a constant rpm when taking off, usually a few quick blips while smoothly releasing. Works every time. I'm on 29psi and it's doing great. Switching to e47 in the coming weeks.
After crossing the 700 mile marker, almost all chatter has disappeared and the engagement point has improved. At first, it was closer to the top. It's now moved down to the middle (like stock) and I find that it's much improved over the 4+ overall.
After crossing the 700 mile marker, almost all chatter has disappeared and the engagement point has improved. At first, it was closer to the top. It's now moved down to the middle (like stock) and I find that it's much improved over the 4+ overall.
06-30-2017, 05:50 PM
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