get which ever one holds the torque
i'm ordering my replacement directly from KY so idk which stage is which i just told them the power i make is the same as before when i ordered the first one, they are really nice guys

 

I actually had no fluid loss at all. I even checked inside of the bell housing through the inspection port and it was completely dry in there as well. I was however apparently sucking in a bunch of air through the crappy bleeder port which would cause me to lose most of the pedal feel until it was eventually basically undriveable.

 

Oh ok I am getting paranoid as usual lol but hopefully mine is still in good shape since I didn't order a new one and need to get my car back on the road ASAP my clutch kit will be here Monday

 

Stage 3 will be perfect for most. If you visit the track weekly, then go for the 4.

 

I'm going to be installing my clutch right before I go on a trip carlisle PA I was just wondering if I should give it a break in period before doing 700 miles? Wondering if anyone has any advice !

 

The drive should be your break in period, that is a perfect break in method! Long trip, little abuse....

 

Alright that's awsome to hear then ill have it on cruise control the entire time !

 

i was told not to drive highway when i broke my clutch in...so i putted around town like a g-ma not going above 3500rpms for 500 miles, hardest thing to do in my life

 

Hey i love putting it in GRANDMA'S ANUSSSSS don't talk bad about them

 

OMFW, I've been raped by a moderator!

 

what??!! who did this madness>?!?!

 

You cannot deny how slow you drive. I've got too many miles driving behind you. :p

 

it was cause of trifecta tooonn

 

bullcrap. It was the helium in your sneakers. You can go over 55 with a Trifecta.

 

ya 60 is about Max with it lol

 

Dave get a Trifecta. Dave get a Trifecta. waawaawaaaaaaa.

 

im ordering a ky stage 3 for my 2.2 this week.. i have k04 turbo and will eventually build it.. from what i read i like

 

Awesome! Sounds great.

 

I had a KY3, resurfaced flywheel. It only chattered when I didn't give it enough gas off a start, and sometimes I would get the 1st gear squeal. And my pedal engament was at the very tip top, made daily driving it a challenge. I put 13k+ miles on it before I sold it and as far as I know it's still holding, and I NLS'd religiously.

 

I believe I've put over around 1000 miles on it by now...still chatters like a bitch.

 

can anyone tell me if you have to remove the subframe to change the clutch? GM says you have top to change the clutch. thanks!

 

There are some that say you don't have to, but I would strongly suggest removing it. It just frees up a ton of room down there and honestly makes things alot easier. You may want to invest in an engine support bar though if you don't already have one. Otherwise the entire drivetrain has nothing to support it once you pull the subframe.

 

What's an engine support bar? Just like anything to support the engine?

 

ehh sort of. It's a metal bar specifially designed to support the engine or drivetrain from above the engine bay. The biggest benefits to using a support bar over something like jackstands or a piece of wood under the engine is:

1) it gives you MUCH more room to work under the car or truck
2) there is no chance of accidentally knocking the stand out from under the engine
3) there is no chance of damaging the oil pan, or engine/engine componants being supported.

I've seen guys in the past use stacked 2x4's as a support bar, but that's just way too ghetto for my taste to be honest, and is just a knucklehead move in my book.. lol

Here's the bar that I have personally.. 1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar. It's by no means the absolute best bar out there, but the price is amazing and it has worked great for me the times I have needed it.

 

i just installed this kit last week ive got 280 miles on it now everything is working great my only worry is it grabs within the last inch of play on my pedal its my DD and its a bitch on the hills has anyone else ran into this issue if so what helped to bring the engaging point back down....also i have a power bleeder and i know 100% there isnt any air in the system any help would be great thx!