Drivetrain Transmission, LSD, Clutch, Driveline, Axles...

need help on dot4 fluid choice?

Old Dec 12, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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need help on dot4 fluid choice?

I saw prestone dot4 synthetic at walmart and was wondering if anyone has used it on our balts? i need some names of good dot4, i don't track every weekend but I'm doing it more often and need to upgrade. thanks for the input everyone.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 10:42 AM
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ATE SuperBlue DOT4 is what I use, and a few others that I know (not all cobalts), run.

Last edited by AaronJ; Dec 12, 2012 at 01:06 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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what about MOTUL RBF600? look about same price as ATE SUPERBLUE?
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 09slowbaltSS
what about MOTUL RBF600? look about same price as ATE SUPERBLUE?
Yeah, Motul was the other one I've heard of. I heard that people rotate the two, since ATE is blue and Motul is yellow/orange. That way it's easy to bleed the lines and tell when you got the last one out. ATE comes in cans large enough to fill the system like 1.5 times, so I'm sure I'll just bleed enough out of the lines in the spring to fit the rest of the 1 can, but in 2014 when I change the fluid I'll probably run the MOTUL just for the color change during the swap.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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I prefer willwood 570 good value change it annually. The higher the boiling point the more hygroscopic the fluid becomes, so if you accidentally leave the cap off your master cylinder for an hour or so on a humid day you can enjoy really good watery brake fluid.
Or if you open a fresh tin and cap it and leave it on the shelf for a couple of months... date it when you open it, keep the cap on tight, toss it after 30 days from being opened.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
I prefer willwood 570 good value change it annually. The higher the boiling point the more hygroscopic the fluid becomes, so if you accidentally leave the cap off your master cylinder for an hour or so on a humid day you can enjoy really good watery brake fluid.
Or if you open a fresh tin and cap it and leave it on the shelf for a couple of months... date it when you open it, keep the cap on tight, toss it after 30 days from being opened.
Hmm, good to know. Maybe I will be changing all of the fluid this spring instead of next, and I'll be tossing the open can of ATE I have
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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where can i get wilwood and how much?
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by 09slowbaltSS
where can i get wilwood and how much?
I was gonna be mean and tell you google but i did it for you, I assume if you live in Ft Bragg you are military so you be 'scused.

lol

Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Specialty OEM, Racing, and Street Performance Bolt-On Brake Kits

summitt sell it on ebay for under 6.00 a tin, and 5 bux shipping, but if it was me I would buy a case, ( I do, lasts for most of the year for me and my customers) you can get a lot of stuff like this at most speed shops.
i tried to find speedshops in Fayetteville and didnt trip over it....napa dont carry it, Pep boys may, call around and find out or email willwood.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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I found this on the LX forums


bleed all four wheels in about 15 minutes) I want good fluid that I don't spend my a$$ on.

•Amsoil 600 brake fluid is DOT 4 and has a dry boiling point of 580 degrees. A single 12 oz bottle is $13.05 plus shipping (Amsoil site).
•Wilwood 570 fluid is DOT3 and has a dry boiling point of 570 degrees. A single 12 oz bottle is $4.95 plus shipping (EBay).
•Wilwood 600 fluid is I think DOT4 and has a dry boiling point of 626 degrees. A single 12 oz bottle is $16.25 plus shipping (EBay).
•Motul600 is similar to Wilwood 600 in performance and pricing
•Valvoline Synpower has a dry boiling point of 502 degrees. I can't find anyone who sells the stuff.
•The ATE stuff that SRT8U posted up is DOT4 and has a dry boiling point of 509 degrees. ATE is sold by the liter and its pricing puts it down in the vicinity of the Wilwood fluid.
I found this very excellent comparison page at Pegasus Racing.

The fluid I pick is Wilwood 570. It has a pretty high dry boiling point that is just a bit under the 600-degree fluids that cost a LOT more. Its cheap enough that I can bleed my brakes all day (takes about 1/2 bottle to do a quick 4-wheel track bleed) and not care. Its DOT3 and as such its absolutely conventional stuff. All I had to do is start pouring it in. But really that last point is very, very minor. Still, if I ever need to stop by Pep Boys for brake fluid I can pour whatever they have on the shelf right in.

I actually buy the Wilwood fluid by the case (24 bottles) on EBay to drop my cost further. I go thru about 2.5 bottles in a track day. Should last me about a year.

Do yourself a big fat favor and get this bleeder bottle:

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=2926
Last edited by MattRobertson; 02-07-2008 at 02:44 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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lol.... thanks i did some research and foundit on ebay but for $40/ 6 pack from Hoerr Racing Products. is that a good deal? also no one here locally carries it, and yea im pretty good at researching just always helps to get a better input from other who have the car......

for some reason the bleeder bottle link didnt work....
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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Wilwood EXP 600 Plus is $20/ 16.9 oz bottle on ebay from Wilwood themselves
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 09slowbaltSS
lol.... thanks i did some research and foundit on ebay but for $40/ 6 pack from Hoerr Racing Products. is that a good deal? also no one here locally carries it, and yea im pretty good at researching just always helps to get a better input from other who have the car......

for some reason the bleeder bottle link didnt work....
really. |I would do 570 not the 600 and the bleeder bottle? I found one somewhere really good price, i want to say harbor freight or walmart.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...kit-37201.html


https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...D%3DBRAKETOOLS

Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Dec 12, 2012 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:34 PM
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does it matter what bleeder bottle since i need to do this asap....... i have a local HF that i can pic it up from tomorrow....

oh and also my current brake fluid was exposed to humidity for 48hr, since i did my brakes already and forgot to put the cap on the reservoir.....is that going to affect anything, as far as how i have to flush it now?
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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I have original fluid for 102k miles...i should feel bad.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
More:
I found this on the LX forums


bleed all four wheels in about 15 minutes) I want good fluid that I don't spend my a$$ on.

•Amsoil 600 brake fluid is DOT 4 and has a dry boiling point of 580 degrees. A single 12 oz bottle is $13.05 plus shipping (Amsoil site).
•Wilwood 570 fluid is DOT3 and has a dry boiling point of 570 degrees. A single 12 oz bottle is $4.95 plus shipping (EBay).
•Wilwood 600 fluid is I think DOT4 and has a dry boiling point of 626 degrees. A single 12 oz bottle is $16.25 plus shipping (EBay).
•Motul600 is similar to Wilwood 600 in performance and pricing
•Valvoline Synpower has a dry boiling point of 502 degrees. I can't find anyone who sells the stuff.
•The ATE stuff that SRT8U posted up is DOT4 and has a dry boiling point of 509 degrees. ATE is sold by the liter and its pricing puts it down in the vicinity of the Wilwood fluid.
I found this very excellent comparison page at Pegasus Racing.

The fluid I pick is Wilwood 570. It has a pretty high dry boiling point that is just a bit under the 600-degree fluids that cost a LOT more. Its cheap enough that I can bleed my brakes all day (takes about 1/2 bottle to do a quick 4-wheel track bleed) and not care. Its DOT3 and as such its absolutely conventional stuff. All I had to do is start pouring it in. But really that last point is very, very minor. Still, if I ever need to stop by Pep Boys for brake fluid I can pour whatever they have on the shelf right in.

I actually buy the Wilwood fluid by the case (24 bottles) on EBay to drop my cost further. I go thru about 2.5 bottles in a track day. Should last me about a year.

Do yourself a big fat favor and get this bleeder bottle:

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=2926
Last edited by MattRobertson; 02-07-2008 at 02:44 AM.
^So, wait... after all this, why wouldn't you recommend the ATE Superblue as well if it has a lower boiling point (less hydroscopic) than the Wilwood 570, and is about the same price? Just because it's DOT4?
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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because under heavy braking you want fluid that wont boil. when fluid boils it crates bubbles, bubbles = air. you can compress air, this will lead to a spongy pedal. he's recommending the willwood DOT 3 as it is universal if you're in a pinch, still has a high boiling point and cost is much lower than the comparative DOT4's

atleast thats what i got out of it.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 09:25 PM
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From: Port Perry
^^^^this.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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^^^^X2..... not looking to break the bank since i just put over 1k into the vehicle....lol little things add up and its XMAS...

thanks everyone i always get some great help on here, by far the best place to get info on out Balts.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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oh and as far as my fluid being exposed for 48hr.... any issues i should worry about?
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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i use wilwood 570 actually gotta order some more soon and do a fluid change lol
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 09slowbaltSS
oh and as far as my fluid being exposed for 48hr.... any issues i should worry about?
for sure. this attracts moisture which lowers the boiling point...a lot. Left open for 48 hours? use it for cleaning brake parts.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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thanks again everyone for your help just ordered wilwood 570 off amazon $40/ 6 cans.....

how much will i need to do a complete flush including clutch and maybe brake booster? considering this will be my first and have to look up the HOW TO on this and take my time to do it right.

Last edited by 09slowbaltSS; Dec 12, 2012 at 10:51 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 11:00 PM
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about 3 or so

i did full fluid change and had 3 and a lil more left but i threw out the lil less lol
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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do you know of a link to a HOW TO thread to do a complete flush, or maybe just give me a quick run down of where to start, i've found a few but not a complete flush thread....thanks
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 12:15 AM
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i didnt do it so nope lol had them install my ss lines and fluid at the same time
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