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So I had to replace my trans a month ago or so. I was blindsided with having to do it the following day because my access to a lift was going to be taken away for over a month and I wanted to get this trans replaced.
That basically forced me to find a clutch locally to get the job done that weekend.
I ended up finding a parts store locally that claimed to have the stock clutch for an 09 SS so I paid too much and picked it up. I wanted a new clutch on hand as I had no idea what was in the car nor did I know if it was part of my high rpm shifting problems. Whatever clutch is in there has an extremely low engagement point so I figured there was a small chance this was part of my shifting issues.
Pulled the trans and figured out it had a clutchmasters FX300 + aluminum flywheel in it.
I didn't want to take any chances so I put the new "stock" clutch in the car and left the aluminum flywheel in there. I didn't anticipate the need for a flywheel or I would have bought one in advance.
The LUK clutch I picked up locally and put in has a self adjusting pressure plate.
Get it all together and wouldn't ya know this don't hold torque in 3rd at all. I gave it plenty of time to break in and it just isn't going to cut it.
Did some research AFTER the fact and wouldn't ya know it appears the LSJ came with the LUK self adjusting setup and we all know the LSJ clutch is less capable than the stock LNF clutch. Damn.
So I picked up a STOCK LNF clutch. OEM, from GM. Sachs NON self adjusting PP.
I am well aware of the GMPP LSJ upgrade. CED said don't do it. Yeah I know there's a billion people who did and it works fine. I get it.
I pm'd several people on here who chimed in on stock LNF clutches holding plenty of torque and got confirmation from many that the stock LNF holds fine.
I figure as long as I give it proper seat in time along with a new steel flywheel I should be in business.
I am self tuned, full bolt on, stock turbo.
Got my fingers crossed that this will be the last time I pull my trans for a while!
Last edited by firehawk618; 12-18-2015 at 02:47 AM.
i found the stock clutch is actually really good! in fact i thought for sure it was going to start slipping at 400+whp but its still holding strong. if you can keep from launching/no lift shifting and keep power coming in linear the stock clutch is surprisingly capable
i found the stock clutch is actually really good! in fact i thought for sure it was going to start slipping at 400+whp but its still holding strong. if you can keep from launching/no lift shifting and keep power coming in linear the stock clutch is surprisingly capable
No fun lol. I like kevins setup, stock disc, heavy plate.
I have a Southbend Stg4 with stock disc on a Fidanza flywheel. It holds all the power I have thrown at it and engages really smoothly so launching for a race or just DD in traffic works great. I have a plan I am gonna go with for my next setup but I hope this lasts for a couple more seasons
You made a great choice. The stock clutch is rather robust for a stock unit and can handle quite a bit, so long as you aren't trying to make boost under 2K RPM
My stock clutch has 54K miles on it and holds my E40/K04R. My Dad put in a brand new stocker that I had laying in wait for my car when he blew 5th gear and was forced to replace the transmission (lucky SOB scored one with less than 3K miles on it) and it holds his E40/K04R as well. His cal is a bit more aggressive than mine and zero slip, even with NLS
Originally Posted by firehawk618
Just pump gas. IIRC 92 octane here.
I will raise that 95 to a 96
Do you recommend fooling with the following table?
If I were you, I would further massage your MALT table so that it's not requesting input from your further right columns of the DAL table during normal driving, especially if you've modified it, which you have. I would suggest starting over with a stock DAL table and working from there. There is no reason to be requesting over 255 now that we have all of the proper tables available.
I would DEFINITELY recommend using the Max Torque x Gear table to smooth out any boost spikes and to keep **** from breaking. To be honest, it's going to be one of the most powerful torque reduction tables available to you. Anything else affects overall boost in all gears. With this table, you can set your targeted boost level and then go about smoothing/reducing from there. Here's mine for example *I wouldn't recommend just using my inputs as it's tailored to my CAL/other tables*
You made a great choice. The stock clutch is rather robust for a stock unit and can handle quite a bit, so long as you aren't trying to make boost under 2K RPM
My stock clutch has 54K miles on it and holds my E40/K04R. My Dad put in a brand new stocker that I had laying in wait for my car when he blew 5th gear and was forced to replace the transmission (lucky SOB scored one with less than 3K miles on it) and it holds his E40/K04R as well. His cal is a bit more aggressive than mine and zero slip, even with NLS
If I were you, I would further massage your MALT table so that it's not requesting input from your further right columns of the DAL table during normal driving, especially if you've modified it, which you have. I would suggest starting over with a stock DAL table and working from there. There is no reason to be requesting over 255 now that we have all of the proper tables available.
I would DEFINITELY recommend using the Max Torque x Gear table to smooth out any boost spikes and to keep **** from breaking. To be honest, it's going to be one of the most powerful torque reduction tables available to you. Anything else affects overall boost in all gears. With this table, you can set your targeted boost level and then go about smoothing/reducing from there. Here's mine for example *I wouldn't recommend just using my inputs as it's tailored to my CAL/other tables*
That's very encouraging for me as far as the clutch goes. Thank you.
I am going to take a good look at the MALT and DAL tables as you say.
Are you saying on the DAL that it should be zero's when cruising / under no load?
Thanks again for any input on this.
Originally Posted by KMO43
What are your WGDC set to?
It's set to 95%
I followed some very old LNF tuning guides and do appreciate any and all input!
12-18-2015, 02:36 AM
