Solid mounts F23 trans
01-27-2014, 12:09 AM
#1
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Solid mounts F23 trans
A lot of our vendors offer solid trans mounts for the F23, but I'm not sure what to go with. Why are some just called solid mounts and others are rotated solid mounts?
Also, what have some of you other F23 guys had luck with on trans mounts?
Also, what have some of you other F23 guys had luck with on trans mounts?
01-27-2014, 12:36 AM
#3
Who besides Powell sells F23 mounts? Anyways though that's what I have, his front rotated mount the stock upper mount, rear LNF mount with the spacer. Have Powell's cabs in LSJ FE5 control arms as well as the other set of CABs he sells for the control arm. Quite a bit money wise but I'd say well worth it if you want to put down any sort of power.
01-29-2014, 12:25 AM
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So I'd need FE5 control arms for Powell's cabs? If that the case then I'll have to shop for a pair.
As for the mounts, should I try to get rotated or just solid replacement bushings? Going to be on sportlines sometime this year if that makes a difference.
As for the mounts, should I try to get rotated or just solid replacement bushings? Going to be on sportlines sometime this year if that makes a difference.
01-29-2014, 12:33 AM
#5
Rotated Powell front mount and rear LNF mount with the spacer that comes with the rotated mount.
Sportlines aren't the best spring out there and for some reason the Eibach springs have broken more than a few times on the cobalts.
There is a few LSJ FE5 control arms listed in the classifieds, mongo has a set as well as Mr.Noob or something like that.
Sportlines aren't the best spring out there and for some reason the Eibach springs have broken more than a few times on the cobalts.
There is a few LSJ FE5 control arms listed in the classifieds, mongo has a set as well as Mr.Noob or something like that.
01-29-2014, 06:38 AM
#6
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I've had the poly trans mount bushings for almost 7 years. If I hadn't to do it over again I wouldn't get them. They make so much noise, not worth it. Eventually I'll make the switch to rotated mounts but it's not high on my list of things I need to spend money on.
As far as sportlines, they sit well, the car looks good but, they ride like hell. You will feel and hear everything you drive over.
As far as sportlines, they sit well, the car looks good but, they ride like hell. You will feel and hear everything you drive over.
02-02-2014, 08:40 AM
#9
We make three type of rotated mounts:
• aluminum 4130 machined with A class voided bushing all LNF 2008-2010 /LSJ 2005/2007 includes Cobalt and Ion Redline except 2004- currently out of stock, no plans to make more.
• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• composite pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount, or (preferred, upgrade rear mount to an LNF TURBO mount. LNF of course dont really need a stage 2. We do make custom solid race mounts for the clearly racecar applications but they are stupid for street use, the vibration is unacceptable. a SOLID mount uses a stock housing with a composite material in the center with an alloy sleeve to provide support for the cross bolt. I wont tell you what the material is, but it is NOT delrin. Early race cars used a big chunk of alloy as a center plug. That was expensive to make and a pita to weld in to the mount.
Over the past 9 years, we have made four types of rotated mounts.
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. T
1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.
The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle output to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors (OTT and TTR) copied my mounts. Some other vendors produce “rotated “ mounts that in fact are stock orientation, not rotated at all.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.
I also know a lot more about these mounts than most folks do. Its easy, I drive the delta platform and work on the platform every day servicing customer cars, and working on race cars and my own car.
Please understand that the rotated mount concept exploits the soft driver side torque axis mount, without repositioning it, but the best installs reposition both the drivers and the passenger side mount as the shoulder bolts that secure these mounts have large holes in the mount that permits relocation.
Also note that the automatic transmission Delta's do not need this type of rotation, the car was designed for the automatic, and the manual transmissions happen to be about 15 mm out of axle alignment by comparison. I have been working for over a year on a firmer automatic trans mount system; no need to rotate them, but may need to raise the motor for extreme slammed lowering spring set ups. Not done yet, and I am not sure when I will be able to devote more time to it. For automatic cars that are slammed, Randy on here has done the best job, and just drives very carefully.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 02-02-2014 at 08:46 AM.
07-05-2015, 05:59 PM
#10
New Member
there are lots of threads on here about this, but I think the search button may be difficult to find some of the answers. Here is my take on this subject:
We make three type of rotated mounts:
• aluminum 4130 machined with A class voided bushing all LNF 2008-2010 /LSJ 2005/2007 includes Cobalt and Ion Redline except 2004- currently out of stock, no plans to make more.
• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• composite pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount, or (preferred, upgrade rear mount to an LNF TURBO mount. LNF of course dont really need a stage 2. We do make custom solid race mounts for the clearly racecar applications but they are stupid for street use, the vibration is unacceptable. a SOLID mount uses a stock housing with a composite material in the center with an alloy sleeve to provide support for the cross bolt. I wont tell you what the material is, but it is NOT delrin. Early race cars used a big chunk of alloy as a center plug. That was expensive to make and a pita to weld in to the mount.
Over the past 9 years, we have made four types of rotated mounts.
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. T
1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.
The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle output to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors (OTT and TTR) copied my mounts. Some other vendors produce “rotated “ mounts that in fact are stock orientation, not rotated at all.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.
I also know a lot more about these mounts than most folks do. Its easy, I drive the delta platform and work on the platform every day servicing customer cars, and working on race cars and my own car.
Please understand that the rotated mount concept exploits the soft driver side torque axis mount, without repositioning it, but the best installs reposition both the drivers and the passenger side mount as the shoulder bolts that secure these mounts have large holes in the mount that permits relocation.
Also note that the automatic transmission Delta's do not need this type of rotation, the car was designed for the automatic, and the manual transmissions happen to be about 15 mm out of axle alignment by comparison. I have been working for over a year on a firmer automatic trans mount system; no need to rotate them, but may need to raise the motor for extreme slammed lowering spring set ups. Not done yet, and I am not sure when I will be able to devote more time to it. For automatic cars that are slammed, Randy on here has done the best job, and just drives very carefully.
We make three type of rotated mounts:
• aluminum 4130 machined with A class voided bushing all LNF 2008-2010 /LSJ 2005/2007 includes Cobalt and Ion Redline except 2004- currently out of stock, no plans to make more.
• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• composite pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount, or (preferred, upgrade rear mount to an LNF TURBO mount. LNF of course dont really need a stage 2. We do make custom solid race mounts for the clearly racecar applications but they are stupid for street use, the vibration is unacceptable. a SOLID mount uses a stock housing with a composite material in the center with an alloy sleeve to provide support for the cross bolt. I wont tell you what the material is, but it is NOT delrin. Early race cars used a big chunk of alloy as a center plug. That was expensive to make and a pita to weld in to the mount.
Over the past 9 years, we have made four types of rotated mounts.
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. T
1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.
The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle output to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors (OTT and TTR) copied my mounts. Some other vendors produce “rotated “ mounts that in fact are stock orientation, not rotated at all.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.
I also know a lot more about these mounts than most folks do. Its easy, I drive the delta platform and work on the platform every day servicing customer cars, and working on race cars and my own car.
Please understand that the rotated mount concept exploits the soft driver side torque axis mount, without repositioning it, but the best installs reposition both the drivers and the passenger side mount as the shoulder bolts that secure these mounts have large holes in the mount that permits relocation.
Also note that the automatic transmission Delta's do not need this type of rotation, the car was designed for the automatic, and the manual transmissions happen to be about 15 mm out of axle alignment by comparison. I have been working for over a year on a firmer automatic trans mount system; no need to rotate them, but may need to raise the motor for extreme slammed lowering spring set ups. Not done yet, and I am not sure when I will be able to devote more time to it. For automatic cars that are slammed, Randy on here has done the best job, and just drives very carefully.
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