for those with aftermarket clutches and stock flywheels..
#1
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for those with aftermarket clutches and stock flywheels..
ive been hearing if you keep the stock flywheel with an upgraded clutch, the flywheel has to be resurfaced, what exactly does that mean in terms of the flywheel, also when getting a lighter flywheel i understand its less rotating mass but why is it apparently a bitch to drive in traffic, ive searched and found minimal respones to these concerns, thanks to everyone in advance.
#2
dependswhat kind of clutch u go to.. if u go with a spec clutch and get a springless clutch u have to rev the crap outta your motor cause there is no play in the clutch... its grab and go... so in traffic its a pain lol but as for resurfacing the pressure plate thats always a good idea no matter what kind of clutch u put in.. u dont want the clutch to wear prematurly or have a wear pattern that can cause problems.... and yes alumanum flywheels weight about 10-13 pounds where as ur stock is about 40 so u save on weight
#3
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how would you resurface though, what does it mean in respect to the flywheels/pressure plate, looking at a fx300 clutchmasters clutch and fidanza flywheel.
#5
and to be honest with u im not sure if these flywheels are 2 piece or one... some have a bolt on pressure plate what the others are 1 piece... if u get a new flywheel that comes with the plate then u wont need to resurface.... i work for a gm dealership and havnt seen any problems yet in regards to trans work so i havnt seen what they use yet
#6
First off, if you are buying a new flywheel at the time you are putting in the clutch, there is no need to resurface it. The recommendation to resurface pertains to a flywheel that has been used with one disc and a different disc is being installed. With regard to an aluminum flywheel, I have a 06 SS/SC and am getting ready to put my stock flywheel back in it, although I am going to keep my fx300 disc and pressure plate. Peg's fastest SS comments about 2 piece vs one piece flywheels. With the aluminum flywheels, all that I have seen are 2 piece and what that means is that the friction surface is high carbon steel and the rest of the flywheel is aluminum (except the ring gear). Otherwise, the friction surface would wear out extremely fast. As far as weight goes, my stock flywheel weighs 17 pounds and my aluminum weighs 7 pounds. If you want an aluminum, I will give you a good deal on a clutchmasters aluminum flywheel with about 5,000 miles on it. I am taking it out because I don't like the driveability with it.
#7
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see, i want driveability, im willing to give up a faster reving engine for stock drievability, so when im ready for a clutch i wanna make sure everything is accounted for when it comes to servicing the stock flywheel.
#8
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Originally Posted by soccer1061287
my stock flywheel weighs 17 pounds and my aluminum weighs 7 pounds. If you want an aluminum, I will give you a good deal on a clutchmasters aluminum flywheel with about 5,000 miles on it. I am taking it out because I don't like the driveability with it.
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Originally Posted by soccer1061287
The engine revs up noticably quicker, particularly in first gear. Shift efforts increased because engine does not wind down as quickly.
#14
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player, can mev resurface the flywheel and pressure plate, and by shift efforts i think he means the rpms drop drasticly therefore yer always forcing yerself to shift faster....i could be wrong but it seems like a pain in the ass for a daily driver.
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Originally Posted by distillion
i think he means the rpms drop drasticly therefore yer always forcing yerself to shift faster....i could be wrong but it seems like a pain in the ass for a daily driver.
I'm pretty sure he can machine them, but I'll ask when I talk to him today
#17
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I have a fidanza aluminum flywheel on my jetta with a stage 2 spec clutch and it makes driving a little bit tougher than normal. Since the flywheel is only 7 pounds instead of the stock 18, it has a lot less rolling mass, so higher revs are needed to keep the engine from stalling every time you're starting in first gear mainly.
I'm sure the lightened flywheel would cause extra hassle for a daily driving cobalt ss, i've already got a stage 3+ spec and have a tough enough time engaging the clutch well to keep the car from jerking. Not to mention i've heard lightened flywheels will cause extra oscillation in the belts which may cause more wear on the engine.
I suggest getting a lightened flywheel if you are going to autocross a lot, they are great for quick and high revs and constant shifting. My jetta went from vroom! to woopa!.
I'm sure the lightened flywheel would cause extra hassle for a daily driving cobalt ss, i've already got a stage 3+ spec and have a tough enough time engaging the clutch well to keep the car from jerking. Not to mention i've heard lightened flywheels will cause extra oscillation in the belts which may cause more wear on the engine.
I suggest getting a lightened flywheel if you are going to autocross a lot, they are great for quick and high revs and constant shifting. My jetta went from vroom! to woopa!.
#18
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im not into autocross, i drive my car everyday, and in the winter, i dont drag all the time either, i just want a stronger clutch that can hold the power i have and the power i will have, now with my daily driver and non autocrossing cobalt i guess ill just keep the stock flywheel and have it resurfaced, thanks for all the info.
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