zzp vs ottp mounts
08-06-2011, 12:15 PM
#26
I understand that. I'm just saying that its nothing special. The Powell mounts work perfectly fine on a lowered car. Pretty much everyone I know that is running them, is dropped. Some considerably more than others.
And when you installed the Powell mounts, did you properly loosen the other mounts and follow his install procedure? Or did you just put them on and go? Almost everyone that I've heard of having troubles with Powell mounts, didn't follow the install procedure on them properly.
And when you installed the Powell mounts, did you properly loosen the other mounts and follow his install procedure? Or did you just put them on and go? Almost everyone that I've heard of having troubles with Powell mounts, didn't follow the install procedure on them properly.
08-06-2011, 01:32 PM
#27
This is vendor fights at it's finest. Honestly, and please hear me out..
If the part had no name attached to them, I think this would not be an argument. Knowing that a part comes from a certain company, with a certain name attached it, having heard (or knowing first-hand) background on said company (good or bad) is what makes people's decision when it comes to topics like this. Not in all cases 100% of the time, but enough of the time, I think anyway.
There is no need to try and prove which works better. If it works for your application then great. If it doesn't work for your application, there is no need to say it is a bad/shitty part, because every single cobalt on here is a different application. They are all great parts, regardless of the company name attached to it, and they have all been proven to work, time and time again.
08-06-2011, 01:49 PM
#28
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This is vendor fights at it's finest. Honestly, and please hear me out..
If the part had no name attached to them, I think this would not be an argument. Knowing that a part comes from a certain company, with a certain name attached it, having heard (or knowing first-hand) background on said company (good or bad) is what makes people's decision when it comes to topics like this. Not in all cases 100% of the time, but enough of the time, I think anyway.
There is no need to try and prove which works better. If it works for your application then great. If it doesn't work for your application, there is no need to say it is a bad/shitty part, because every single cobalt on here is a different application. They are all great parts, regardless of the company name attached to it, and they have all been proven to work, time and time again.
But I like your analogy, lets say all the mounts were offered by Powell, which would you choose?
08-06-2011, 01:51 PM
#29
I understand that. I'm just saying that its nothing special. The Powell mounts work perfectly fine on a lowered car. Pretty much everyone I know that is running them, is dropped. Some considerably more than others.
And when you installed the Powell mounts, did you properly loosen the other mounts and follow his install procedure? Or did you just put them on and go? Almost everyone that I've heard of having troubles with Powell mounts, didn't follow the install procedure on them properly.
And when you installed the Powell mounts, did you properly loosen the other mounts and follow his install procedure? Or did you just put them on and go? Almost everyone that I've heard of having troubles with Powell mounts, didn't follow the install procedure on them properly.
Last edited by zrated89; 08-06-2011 at 01:57 PM.
08-07-2011, 10:46 AM
#34
yea man in fact i tried it multiple times. Working in a shop at first i did the install on the lift. followed all his directions still had issues (only at the strip though) then i figured id do it on ramps with the car loaded and repeated the procedure of loosening the mounts, still had issues. Like i said on the street they completely eliminated wheel hop, but at the track i had issues. I couldnt even do a burn out to heat my tires without hopping more violently than with stock tranny mounts. I checked my cab's and tried various tire combos to see if it helped to no avail. I bought a set of tc mounts off a guy on here, almost no wheel hop on the street, no vibes, and really smooth. Of course i know the real test will be when i make it back to the strip this season with the slicks, but im thinking the sidewall of my slicks and the drag bags ill be running should ease the hop. Powells are quality mounts, but i always wondered if being lowered had been taken into consideration for the angle, and to my knowledge he never said so. With that being said if ZZP was able to get the correct angle and take into consideration a car being lowered vs stock height, i do believe it would help. ( just posting my personal experience with them)
what is an issue is what you described exactly. With DR or even street tires, hop at the strip is stillthere with my rotated mounts. I hate that hop at the strip, it is not as vioilent as before; but the only thing I can suggest is launching to avoid hop ( 2200 rpm on an sc car) and that is not easy to do and still have a less than 2.0 60 ft. You have to get less than 2.0 60 ft if youwant a good 1320 time.
There are answers. The drivers side mount should be changed ( expensive to prototype) and see of that can help. ZZP lock the mounts up solid in their race cars, as do we in our road race cars, with alloy bushings but the vibes are stooopid.
Hope this helps. PS I do have a new mount coming out for a lot less money, and I could do the drivers side in similar fashion. It all depends if I want to tie up shop time making a few sets for trial, and put off other regular jobs. Tough call, especially after all that work creepy peeps go copy the stuff.
08-07-2011, 10:52 AM
#35
Oh and one more thing. USMC is all over this thread with good info, but at the drag strip, as at the road race track, car set up and tire pressure is critical to performance. On the drag strip, lowering the tire pressure to change the effective spring rate of the tire and allow the sidewall to flex is very important and affects power hop.
At the end of the day if you totally eliminate hop and get a perfect hook at the drag strip, with a stunning reaction time and great launch, the main shaft of the transmission will go out the front bell housing...
At the end of the day if you totally eliminate hop and get a perfect hook at the drag strip, with a stunning reaction time and great launch, the main shaft of the transmission will go out the front bell housing...
08-07-2011, 04:00 PM
#40
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if you think thats the case then do some research on a cv joint. the angle of the driveshaft from a stock ride height car and a lowered car WILL be different. anyone that says other wise is full of it. I had powells stage two mounts, vibes were harsh, not unbearable, and had bad hop on the strip. On the street i had no hop. But seem as how half of this site is into roll racing they wouldnt experience this. i upgraded to a pair of the LNF mounts and they are awesome ive had no issues with them
hmm.. I'm wonderin where I should go from mine then
08-07-2011, 08:41 PM
#43
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i don't understand how TOO much tire pressure will make u hop. If you have less tire pressure you get more grip. More tire pressure will give u less grip but more comfort
08-07-2011, 09:05 PM
#45
high tire pressure makes the tire sidewall stiffer therefore the tire spring rate increases , and the tire contact patch changes, therefore the hop increases.
grip is not simply a function of pressure. often higher pressure reduces grip, and lower pressure increases it but its not as simple as that. also where did the term "wrinkle walls" come from?
grip is not simply a function of pressure. often higher pressure reduces grip, and lower pressure increases it but its not as simple as that. also where did the term "wrinkle walls" come from?
08-07-2011, 09:05 PM
#46
Think of a Basketball. When is it easier to bounce? When its full of air? Or when its low on air?
Drop your tires to 20psi and they aren't going to bounce nearly as easily, if at all. When I was on stock mounts, that's how I would stop wheel hop... dropping the tire pressure. I do the same thing with my GTI. My first time down the track with the VW was on 35psi. Wheel hopped like a royal beotch. Dropped the pressure to 20psi and they gripped like the dickens.
Obviously, I don't recommend driving around on 20psi of air on Street Tires. Track use only.
Drop your tires to 20psi and they aren't going to bounce nearly as easily, if at all. When I was on stock mounts, that's how I would stop wheel hop... dropping the tire pressure. I do the same thing with my GTI. My first time down the track with the VW was on 35psi. Wheel hopped like a royal beotch. Dropped the pressure to 20psi and they gripped like the dickens.
Obviously, I don't recommend driving around on 20psi of air on Street Tires. Track use only.
08-07-2011, 11:22 PM
#49
nah i was on street tires at 18psi cut a 2.0 flat almost a 1.9 60' and squeaked out a 13.1 @ 107 on the m62 no meth. I get what your saying and have tried alot of things. The one thing im going to do different this time around is have a set of slicks running low pressure to help absorb the hop. and at the time i was running my potenza RE11's which is my road race tire and im not gonna lie they have re enforced sidewalls for cornering so im sure that didnt help matters. but that run was done prior to my stage two mounts. I was stoked and went back with meth, the mounts and a few minor things looking to obtain my goal of a 12 sec pass on street tires and stock blower, but actually hopped worse. Im really consistant running the 1320 and my 60's, maybe your mounts like a different approach as to where they like being launched at. I generally leave at 1800- 2000rpms and slip the clutch while feathering the gas for tracshuns. i duno. Like i said though on the street i had no hop at all. Maybe i should try them after i install my bags in the rear slicks and a few other tricks i have in mind to run a mid to low 12 on my new tvs setup