1 Loud Cobalt
1 Loud Cobalt<140.9db
Finally got all my stuff to fit in the trunk. Updated. i just got back from our local car show at nw audio and i hit 140.9 db on all sealed boxes. this is my first time, is that good for a sealed box...








Last edited by elite_Cyborg; Jul 27, 2008 at 08:24 PM.
but remember guys the essentials can still fit in the back seat
porno mags, porno movies, big black ******, a game cube, beer, you know the essentials...
o btw, i wouldnt be suprised if your stock speakers (thats what they look like that are) have holes in them eventually because of the l7s pounding the **** outta the paper
porno mags, porno movies, big black ******, a game cube, beer, you know the essentials...
o btw, i wouldnt be suprised if your stock speakers (thats what they look like that are) have holes in them eventually because of the l7s pounding the **** outta the paper
unless he has an amp pushing aftermarket speakers in the doors he probably wont be able to hear them anyways lol
woah... looks like you put alot of effort into it but just went down the wrong path. Let me give u a little info. In a confined space like the cabin of a car you want all your subs to be not only the same (size type ect) but also on the same plane. Best thing to do at this point is sell 2 of those subs get 2 in a nice big ported box and have them firing back.
First off I'll start with saying thats a hell of a good effort you put in there, I know just trying arrange the placement alone is nerve racking, if this is your first than I'm sure we will see good things from you in the future
Now that being said let me give you some advice, I agree with emp, loose two get a ported box and use the cash you make from selling the two subs and amp to do 2 things, first dynamat, or some sound deadner, you gunna need it, 2 and I can't believe no one else picked up on this, look at those RCA's your using, they look like they came from a bargain bin some where. Listen wires or wiring is the last place you want to go cheap on, I'm looking at your pics and I see some nice 4 guage power running to the 2500.1, the speaker wires are a little small but this is a minor thing, but the RCA's are what carry the signal fron the HU to the amp, if you use shitty wires and the amp does not get the full signal then you can never get the quality your looking for ( and paid for) out of your system, go spend the money, get some Monster or Stinger RCA's or at least something sheilded.
Other than that it looks like it bumps, I bet you bump a bit better with the seats down though, give the air those subs are pushing around some place to go
Now that being said let me give you some advice, I agree with emp, loose two get a ported box and use the cash you make from selling the two subs and amp to do 2 things, first dynamat, or some sound deadner, you gunna need it, 2 and I can't believe no one else picked up on this, look at those RCA's your using, they look like they came from a bargain bin some where. Listen wires or wiring is the last place you want to go cheap on, I'm looking at your pics and I see some nice 4 guage power running to the 2500.1, the speaker wires are a little small but this is a minor thing, but the RCA's are what carry the signal fron the HU to the amp, if you use shitty wires and the amp does not get the full signal then you can never get the quality your looking for ( and paid for) out of your system, go spend the money, get some Monster or Stinger RCA's or at least something sheilded.
Other than that it looks like it bumps, I bet you bump a bit better with the seats down though, give the air those subs are pushing around some place to go
Sry to undercut ya spun but theres no way to get half of a signal from RCAs. Better RCAs will normally last longer, sound better due to noise rejection and overall are better. I recommend getting them because now that i look at those rcas they are about a step away from the worst you can get
No problem
I have seen a set of cheap RCA's like that actually catch on fire, or at least melt and give a good smoke show because they just couldn't handle the power going through it (it was only cheap deck running 2volts) it started from about 6" before the amp and ran about 2 1/2 feet before we clued in and snuffed it out (the smell was a dead give away)
Anyway what I'm getting at is this all happenned within 3 mins of turning on the system for the first time those RCA's couldn't have been giving a proper signal, so I guess what I'm saying is by gull signal I was not talking about power, more about quality. You have to be picking up some kind of interference if you realize it or not from the power lines.
BTW- I see in one of the pics that your power or ground is right in front of the sub, move it away from the sub, it will vibrate against the sub ruin one if not both the sub and the line. Dont want to wear a hole in either of them, moreso if its a power wire.
I have seen a set of cheap RCA's like that actually catch on fire, or at least melt and give a good smoke show because they just couldn't handle the power going through it (it was only cheap deck running 2volts) it started from about 6" before the amp and ran about 2 1/2 feet before we clued in and snuffed it out (the smell was a dead give away)
Anyway what I'm getting at is this all happenned within 3 mins of turning on the system for the first time those RCA's couldn't have been giving a proper signal, so I guess what I'm saying is by gull signal I was not talking about power, more about quality. You have to be picking up some kind of interference if you realize it or not from the power lines.
BTW- I see in one of the pics that your power or ground is right in front of the sub, move it away from the sub, it will vibrate against the sub ruin one if not both the sub and the line. Dont want to wear a hole in either of them, moreso if its a power wire.
that is the one of the dumbest set ups i have ever seen ...dont get me wrong the l7s are amazing and same with the kicker amp ...but why the hell would put in 2 lower end subs to cancle out any bass those l7 would make ...your system would be louder if u just had the l7's powered
on what meter?
numbers really dont matter unless u are on the same playing field. A system that hits 150db on a termlab at noon in AZ at 109 degrees out is going to actually be louder then a system that hits 155db on an audiocontrol in the morning in Wisconsin at 65 degrees out.
Dont even bring all ur radioshack or other random "meters" out
numbers really dont matter unless u are on the same playing field. A system that hits 150db on a termlab at noon in AZ at 109 degrees out is going to actually be louder then a system that hits 155db on an audiocontrol in the morning in Wisconsin at 65 degrees out.
Dont even bring all ur radioshack or other random "meters" out
Does it really hit 109 degrees in AZ, noon or any other time?
Damn thats not natural, thats damn hot!
I hope you guys down there don't put Armor All or anything like that on your dash.
What about a Walmart meter at 80 degrees around 2 pm on Tuesday in Sarasota, how would it fair against the competition? (joking)
That means those meters just measure air preasure, or something along those lines right, in order for temp, humidity, ect to make such a difference
Damn thats not natural, thats damn hot!
I hope you guys down there don't put Armor All or anything like that on your dash.
What about a Walmart meter at 80 degrees around 2 pm on Tuesday in Sarasota, how would it fair against the competition? (joking)
That means those meters just measure air preasure, or something along those lines right, in order for temp, humidity, ect to make such a difference
140 is pretty disappointing honestly ,but the common consensus people seem to have is more subs are louder. Now if you did a 140 at like 28Hz or something really low that'd be a little more impressive. But i didn't see anywhere you said what note that was at. I'll make you a box that will do over 140 with a single 8", tuned somewhere around 36 to 40 Hz where it's still acceptably musical and not just about SPL.
from an installation standpoint ill give you an A for effort, and a D- for final result
I do this everyday and run a successful business, and with what you have you are breaking so many "rules" of 12v I cannot honestly pick a point to start
1. amps mounted on boxes : big NO NO ... the vibrations from your subs will damage the circuits inside the amp
2. the rcas : seriously, what is that, fisher price my first amp install kit? Upgrade those and you signal will be 100 times more stable and the end result will be much much better
3. amp/sub combos : when running a DB car, it is key to have as much matched equipment as possible IE. all the same size/brand woofers and or amps. This way you can tune everything to match
having different amps/woofers you are actually causing the sound waves caused by the setup to battle each other ... easiest way to explain ... take two buckets of water, one larger than the other ... and dump them directly at each other ... looks like monkeys banging a coconut doesnt it?
4. sound deadening : heck homie just doing that in your trunk area alone will gain you around 3DB ...
5. 140.9 db ... not bad .... but horrible for the setup your running

this is a customers car ... that hit 139.8 .. half the power and less than half the woofer space (ohh and the boxes are .5 cubic ft less than suggested ... but it was a custom job, what can you do)
but again A for effort, I mean not hostility or disrespect, we all start somewhere .... but your wasteing alot of your time and money when you do things like this, and do them incorrectly
I do this everyday and run a successful business, and with what you have you are breaking so many "rules" of 12v I cannot honestly pick a point to start
1. amps mounted on boxes : big NO NO ... the vibrations from your subs will damage the circuits inside the amp
2. the rcas : seriously, what is that, fisher price my first amp install kit? Upgrade those and you signal will be 100 times more stable and the end result will be much much better
3. amp/sub combos : when running a DB car, it is key to have as much matched equipment as possible IE. all the same size/brand woofers and or amps. This way you can tune everything to match
having different amps/woofers you are actually causing the sound waves caused by the setup to battle each other ... easiest way to explain ... take two buckets of water, one larger than the other ... and dump them directly at each other ... looks like monkeys banging a coconut doesnt it?
4. sound deadening : heck homie just doing that in your trunk area alone will gain you around 3DB ...
5. 140.9 db ... not bad .... but horrible for the setup your running
this is a customers car ... that hit 139.8 .. half the power and less than half the woofer space (ohh and the boxes are .5 cubic ft less than suggested ... but it was a custom job, what can you do)
but again A for effort, I mean not hostility or disrespect, we all start somewhere .... but your wasteing alot of your time and money when you do things like this, and do them incorrectly


