2 12s w/ stock h/u not working help!
2 12s w/ stock h/u not working help!
ok well i installed 2 subs with pioneer amp (temporary till i get a new one). this is the exactly the same stuff i had in my blazer and it work perfectly (but i used an aftermarkter h/u). well i hooked it up using a how to. i want to keep the stock head to i splices the 6x9s and used a rca line converter. all hooked up and im only getting one sub that work, i switched the rca wiress so left->right ect. and the other sub works so it aint the or the subs. i think it's the line convert so i splices the stock sub wires and hooked it like and it just sound awful so i went back to the 6x9s. im not getting as much bass as i did before and i can only get one sub.. i thinking it's the line out converter... and hook theres up differently or any suggestion?!?!?!?!?!
not yet.. i think it's the line converter. but i cant find a different one around here so im going to wait till x-mas to buy a new one. but if you got anything it would help!
more opinions and info wont hurt.. i like to learn
more opinions and info wont hurt.. i like to learn
Last edited by jimmyfoxx; Dec 19, 2007 at 01:03 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Your right. If you switch channels, and the other sub works that means your subs work, but that also means that your amp works too.
I am assuming that both 6x9s work.
If your confident that your wiring job is ok, then that only leaves the converter and your RCA's. You could always just try a set of RCA's from your home stereo to test if you dont have another set.
When you hooked up to the factory sub wires, did both subs work then? Also make sure that you are not out of phase. Example:
I am assuming that both 6x9s work.
If your confident that your wiring job is ok, then that only leaves the converter and your RCA's. You could always just try a set of RCA's from your home stereo to test if you dont have another set.
When you hooked up to the factory sub wires, did both subs work then? Also make sure that you are not out of phase. Example:
i had a line converter installed for like 2 min. until i realized my amp (kicker ZX300) had an output and wires to directly splice into the speaker wire. by this i mean i dont have rca's. sounds confusing cuz im prolly not explaining right but it made my subs hit 10X harder than it did with the rca converter. i dont really like the converters personally. prolly doesnt help much but oh well.
hope you figure it out!
hope you figure it out!
wait what? high level inputs are basiclly speaker wire inputs on an amp either it has them or it doesnt theres no way to add them. a line level convertor is a device that gets a signal from speaker wires and converts it into a low level rca signal
im using 12 gauge wire for power and ground, should i use 10 or do u think or higher? holidays made me broke like second week of january going to buy a new high level output converter hook it up and im going to splice the 6x9s and subs and see which ones sound better.
maybe ground wire is to long? it's grounding where the battery ground to
maybe ground wire is to long? it's grounding where the battery ground to
Last edited by jimmyfoxx; Dec 23, 2007 at 03:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
oh **** no... 12g power wire? thats way way way to small for an amp worth a ****. (then again i dont have a model number so it may be a ghetto amp) also theres so many complicated things to an install that can mess up its really hard to diagnose it over the net. Give me an idea of what all your going to change/rewire and i maybe able to help
oh also look at the damn copper in the wire. just because it says its a certain guage doesnt mean it is. if you have a bad brand of wire then your 12g is probably more like 16g
oh also look at the damn copper in the wire. just because it says its a certain guage doesnt mean it is. if you have a bad brand of wire then your 12g is probably more like 16g
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; Dec 23, 2007 at 04:46 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
so here is the set up;
spliced 6x9s -> rca output converter -> amp
battery->fuse->amp
ground (same as batteries' ground)->amp
accessory lead -> i have a remote power lead which uses a 12+, ground and some that turns on when the car turns on (i used the spliced 6x9) then to the amp. it's supose to get rid of that popping sound and it beats running wired through the cabin.
i have a older pioneer amp with 2 12" kenwoods. it worked great in my last car (blazer) but i also had an aftermarket h/u.
i'm going to try to splice the stock sub wire and by a new high level output converter (one i have now i think is shitty). going to go with better wire for power and ground.
spliced 6x9s -> rca output converter -> amp
battery->fuse->amp
ground (same as batteries' ground)->amp
accessory lead -> i have a remote power lead which uses a 12+, ground and some that turns on when the car turns on (i used the spliced 6x9) then to the amp. it's supose to get rid of that popping sound and it beats running wired through the cabin.
i have a older pioneer amp with 2 12" kenwoods. it worked great in my last car (blazer) but i also had an aftermarket h/u.
i'm going to try to splice the stock sub wire and by a new high level output converter (one i have now i think is shitty). going to go with better wire for power and ground.
Last edited by jimmyfoxx; Dec 24, 2007 at 01:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If your stock setup is anything like mine than you will notice that there are 4 wires running to the sub, the pioneer subs are dual voice coil. There is a good chance you crossed the wires up as stated earlier. Line output converters are really not the way to go but in order for them do a decent job you shouldn't have any speaker hook up to the same lines (can't have your cake and eat it too). That being said I know what it takes to put an aftermarket HU in and I know what I paid for a GMOS LAN-04, so I understand why some people opt to go with the stock HU, Its frustrating at best, (door chimes that can be herd a block away anyone?)
Here is the best advice I can give to you 1) get a good line output conv. stinger makes a good one and phoenix gold will bump up the volts on the line out there not that much money I see them on ebay for under $20 all the time. 2) 12 gauge wire???, I don't even wan't to know the detals of your ground wire, I'm sure it will make me cringe, scrap all the wires, the batt. is in the trunk so you don't have far to go. 4 feet of power wire at the most, an inline fuse ( not the plastic 2 prong type, go glass tube) depending on the draw from the amp, I'm guessing a 50-60 amp fuse should do. 24 inches max for your ground, any more than that and the resistance is too high. And the important part all of it 4 guage or better. Most people overlook the wiring in any system but you can have the biggest most expensive amp/subs combo and if your wires are junk then it will sound like ****.
You have a good base system to work with, but these damn Cobalts seem to fight you every step of the way when your installing a stereo, If your looking for a good ground try the bolts the hold your back seats in, remember to sand any paint away so its a metal contact. good luck
Here is the best advice I can give to you 1) get a good line output conv. stinger makes a good one and phoenix gold will bump up the volts on the line out there not that much money I see them on ebay for under $20 all the time. 2) 12 gauge wire???, I don't even wan't to know the detals of your ground wire, I'm sure it will make me cringe, scrap all the wires, the batt. is in the trunk so you don't have far to go. 4 feet of power wire at the most, an inline fuse ( not the plastic 2 prong type, go glass tube) depending on the draw from the amp, I'm guessing a 50-60 amp fuse should do. 24 inches max for your ground, any more than that and the resistance is too high. And the important part all of it 4 guage or better. Most people overlook the wiring in any system but you can have the biggest most expensive amp/subs combo and if your wires are junk then it will sound like ****.
You have a good base system to work with, but these damn Cobalts seem to fight you every step of the way when your installing a stereo, If your looking for a good ground try the bolts the hold your back seats in, remember to sand any paint away so its a metal contact. good luck
pretty much truth there. I wouldn't change wiring to the sub and honestly to prevent any out of phase issues (in terms of signal) you can splice only one set of speaker wires for convertor.(connect both pos to a single speaker pos and both negto a single speaker neg).... oh ya in audio less resistance is the name of the game. I'm using 8awg (not fake insulation only wire) for my subs speaker wires
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