I've got the bug to play with the audio system. I'm gonna keep the stock HU since, functionally, it's everything I need.

I have a set of Eclipse SC8362 sitting in my garage from a previous car. Not really my first choice for this car, but they'll cost nothing. So those are going in, and I have an old Alpine MRP-450 amp that I'll use to drive a Pioneer TSSW251 in the stock enclosure, and likely disconnect the rear speakers. I'm lazy, so I'll probably send those rear connections to a David Navone LOC, which has an integrated remote trigger, so that's one less thing I have to deal with.

If the Eclipses don't work out (4 ohm, and only 88 Db sensitivity), I'll go with something else. My favorite speakers that I've ever had in a car was an old set of kevlar Focal components, so I may go that route if things don't work out. They're a lot more sensitive, so I don't think the fact that they're 4 ohm matters much.

Where are you guys mounting the crossovers? Is there a convenient place? I normally mount them in the door, but I know it's not great for them.

 

in the door is probably best. 4 ohm will be a big ass difference on the stock amp. going from 30w rms to 15 is going to be a difference

 

WTF. I thought the stocker sent 75W to the front mids, that's why I wasn't worried. You sure?

Well crap.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/chevy/Index.html

270 peak. Great. Maybe I'll get the Infinity References then :-( I guess better to dash my hopes now than later.

 

lol my bad man but ive done it time and time again. putting a 4 ohm speaker on a stock amp that had a 2 ohm doesnt work out. even if the one ur replacing it with is a $400 speaker (yes i've done it)

 

Screw it. Ordering the Infinity References.

 

ahhh isn't that dependent on the amp used in the factory setup?

 

Yes. I'm too lazy to perform a full amp bypass, so I'll continue to run the fronts off the stock amp. The amp for the sub is super easy since the battery is in the trunk, and I don't even need to run a remote trigger with the Navone LOC.

 

yes but in general most factory amplified systems the amplifier isn't much bigger then the traditional aftermarket deck power wise. so cutting the output in half with the impedance difference makes a big difference. in most cases there's 4 ohm speakers so no problem but if its 2 ohm then ur screwed

the easiest fix you can do is solder rcas on to the cobalt harness instead of connecting them to the deck harness and plug them in the deck. this works best with 3 sets of preouts but that would give u the low level output ur looking for

 

I would say that it depends on the sensitivity of the 4ohm speakers, and how much power we're talking about. Higher resistance speakers also tend to be easier for the amp to drive too. I think I could be happy with 25-35 RMS since I don't listen to my music very loudly. However, EmperorJJ ruined my plans when he revealed that the stocker is like 35 watts @ 2 ohms :-P

Hmm, what's that in reference to? Bypassing the amp for a 2 channel amp to drive the fronts? Thanks for the help, btw.

 

right but most "stock" amps aren't very powerful hence the difference. sensitivity does make a difference but it would take a very shitty non efficient speaker, and a big stock amp for a perfect aftermarket one to fill the gap. While stock upgraded speakers aren't awesome the companies who make them aren't completely retarded they are normally decently efficient with a tiny ass magnet for low power handling



using the new hu and stock amp together