What about the 10 feet it travels to the back .
Two jbl 1200.1 120 amp per just for subs witch is over kill car can not even keep up with one even with 2 kinetic power battcaps and factory batt
Interested to now how big of an approvement you see with your upgrade

 

Well before, running around 1000 watts caused the voltage across the battery terminals caused the voltage to drop to 10 volts, so I'm expecting a pretty substantial improvement

 

i cant wait to see what im going to be pulling with my new set up. im using a kicker 800.4 and a kicker 400.2 amp. im going to run it though i digital fuse/distribution block with a voltage meter on it. and a digital capacitor with a voltage meter on it. so hopefully i wont need more power. i might do the big three anyways.

 

I had a voltmeter hooked up to my amp's power wire, and on hard hits, it would drop to below 10 volts, and on continuous hits, it would drop, and stay below 11

 

wow what amp where you running, and how much would the big 3 help that using the stock battery and alt. what size is your alt anyways. i need to check mine.

 

at 10 volts you get about half of amps output not to mention it is a good way to destroy
things subs amps ect.
diablo says he has a 200 amp aftermarket amp he told me the web site i emailed them 2 or three days ago they have not returened a response

 

jl amps are same output 11 to 14.4 only amp i know of that will do this

 

Maybe I missed it but what website did he send you to for a larger alt?
This is a good site for alternators.
Also, high output alternaters is actually just a brand name. Much like dynomat has become synonomis with sound dampening; high output is the common thing to call a larger amperage alternator.

 

Please explain how this is possible. And not "because I heard it is."

 

I think the power supply is internally regulated to provide a constant output, thats the only way it could work like that

 

Welding cable works GREAT for this upgrade, the copper strands are finer and more pure than that of car audio battery cable.

Plus its way cheaper and you can bend it.

 

Well, I've got what I got, and its run already, so thats what I am using

For the engine ground, I am going to run about a 4" wire from the engine side of the motor mount to the chassis side.

I should be getting my Lug terminals tomorrow so hopefully I can finish this mod

 

cobalt25, you dont have to email them, go to their forums and look in the classifieds or look in their store, thats what i did. and mesatrin is right H/O is a brand name, the brand i got was mean green H/O alt, the website is realmofexcursion.com

 

read all the posts before you post

 

just mean h/o as short for high output ohio generaters sell H/O and they want about 600 dollers for them with only a one year warranty but it bolts up

 

thats a lil expensive they usually only cost 400

 

Way to expensive thats why i don't have one and all they do is take your alt case and rebuild it.
I've been told that trying to pack all that juice in such a small case = exessive heat =
premuture death maybe if it had a two a year warranty i might bite .

 

go to jl's web site and see i don't know for sure but just like someone else said already internaly regulated

 

just buy a whole new alt it will pay off in the long run and last longer in my jeep i have a 200 amp alt also mean green its been in there for 10 years i think and its still going strong

 

Dang were did you have to go to get your terminals.
Better off not being around me when my system is down so my wife says.
Some times i feel sorry for my audio dealer espeacialy when something like my remote for my bass proccessor goes to **** on me and it takes him two weeks to replace it
I think he realized one more day would have came to a phisical alteration and some jail time for me so no stereo for more than a day = watch out

 

Did they sell you your bracket as well for your balt did they charge you more for it if not do you have a template .
what is the name and ## for your alt for your balt

 

That's interesting. It sounds like they've created a perpetual motion machine

If it takes x amount of volts and y amount of amps to make z amount of watts, I don't know how they can get the same z without a high enough x and y, which is obviously decreased when battery voltage drops.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_a...php?page_id=46

 

I bought them from an industrial supply company - McMaster-Carr

 

im not sure what the numbers are off the top of my head but i can look some time and tell you, but no it didnt come with any brackets it was used off of someones old cavy, and all i did was use a 1/4 inch piece of steel to make them

 

In most cases you don’t need a new alternator if your lights are only dimming when you hit low notes. You can get away with adding a second battery with a relay that allows both batteries to coexist and still be charged by the alternator. This will give you the ability to store a lot more energy to use when you hit a low note. It will also help when you are at stop lights and your alternator is not powerful enough because the engine is idling.