tuned08ss

So I just got a shop to put on my new neutral/clutch safety switch. Picked up the car and get to about 15 mph and the ESC turns on and the car bucks from what feels like abs kicking in. Now my current fix is to always turn ESC off but I don't like that I can never have traction control on anymore. Also when I picked up the switch from the dealer they said it may need to be reprogrammed but idk(can someone vouch for this). Its not showing any codes on the whole car scan.I'm just confused at this point and don't want to lose my HP tune by taking it to the dealer for a reprogram. Has anyone else had an issue like this after swapping there neutral safety switch? Car is a 2008 Cobalt SS lnf.

Thanks CSS.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Not your neutral safety switch, but probably a wheel speed sensor that's going bad. That will cause the issues you're having.

Psykostevo

Yup. Wheel speed variations causing stability control to intervene.

tuned08ss

Ok let me be more clear. I replaced the switch because I was having an intermittent starting issue. When I picked the car up from the shop the ESC problem started. I was told by 2 mechanics that some cars need to be reprogrammed to accept the new neutral safety switch. But you guys are telling me this is false right? Just seems weird I had no problems with speed sensors before getting a new switch.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

There's no programming for a NSS, it's just a contact that closes when you're pushing the clutch down. It either works or it doesn't.

It also doesn't do anything useful once you're driving, it has some interactions but if it's faulty it will only affect starting the car. Have someone with proper diagnostic tools pull BCM codes, i'd bet there's a wheel speed fault code. Or just watch the wheel speed outputs, one will be erratic. Replace that sensor.

tuned08ss

There are no bcm codes but we never checked the speed ratings for each sensor. That may be the issue so I'll have that looked at.

On the other hand, my mechanic said he had to move the steering rack to get to the nss. Would anything up in that area cause the ESC active problem? It just puzzles me that I took it in with just a starting problem and my first drive the ESC is on. It leads me to think the mechanic may have not reassembled something correctly.

Thanks guys for your answers. So far you've been very helpful.

tuned08ss

Bump

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Get those speed sensors looked at.

It worries me that he had to move the rack, there's no reason for that, the switch is in the car? The reverse light switch on the trans won't stop the car from starting.

Maybe you need a better tech to check the car.

slowbaltkoller

Any idea if it was fixed within the last month i was in a car accident today and its doing the same thing anytime i go over 15mph the esc kicks on and it sounds like my abs is trying to force the car to stop while im moving

Kobraa

iTrader: (1)

Weird question: Any chance either of you didnt get the intermediate shafts put back on the steering correctly? I had a car a customer put a rack in himself that was doing the same thing and what happens is you get the steering shaft put back on 360 degrees wrong in one direction and the car thinks your turning either left or right and when you get going about 10-15 mph and its lateral accelerometer sees your going straight so it will reduce power and start pulsing abs circuit to straighten it out. Id be interested to know what your steering wheel position sensor reads with the wheel pointed straight forward.

Kobraa

iTrader: (1)

Basically your car is going straight, but based off the steering wheel position sensor it believes you are turning, yet its lateral accelerometer tells it your going straight and it assumes an understeer condition and is trying to correct it.

Kobraa

iTrader: (1)

Let me know if you understand what im trying to say. i can be more clear if needed lol

tuned08ss

I get what you're saying. I haven't looked into my problem. My ESC is just always off now. If I turn it on though the problem is still there. However, what you're saying makes a lot of sense considering mine did this after having the shaft moved.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Good point, didn't consider that.

For those with this problem, if someone looks at the steering angle value with a good scanner, it should be very close to zero when the wheels are straight ahead. If it's off, then there's your issue. Do the centering procedure for the wheel and re-calibrate the steering angle sensor and see if that cures your issues.

tuned08ss

Just an update on this. The bcm code is for steering angle sensor. And I'm having a knock come from my steering mentioned in my other thread. I'm leaning towards the problem being my old mechanic moved the steering column and screwed something up. I think I need a new rack now but I'm not sure.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Steering angle sensor is in the column, there's several of them.

You probably need a new power steering motor assembly, they get wear in the gears and cause a knocking in them, and that's where the sensors are. There's an upper and lower sensor that it uses to detect how you are turning the wheel.

tuned08ss

If I post a video can you tell if it's the PS motor?

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Not really, it just sounds like a clunk...

Best way to tell is to put your hand on it and turn the wheel back and forth with the car off. If you feel the knocking harder in the steering assist unit, replace it. If it feels further down the steering column, it can be the intermediate shaft worn out.