TKolb325; Hey bro, I could have missed a post in there; I am too tired, long night; Anywho I noticed you said that a green light illuminates from your amp. I could be wrong but I dare to say you have power; your capis like an extra battery thatr stores energy for the those hard hitting notes that draw excess power. I grew up with parents that believed I sould buy my own things so I never owned any type of device to check volt's or watts; I learned to do things other ways. If you or a friend own a media player, assuming it has an audio out, and you or someone you know has a cable for interface assuming that the amp has RCA inputs... I would conect the amp to the media player/ stereo/ etcetera, turn on your car turn on your car stereo with the volume at 0 (this is to activate the remote, which will activate your amp) load an audio file on the media player, play it see if your amp responds: If it does them I would check my wires from the RCA jacks on the amp to the car stereo. Look for corrosion or any obvious signs of wire damage,IE; wire showing through the insulation or severe stretching/ creasinging (signs of possible inner damage), make sure it's connection to stereo is clean no foreign metal on metal contact.

I could type on but it would be easier if you PM me and we can correspond by the internet. I have installed and serviced my own systems since I was 16 and now I am 33. I am not an pro but I have learned a thing or two. I am not sure what point of life your at but if I can help let me know I will be glad to. P.S. I am not online all day work/ wife / midgets to attend to. But if you PM me I will be glad to help as soon as I can; I look 2-3 times a day.

 

Has anyone ohmed out the sub? Grab a multimeter and ohm out the sub. Be sure to disconnect the speaker from the system before you ohm it out or you'll get an inacurate reading. If the grounds are on painted surfaces like you say unbolt them and sand that paint off ASAP. Bad grounds will burn up amps, and prevent them from turning on. This sounds like a grounding issue. But just ohm the sub out real quick to remove that from the equation. I am also assuming the sub is matched to the amp, confirm the ohm rating of the sub to what the amplifier is designed for.

 

Just to let ya know, I didn't put this in. The guy I bought it from installed it. I agree that you shouldn't mess with things that you don't know about, hence the reason I took it to a friend, and asked others about it.

But lets move on with the topic instead of stating the obvious...

 

ok im just lookign at the amp and power side right now because im pretty sure its an 801s amp and since ive ran one in my car for oh 2.5 years i might be a little more helpful

but i really dont care who installed it or what not im just trying to help get this fixed as quickly and cheaply as possible... now ive never seen a cap with a remote input so im curious to why thats even there bc a cap shouldnt need a remote (only thing i could think of is something for the digital display but whatever) so i would just run the remote directly to the amp and if the display doesnt come on anymore run a seperate wire for the cap (what brand cap is this anyway)

in terms of ground wire ya it might have ran fine like that for a while but ultimatly it will help the amp if its bare metal so spend the extra minute taking off the paint

Just to be sure were on the right page here (bc ive had experiance with rf amps and i know a bit on which amp has what ect)
does the amp look something like this?

 

most caps do have a remote power supply, but i do believe only if they have a lcd or led's

 

A seperate wire from the head unit is unnecessary. If you run the remote to the cap then on to the amp it's essentially the same as running a seperate wire.

 

lol well i know for a fact that my digital cap from rockford doesnt need a remote and since i gave the digital volt meter part away i know it works on other brand caps fine (did a direct install on a stinger cap) but even assuming its ghetto technology using a wire each product should have its own remote anyway

 

And how is running two seperate wires better/different then running one? I have two amps, the remote wire runs into the terminal for the first, and another wire coming out that jumps to the other amp. You're telling me I should have two seperate wires coming from the head unit? Either way the source is still the same and wiring them like that in parallel requires less splicing of wires.

 

your absolutely right it is the same until a componant messes up... for all i know the cap is bad and power cant get to the amp at all... or the connector for the remote wire could be messed up so signal cant get to the amp.

Now the best thing to do in a situation like yours is to take out the easy things first but to be completely honest witout someone looking at your setup no one will be able to tell you 100% of what is wrong.

Now if you think its the sub liek you were hinting then go head and take it out of the box and get a short run of wire... unplug the power and ground and put the short run on and connect to a 9v battery if it moves the sub works.

 

If it's wired like I said it doesn't matter if that component doesn't work, since it's essentially the same wire. Wire from head unit goes into terminal, screwed down with wire that goes to second amp. If the first component is broken it doesn't matter.

 

BTW...

801s is the model. Exactly like the picture emperor posted..

 

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