Sadly no pictures yet. I have tomorrow off so im going to get tons of pictures and post them and finish my pods. If I can bust ass tomorrow I should have eveything ready to install so I can have music again... I hate working so much I dont have time for my own stuff.

 

but why the 9886.. i guess the pxa-h100 makes up for what the 9886 lacks but you know... the eclipse cd7200 is a hot deck for sq..

 

Im going to go with the W505 when I have the cash. I picked up the 9886 right when it came out new for only $180... thank you bby. I'd love to do the F1 but im not a balla.


Madlion I'll dynamat your ride fo sho, just its gonna be hard when you're in Virginia and im in Texas.

 

i know that a flat frequency curve is good, but what does it represent/show about the sub

 

This is sweet wish i had the ***** to rip everything out of my car...

 

less eq tuning with a flat curve. more sq. less boomy. more musical.

his car should be quieter then a lexus ls430 with all that deadening

the w505 is sooo hot.. have you had experience with the power pack add on thingy that makes the output 45x4 rms?

 

^^ No haven’t messed with it yet it’s a cool idea if you don’t want a larger 4 channel or if you don’t have the space to put an amp. I’m running active so I wanted more power than 45w. Yea my car is really quiet now, when I’m just idling I’ve had my friends ask if my car is on. On the highway I still get some wind noise but it’s not bad. I've thought about replacing my door seals but mine are still in good condition so Idk what to do.

 

Those F1's multi media unit has built in time allignment... very nice.
Then you place your tweeters where they best suit the build rather then having to keep them in range of the mids. Time allignment does the rest.
My buddy has this in an Audio Control EQ, his front end sounded so much better after he put it in, although he didn't have to pay $7000-10000 for it

BTW- The wieght of my box even though it is half fiberglass, sags the ass end of my car down about 1/2 inch. Since the sportlines do an even drop rather than giving it an aggressive stance and dropping the front moren this caused the car to be higher in the front. Coilovers is the only way to fix it. Remember that if you lower the car, find a spring with a bigger drop in the front. H&R springs will do this

 

h & r sport springs are nice imo.
45 watts x4 would be nice if you only had a 500 watt sub driver and wanted to minimize weight. but they should have bumped it to atleast 75 so you can run some better components. does the power pack fit behind the dash??

 

i thought it was a lower in the back for h&r springs?... although my h&r sports looked a little higher in the back before i put all the crap in the back

 

It should its only 6” x 2” x 1-1/8” so that should hide easy.



Yea I need to remember to compensate for all the extra weight in the back end when I lower it... eventually.






Ok so I know its been awhile but here is some of the work I've gotten done. Forgot to take some pictures at certain stages, but F it.

Almost got the door pods completely done. Put the second layer of fiberglass on, sealed them up with some fleece and resin on the back, sanded them down, cut out the speaker hole, and more sanding. Got them fit in the doors, that was the biggest bitch ever. They didn’t quite fit right (too big) so I had to do more sanding and cut the panels more, but got them mounted. Prepped the door for the body filler so I can get that done after work tomorrow.




The box is all done except for cosmetics, like everything else. This box is 3.35 cubes tuned to 22hrz with a kerfed port. That kerf was lots of fun we broke 2 boards trying to get the curve correct. Sense everything in my whole car/trunk is going to be black suede we decided to do the port high gloss white so it stands out and that it dose.



I’m getting there I hope I can get this project finished soon at lest getting audio back in the ride, don’t have too much more to do. The cosmetics (suede and beauty panels) can be done later but still needs to be done.

 

could just be the pics but the right side of the door panel looks different then the right side. the passenger side bezel speaker bezel looks higher??

 

^^^ its the pictures I was standing further away on the driver side

 

nice man nice!

 

^^ Thanks man. They are being a bitch, still just slightly too big. I’m doing to shave the metal near the pod thats around my door seal so they fit right. Got most of the body filler on today ran out of time to finish. I’m going to toss my box in tomorrow so I can take measurements for the false floor

 

huh? the inside metal?

 

lol yea the metal under the weather stripping so it sits lower that way the pods will fit.

 

stinky or emperor do you guys know of a place/vendor to purchase foam blocks for shaping a fiberglass enclosure?

 

foam blocks for shaping a fiberglass enclosure?

 

build me one of those boxes!!

the canadian guy from pound that sound has good prices but shipping a box from canada to the US is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

^^ what box? one like mine?

Check out www.thefoamfactory.com thay have well... foam.

 

awesome supplier... the foam will be used to possibly build an enclosure. ive been doing some research and talked to a guy from II who said it was best to do it this way because it saves money and there is less body filler. you basically shape the foam and fiberglass over it. it seems to me that it would be easier to calculate the volume of the box doing it this way, based on how many bricks you use.

 

^^^ That sounds like that would work just remember to put tape or foil down so the glass doesnt stick to the foam. That would be hell getting out.

 

yea a box like yours, i like the flared slot port alot, ill pay!!

 

huh never used that. ive always seen it done with wooden sticks and such to make the fabric into the basic shape your looking for.