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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
amomentsnotice's Avatar
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From: castle rock, co
....help with electronics....

i have 2 gauges getting power from the fuse box in the center console under the radio / HVAC controlls.

i went to install a whistle (basically a car alarm horn) underneath the stock horn and when i went to get power for it i tapped into the same line for my gauges, just cuz it was nearby and easy. i got everything installed good working right and then (i cant remember if i took the key out or not) i lost power to all the gauges and whistle, and in the DIC it said SERVICE AIR BAG.

i wouldve figured i somehow blew the fuse but when i checked it it was all good.
Its to cold to go work on it right now, but i really hope this is a simple fix...

thanks guys...

--edit--
oh and 2 hours later i went to start it just too see what would happen and it wouldnt start. SWEET
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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That wasnt really smart, are you sure you didnt tap a data line going to the PCM or BCM (whereever the gauges are controlled from)?
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 04:36 PM
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I got the same thing on my DIC about a month ago. It was just a loose connection under the steering column. Take it to a dealer and have them check it.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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When tapping your fuse box, you have to know exactly what you are doing. The most common mistake people make is they tap after the stock fuse, which puts a greater load on the fuse and basically makes the in-line fuse of the item you are installing useless. Second, they tap the wrong bus. You have to know if you want constant power, accessory power, or switched power. Using a test light is the easiest way to find which bus does which.

Last edited by Halfcent; Dec 29, 2006 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Halfcent
When tapping your fuse box, you have to know exactly what you are doing. The most common mistake people make is they tap after the stock fuse, which puts a greater load on the fuse and basically makes the in-line fuse of the item you are installing useless. Second, they tap the wrong bus. You have to know if you want constant power, accessory power, or switched power. Using a test light is the easiest way to find which bus does which.
You do want to tap AFTER the stock fuse - so your new circuit is protected by that fuse. There's no such thing as "putting a greater load on the fuse" and it won't "make the in-line fuse you are installing useless" fuses don't care about "load," they're really simple. If their amperage rating is exceeded, they burn up and open the circuit, so something else doesn't burn/melt first.

Last edited by Halfcent; Dec 29, 2006 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:02 PM
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Wow, that is COMPLETELY wrong. Fuses are all about load. Thats what amps are. And you absolutely do want to tap BEFORE the stock fuse, and then use an in-line fuse for the thing you are hooking up. That way the factory original circuit has it normally rated protection, and the new component has it's own separate protection. When you run a new circuit off a bus, you run it directly off the bus with it's own breaker/fuse.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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From: castle rock, co
everything was hooked up the way its supposed to be at the fuse box. What i think really happened was wires crossed somewhere post fuse box and shorted something out.

I completeley disconnected the gauges and unhooked the battery for about 15 minutes then left the gauges off and tried again. same deal.

Originally Posted by cawpin
I got the same thing on my DIC about a month ago. It was just a loose connection under the steering column. Take it to a dealer and have them check it.
i suppose i could try disconnecting and reconnecting everything underneath, but realistically i dont think that would do anything.

god i dont want to have to deal with a dealer. any other ideas?
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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I would take it to the dealer before any more of your electrical system gets screwed up
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 05:51 PM
  #9  
amomentsnotice's Avatar
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From: castle rock, co
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Wow, that is COMPLETELY wrong. Fuses are all about load. Thats what amps are. And you absolutely do want to tap BEFORE the stock fuse, and then use an in-line fuse for the thing you are hooking up. That way the factory original circuit has it normally rated protection, and the new component has it's own separate protection. When you run a new circuit off a bus, you run it directly off the bus with it's own breaker/fuse.
^^ he's right. i just did some digging to find wich fuse was blown, replaced it and i was good. thanks for the help though.
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