....help with electronics....
#1
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....help with electronics....
i have 2 gauges getting power from the fuse box in the center console under the radio / HVAC controlls.
i went to install a whistle (basically a car alarm horn) underneath the stock horn and when i went to get power for it i tapped into the same line for my gauges, just cuz it was nearby and easy. i got everything installed good working right and then (i cant remember if i took the key out or not) i lost power to all the gauges and whistle, and in the DIC it said SERVICE AIR BAG.
i wouldve figured i somehow blew the fuse but when i checked it it was all good.
Its to cold to go work on it right now, but i really hope this is a simple fix...
thanks guys...
--edit--
oh and 2 hours later i went to start it just too see what would happen and it wouldnt start. SWEET
i went to install a whistle (basically a car alarm horn) underneath the stock horn and when i went to get power for it i tapped into the same line for my gauges, just cuz it was nearby and easy. i got everything installed good working right and then (i cant remember if i took the key out or not) i lost power to all the gauges and whistle, and in the DIC it said SERVICE AIR BAG.
i wouldve figured i somehow blew the fuse but when i checked it it was all good.
Its to cold to go work on it right now, but i really hope this is a simple fix...
thanks guys...
--edit--
oh and 2 hours later i went to start it just too see what would happen and it wouldnt start. SWEET
#4
I'm old school
When tapping your fuse box, you have to know exactly what you are doing. The most common mistake people make is they tap after the stock fuse, which puts a greater load on the fuse and basically makes the in-line fuse of the item you are installing useless. Second, they tap the wrong bus. You have to know if you want constant power, accessory power, or switched power. Using a test light is the easiest way to find which bus does which.
Last edited by Halfcent; 12-29-2006 at 10:02 PM.
#5
Senior Member
When tapping your fuse box, you have to know exactly what you are doing. The most common mistake people make is they tap after the stock fuse, which puts a greater load on the fuse and basically makes the in-line fuse of the item you are installing useless. Second, they tap the wrong bus. You have to know if you want constant power, accessory power, or switched power. Using a test light is the easiest way to find which bus does which.
Last edited by Halfcent; 12-29-2006 at 10:02 PM.
#6
I'm old school
Wow, that is COMPLETELY wrong. Fuses are all about load. Thats what amps are. And you absolutely do want to tap BEFORE the stock fuse, and then use an in-line fuse for the thing you are hooking up. That way the factory original circuit has it normally rated protection, and the new component has it's own separate protection. When you run a new circuit off a bus, you run it directly off the bus with it's own breaker/fuse.
#7
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everything was hooked up the way its supposed to be at the fuse box. What i think really happened was wires crossed somewhere post fuse box and shorted something out.
I completeley disconnected the gauges and unhooked the battery for about 15 minutes then left the gauges off and tried again. same deal.
i suppose i could try disconnecting and reconnecting everything underneath, but realistically i dont think that would do anything.
god i dont want to have to deal with a dealer. any other ideas?
I completeley disconnected the gauges and unhooked the battery for about 15 minutes then left the gauges off and tried again. same deal.
god i dont want to have to deal with a dealer. any other ideas?
#9
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Wow, that is COMPLETELY wrong. Fuses are all about load. Thats what amps are. And you absolutely do want to tap BEFORE the stock fuse, and then use an in-line fuse for the thing you are hooking up. That way the factory original circuit has it normally rated protection, and the new component has it's own separate protection. When you run a new circuit off a bus, you run it directly off the bus with it's own breaker/fuse.