lol oh the love we have at css.net Lol we should stop fighting and join in on a single cause... getting me off the comp and working on my car

 

Ahh, networking.


I'm in college right now for computer science. I already completed CISCO CCNA last year. I'm hopefully going into the field as a network admin.

I'm sitting in lecture right now, Programming design and development.
Boring as hell

 

I hated CISCO... they make those online exams so dry...
A+, integrated circuits, and hardware design... that was fun stuff...

 

CISCO was ridiculously easy
I breezed through it.

 

Update:

Someone ask me where I live, I live in Albany, New York.

Also, I "popped" my speakers and they all work, which tells me that none of my speakers are blown.

I can't seem to figure out the problem, the factory HU doesn't work, nor does the Sony.

Is it possible that I could have a bad ground?

This time, lets try and stay on the subject everyone, no more bitchn', lol haha.

 

Drive up here to Syracuse and I'll fix it for ya in no timee

 

I actually am heading up there in 2 weeks. Currently I am student teaching and I went to school at Cortland.

Hopefully by then I will have diagnosed the problem, no luck so far though...

 

Well if you still have the problem I can prob fix it in no time

 

Awesome man, thanks a lot for the offer, I'll keep you updated...

Update:

Plugged my aftermarket unit back in, speakers in rear are still working, but seem faint, front drivers side door is about at 1/4 of the power, while passenger side front door still makes a buzz for 3 seconds then stops, meanwhile the head unit reads failure.

So I tapped a factory speaker into the wiring harness behind the head unit and what do you know, it worked!

Tomorrow I will be re-wiring both front doors with new speaker wire. I have checked the connections many times and everything seems fine, but who knows...

 

Have fun with that.

Wiring through those things are ********

 

I'm in the middle of doing it right now, drill a hole though he molex for the woires from the worst angle, but don't clip one of the other wires, Oh yeah walk in the park, then when your done that, snake your wire through, the tube that looks more like a section of roller coaster. Use a section of coat hanger,
Just a hint, don't actually drill through the molex, just use a small star screwdriver, and turn it until it eats its way through the plastic, oh one more thing heat-shrink and loom are your friends, electrical tape could cause problems as it gets moist inside the door, so make sure you seal the speaker wire up good, unless you like mold ridden wire. Your going to have to splice into the wire due to the stock connections on the speakers, just cut them a few inches back, twist them together with the new wire, soder (option but recomended) and the cover with heat shrink, Use a section of coat hanger to send the wire from the cabin of the car to the inside of the door

 

You going to grad school out here while you're student teaching? I ask because I'm in Admissions at Sage Graduate School. Good luck w/ your issue...

 

As of right now I'm just student teaching, I have 5 years to obtain my masters. My plan is to take a semesester or 2 off after I graduate.

 

do you know how to take off the molex piece?

 

1. I have no idea what a Molex piece is.

2. Problem Solved! I was moving around the wire coming from the HU the goes into the crossover and found that if the wire was in a certain radius of a bolt near the window crank, it was causing the speaker not to work! I just took a different route for the wiring and PROBLEM SOLVED! I still find it weird that even with the insulation from the wire, it would still make a connection to that bolt.

Any ideas why it would do that?