Tupp

Hey fellas....

I was given a 2009 Chevy Cobalt STRIPO from my grandma because she was going to get $0.12 for it on a trade. When I say strippo I mean, manual windows, manual locks, manual trans, 2.2 engine coupe. The only "Upgrades" it has would be AC and a CD player.

So since I a VERY mechanically inclined I figured it would be a great candidate for a bit of modifications to the motor department among a few other things. Id take it and do an LSJ front end swap (by front end I mean the SC that is on those LSJ motors.)

Well before I could do that I had to put a new clutch in it. The car is clean. Super clean just rolled 107K miles and since grama was worried about stains from.... IDK what, coffee, wet fart, _____fill in the blank she had nice seat covers on it so the interior is MINT.

Well I put in the new clutch, fly wheel, pressure plate, new slave cylinder.... the whole 9 yards.

When I got the whole thing back together and bleed the clutch I was leaking fluid from the bottom of the case where the hole is letting you inspect your fly-wheel. I started researching everything and it seems that when I placed the new slave cylinder in there i didnt seat it properly. From what I read it needed to "CLICK" in to place along with bolting in with those stupid torx bits.

Is that correct? Can you think of any other reason that when I hit the clutch pedal it leaks fluid?

I am planning on taking it back apart and investigating but before I do I am turning to the experts (that would be you if you were wondering who the experts were.... lol

I also got another slave cylinder just in case I somehow did some sort of damage to the unit itself.


Now back story, my father is a Trade GM mechanic for 35-37 years with Local 701 and he helped me out so I know i didnt rig **** up.


Any and all advise is welcome. PS.... Glad to meet you all!!!

Cheers,
Tupp

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Yeah sounds like a TOB failure, they are pretty sensitive, if it's not seated flat or bolted down evenly it can pop the seal. Put a new TOB in there and you should be good. The 2.2L ones are pretty resiliant, they are harder to mess up than the LSJ ones but they can be easily damaged since they are plastic.

Tupp

Bottom line i knew it was broke. Gladly the merchant i purchased from on eBay was gracious enough to send me a new one. Well i got that part and today i got to work. I mean after i got off work i went to do my own work.

Well after 6 hours on my own i pulled the entire car apart down to pulling the trans out. It was then i noticed that the TOB had been STUCK in a halfway engaged/disengaged position. Even better it was EFFIN STUCK like that. Ill post a pic in a few.

Now it works like a dream but i want to adjust the clutch release point because i am not happy with it, personall.

Im going to be around here for a while and ill make a formal intro soon but i had to get the important issue posted for hopful advice.

Thank you so much Joe!

Cheers,
Tull

Tupp

Just posting a minor update.

Fixed the clutch release point. Turns out the nut that tightens down on the rod pivot point was about 3 turns short of falling off. Tightened that biach up and BAM... Perfect!

Since that I have completed the following :

Tinted Tails (left the reverse clear)
Lowered on LoTek (More Trouble but not what you may think.... Post Here)
Shorty Intake
Blacked out grills
Painted horizontal trim Plasti Dip Blaze Blue (non rice and looks sweet)
Wired up Alpine 850 Mono Amp with 12"Kicker SoloBarak L7 (Not working, Pending Head Unit)

Ordered
35% Tint
6K 35Watt Digital Slim Balast HID

Hunting
LSJ Swap Parts W/Tune
Gauge Pod Options - Love the behind the wheel ones
Header
Exhaust
Wheels

When I am done I think it will be a stout DD considering I got the car for FREE

Olybaltss

sweet deal man, welcome to the forums. lots of good people, good ****, good knowledge here. make sure you're checking the classifieds too, there's stuff in there all the time.

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

Nice find on the car man! Its a shame how much is involved in taking the trans out. Took me quite a while on my garage floor. Read your post about the strut cap nut being stuck on and the strut freespinning... I cant word it... Had the same issue trying to swap springs on a friends balt. First run we somehow successfully broke the nut loose while holding the strut shaft itself with fricking pliers... Go figure a few months later his 2" lowering springs grenades his struts. This time we werent so lucky and i had to put his crappy struts back on cause i couldnt take the springs out of them. No idea what to do or what else i could have done cause we tried a lot of ideas LOL