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Installing an aftermarket alarm system.

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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #1  
Double T's Avatar
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Installing an aftermarket alarm system.

I just bought an aftermarket alarm system and I need some help. The instructions say to mount the siren under the hood somewhere but I don't have a clue how to run the wires through the firewall. There aren't any extra holes to run wires through. I guess that's the way it is with new cars since the idea is to reduce cabin noise. Not only that but I have to tap into the primary iginition power, the starter motor wire ( I don't know how this differs from the primary ignition power), the parking light (I think it's an orange colored wire but I will need someone to confirm that for me), and the horn. I have no idea what color these wires are. I also have to tap into something called a "negatively charged momentary switch." It's for an anti hi-jack trigger wire.

The only thing I've done so far is attach the black wire to ground. It says to attach the red wire (the main power source) to the positive battery terminal. Does that mean I have to run it through the firewall and into the engine compartment? Or can I run it into the trunk and connect it to the actual battery? or is there another way I can get power? Any help at all would be great.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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You can run that + power wire to the battery or inside the engine compartment is a + terminal you can attach it too. Theres probably other options as far as maybe using the fuse box, but I dont know if that would have enough power, im not sure.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 09:32 PM
  #3  
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
firewall

yeah, I'm aware of the positive terminal under the hood but the problem is getting to it. I dont' know how to run wires through the firewall. It would be more conveniant since it's closer but I will run the wires to the actual battery if I have to.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 10:22 PM
  #4  
iLLmaTic3s's Avatar
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do u need the wiring diagram for our car for a aftermarket alarm system?i got it..want me to post?
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 02:17 PM
  #5  
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From: houma, Louisiana
i DO NOT recommend you doing this alarm if you are not familiar with alarms.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 10:51 PM
  #6  
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
power door locks

actually that diagram helped very much!! the only thing I can't get to work yet is the aftermarket power door locks. I thought this would be the easiest part but there is only 1 lock wire and 1 unlock wire coming out of the alarm unit. There should be 2 pairs of these wires (1 for each door). What do I do here?
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 11:14 PM
  #7  
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From: Akron, OH
hmmm... i believe you have to use a "diode isolation"...not sure compeltly how though... took my viper 791 4 days to get wired in... professionally and me helping.... they aren't the simplest wire setups in the world.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 11:22 PM
  #8  
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
relays

can I use a relay by any chance?
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 04:09 PM
  #9  
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From: houma, Louisiana
no... the door locks have to be done through seperate resistors... i beleive they are a 1500ohm and a 1100ohm maybe... i dont have the sheet with me...
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #10  
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From: Akron, OH
even with a relay u need to isolate with resistors as said above... that was one of the problems i had.... if you don't you may trigger your theft system and won't be able to start it even with the key...that's the problem i had..... yeah u need to get the wiring diagrams and resistor specs...it would save you time. i know we ended up using 4 relays and a few resistors...lol....
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:37 PM
  #11  
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
omg

OMG!!! 4 RELAYS??? How much did all this end up costing you?? This was for a 2 door car right? It's gonna be hard for me to find someone to do this for me because a lot of places don't do partial installations.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 02:38 AM
  #12  
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relays are cheap man... i usually get about 20 at a time from the local electronics store... there just over $1 each... (i think like $1.25 or something...)
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 04:36 AM
  #13  
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can you post the wiring diagram??
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 02:35 PM
  #14  
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From: houma, Louisiana
DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - CHEVROLET / COBALT / 2006 / Remote Start


[PRINT THIS PAGE]


12volts red/black (50A) + BCM, C3, pin D1
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Starter yellow (not for remote start) - PCM, blue plug, pin 48, 46 or 56
Notes: The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is on the driver side fender, in front of the underhood fuse block.

Starter wire is not required for remote start. When the vehicle sees that the ignition wire has voltage and the accessory wire lose voltage, it automatically cranks the starter.
Second Starter N/A
Ignition yellow + ign harn or BCM, C4, pin D3
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Second Ignition see DirectFax document 1606
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory brown + ign harn or BCM, C4, pin C8
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Second Accessory N/A
Keysense see DirectFax document 1606
Power Lock white - driver kick or BCM, C1, pin 7
Notes: Lock is a straight negative trigger. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 1500 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Power Unlock same as power lock wire
Lock Motor gray 5wi driver kick or BCM, C3, pin A4
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Unlock Motor tan 5wi driver kick or BCM, C3, pin B1
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Parking Lights+ brown + driver kick or BCM, C3, pin A7
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Parking Lights- brown/white - switch or BCM, C2, pin 5
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Hazards white - switch or BCM, C2, pin 9
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Turn Signal(L) lt. blue (F), yellow (R) + BCM, C1, pin 35 and C3, pin A9
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Turn Signal(R) dk. blue (F), dk. green (R) + BCM, C1, pin 17 and C3, pin A12
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Reverse Light lt. green + driver kick, harness to rear
Door Trigger see notes - each kick or BCM, C1
Notes: The LF door is gray/black in pin 22. The RF door is tan/white in pin 19. The LR door is lt. blue/black in pin 1. The RR door is lt. green/black in pin 20. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.

The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Dome Supervision gray - BCM, C3, pin A10
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Trunk/Hatch Pin orange/black - BCM, C1, pin 55
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release tan - switch or BCM, C2, pin 10
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm factory remote only
Factory Alarm Disarm factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock with ignition and Passkey
Tachometer NOT pink or pink/black ac any fuel injector
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire lt. blue + switch or BCM, C2, pin 54
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Parking Brake lt. blue - switch or BCM, C1, pin 14
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Horn Trigger tan - switch or BCM, C2, pin 14
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is part of the fuse/relay box on the front passenger side of the center console. It has the following connectors: C1-72 pin gray plug, C2-72 pin gray plug, C3-41 pin red plug, and C4-68 pin lt. gray plug.
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
PASS-Key III+
Part #: 556UW
Alternate Part1 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models.
Interface Module: Category:
Door Lock Interface Required:
Yes Type:
Multiplex
Part #: 456LW
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Relay Type:
Crank Relay Location:
Engine compartment fusebox, Driver side
Part #: 6402A




This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 02:38 PM
  #15  
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From: Mo-town, WV
Originally Posted by aznpariah
hmmm... i believe you have to use a "diode isolation"...not sure compeltly how though... took my viper 791 4 days to get wired in... professionally and me helping.... they aren't the simplest wire setups in the world.
Then somone didn't know what they were doing in the least. I have Cobalts down to a science. Takes under 2 hours for a full remote start/keyless entry/alarm system. I've never had a car take 4 days. Lol.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #16  
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From: houma, Louisiana
four days!?!?!? wow... i didnt read that earlier... thats not a shop id be going back to lol
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 02:46 PM
  #17  
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From: Mo-town, WV
Originally Posted by Double T
can I use a relay by any chance?
Even better than relays you can use a Directed 456L that will learn the lock resistances and cost you about the same price as 4 relays and two diodes and two resistors.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:08 PM
  #18  
Double T's Avatar
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
thanks a lot!!! I found one on ebay hopefully it will work for me!
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 07:21 PM
  #19  
aznpariah's Avatar
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From: Akron, OH
yeah it was his first car that had as complicated wiring as that... 200 bucks total not bad.... i had some other sensors wired in too.... wired in a started disable switch myself hood switch and a saftey switch for the remote start.... i don't even think it's legal here to have remote start in a stick car.... but he was the only one that would do it around here that would also back his work.... works great too...but yeah i probally wont be going back...lol
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:33 PM
  #20  
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From: Cleveland, Oh
Originally Posted by aznpariah
yeah it was his first car that had as complicated wiring as that... 200 bucks total not bad.... i had some other sensors wired in too.... wired in a started disable switch myself hood switch and a saftey switch for the remote start.... i don't even think it's legal here to have remote start in a stick car.... but he was the only one that would do it around here that would also back his work.... works great too...but yeah i probally wont be going back...lol

It is legal in Ohio to have a remote start on manual transmissions. They have to be the proper ones though. Can't be a normal one for a automatic made to work on a manual. I see you live in Akron, so you have heard of Century 2000 then right?? I used to be an installer there years ago..
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 02:49 AM
  #21  
EmperorJJ1's Avatar
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From: OR
proper ones? can you post a link?
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